robjay

I have mounted everything nice and snug, and have a fair idea on what I'm doing however like I said I dont know which wire is which speaker and which wire is power /gnd/ign etc due to the fact that there are no Nissan wiring diagrams that match these what should be factory plugs. No I'm not soldering - crimping instead. Otherwise I will need to get a multimeter & do some testing.

the ripped coax is just to the top left facing almost head on... oops. as you can see I did have a few frustrating moments.

Oh I think that the big connector maps all the speakers out as in 8 lines map out 4 speakers. But the rest I just am not game enough to trial &error.. Theres a pink wire out there as well as what looks like coax antenna which I have accidentally ripped - also whats not clear is that there is a fused line which I think is the 12v battery? All in all too risky to just give it a go n see..

Hi Team r34 2000 audio wiring example help needed, Yes I have searched for this and anything that came close to my wiring did not match some wires. I need to map the r34audiowiring photo to the targetjvc wiring photo. The thing is I did spend hours searching for the wiring diagram and found some things that looked promising but when looked at closely some pins were missing in places they should have been and the colours did not match up. I was once game to trial and error but not any more, certainly on my 180sx I have done this a few times with no dramas but this setup is far more mismatched and undocumented. Hope someone can do me a translation I would be very very happy this weekend. The only thing I can get for sure is the brown and light brown inner pair on the bigger connector is a speaker.

BP Ultimate 98! I also filled up with Vortex on a stock r34 - definitely noticable. I would argue that you may not notice it if you drive your car ><30% throttle then yes it might be all the same. But I tell you once boost comes on and you wonder -- hmmmm I remember there being a bit more response & torque.. I once had to fill 95octane, I swear one day in the CBD - approx nov 2010 3 different servos had 98 out of service - I tell you this is the time I started believeing in the dodgy wednesday outof service policies where some servos take 98 out of service. Under no circumstance would I ever use 95 but I was so low I had no choice. And hence 95 octane made the car feel like a 2ton hiace van.

Ok thanks guys yes a general thread would be awesome. What I did was browse through some dyno graphs and with bb bearing turbo being my preference I thought an ultimate 300rw kw is a good aim. Ok but not on a stock motor. So to get going at bare minimum: I'm not interested in any great immediate power gains if any at all just to get the foot in the mod space with the most important bit - in a way doing it in reverse if you like. So far gt3540 dump pipe and external wastegate and run at 12psi or whatever the injectors can handle. I have apexi neo fuel controller already installed.

Hi All, Looging to upsize my stock r34gtt to a GT3582r-iw also icluding fmic and 3" exhaust Can someone give me a quick pros & cons of trbine trim size check this link -http://www.turbotech.com.au/turboproducts_listing.ews?turboproducts.ewdBrand=1&turboproducts.ewdBrand_Clasification=8 Im in perth.. are these prices ok? any recomendation to go elsewhere for cheaper. Is this bolt on? I doubt it is. What else to I need to do just to get it in and running, not intereseted in hi kw just want it in bare minimum and working.

r34gtt 85k km's Hi Wacky, I am freaking out. I think I have the same issue on my r34 gtt. The car sounds like a bit like a tractor valves noisy (although not as bad as in the vids) are noisy and there seems to be something like a piston slap noise. Yes it seems to improve once the car warms up but if you listen very very carefully the dull smacking sound is still there. Yes also near the top right, kind of like a whining noise somewhat uneven noise near the water pump and belts. This all started after a service, oil oil filter - unknown oil and belts (not timing belt, maybe yes I dont think actualy) Anyway the belts were slipping on cold start, squeaking and whining for about 5 sec, I had them adjusted and squeak is no more. At first I thought it was oil, I was so freaking out I decided to change my own oil. Previously they overfilled it, I just changed it using Nulon 15 50 synth to haf between full and empty - went for a romp but the valve tapping tractor noise seems to have gotten worse! OMG!! The thing is tell me exactly what you had replaced, I'm in Perth and just need to confirm.. Is it the whole water pump? and timing belt? you suggested genuine Nissan or I'd say stronger after market timing belt- why not..?

Owned a 180sx auto for a number of years. Stock 180 is not anything special, now own an r34 gtt - r34 wins hands down stock for stock (not sure about r33) Found that the 180sx factory turbo prone to failure, broke it in 6 months or so. Put some mods in, 3" exhaust, t28 and manual conversion (lightened flywheel) then it will haul ass & 180rwkw At this point the car is way too tail happy and does not handle corners - in fact even stock 180, the first thing I did was loose tail up a curb. My r34 though has more power and yet It's grip is inspiring and loss of traction is forgiving.

Great thanks, I'm in Coburn will go out of my way for a good opinion.

Hi Folks, I have just had a service at **PM ME FOR NAME**, I know .. yeah I know .. fark what a mistake. Firstly, my front pads were worn and they slapped on some new ones mistake no 1. Should have asked what they were, I think they are bendix metallic and now seem to chew through my rotors and appear to be scorching them (both sides). Any ideas as to why my rotors show burn marks in the center other than aggressive stopping which I do but I've done this in the past and not noticed any rotor scorching. I noticed the young kids doing the work, fine - give em benefit of the doubt. I took my car home and to my shock horror I hear this rattling noise as if a piece of metal was tumbling inside my wheel!! I race back and guess what the clip that holds the pad in place fell out. Ok so fine its back but now!!! every now and again I hear a click / movement in my front right sounds almost like either a) caliper not releasing properly b) pad shifting into place due to looser or F#$% up clip/clips c) this is very very hard to reproduce as it seems to happen after some light driving or cornering and then medium application of the breaks d) Got angry at the a few times - have taken it back twice now and no resolution.. about to be even more angry if I find that the pads are not snug fit into the caliper assembly (is this even possible?) So the story goes on, at the same time I had my belts replaced, at this I was concerned and questioned them as to whether they could source compatible belts for r34.. Yes yet another mistake I know.. And the final mistake the oil change. So given the belts and oil change, my car now sounds like a tractor. The oil seems to take a long time to reach decent temps, I could drive 5kms and oil temp will be below 70c mark. Then my impression is after about 1 km from cold start - I usually stop at the folks and engine sounds a total tractor tapping & thumping old worn engine noise (this engine 82k kms with NO! mods and previously super smooth) Now after a decent romp 10km and up to normal temps 85 - 90c it seems to sound average and not relay unusual. Then after a hard run, pull over and listen to the idle - again tractor tapping car seems to struggle to keep a confident idle. So I am completely dumb for going to ***PM ME FOR NAME*** yes, I get what I pay for 130$ service fark!! Anyway can any can someone put me at ease that my engine isn't getting permadamage... I suspect they stuffed up my belts/ timing as the engine sound and dynamics feel different from before. And also where can I go SOR without getting stuffed around and ripped off, at this moment my last resort is genuine Nissan service but i know that will cost big ...

Hi All, I'm thinking of geting this Saber IC http://www.modyourcar.com.au/saber-r-spec-...2-r33-r34-p5145 Size is a whoping 780x300x80 and they say airbox and batery is retained (probably not the core size) Anyone fit ths in their r34gtt Also compared to this which is better nicer fit HDI IC http://www.modyourcar.com.au/hdi-gt-spec-i...gts-r3234-p6247 Any info & pics would be great. Also I'm most worried about cutting the fan and engine bay, anny comments on the legality & resale value issues Ample feedback much apreciated. Rob

I meant FAN not can ...

Thanks to all, at this stage I am going to be specific about IC that doenst require cutting up can / metal bits. I have decided to pay more to get it right the first time.

Can you pos the install instructions, it will answer many questions.

Thanks Steve, good post. Also what size is the Blitz core.

Hi All, I'm in need of an inercooler for my r34, and I know its a very general and too hard a question. What I'm looking for most of all is an IC that will require no cutting into fan or cutting bigger holes in places if at all possible. As an example the MonstA cooler on ebay although good in size and price and I'm not fussed that its no brand item, from googling around to see how it gets installed you would have to butcher quite a bit. The Greddy although great is way too expensive I do not believe in spending over 800aud What I'm asking is of all r34 owners, how hard easy was it to fit your IC and what you / they did to make it fit and also size of IC. Of course we all want a 100mm thick core but if that means doing a face transplant on the car then I will pass on that. As far as the law what was the worst experience anyone has had that could be blamed on the IC.

Will try this... Also mad82 yeh I found the rubber grommet you speaking of... but did not realise it comes out where the wheel is and taking of wheel n cover is a pain maybe too hard for at atm... Btw.. how hard is it to replace the stock boost gauge in dash with after market.

Hi ... simple and strainght to the point how on the heck do you feed a boost line through the firewall on an r34 it is hell hard, tried to dismantle fuse box and bits n pices there to try and find a way.. no sir, its just hard. tried to poke through supporting wires/ coat hanger through holes that looked like they might go through to the other side. good news... ran the line via the left drivers pillar under bonnet for now. set up with a manual bleed valve set to 10psi the car drives noticeably harder. stuffed up a bit tho... spiked n overboosted past 15 psi while seting up fark!!!! had audiable pinging... but luckily nothing terminal.. So is there way a sure and proven way to run a damn boost line through firewall? I can now see the value of having an electronic boost controller.... am I right in saying that ebc could keep boost spikes and creep to a minimal level and this way i could have a reliable 14psi? or is this not recommended on a standard r34 turbo - if so what is a safe limit. I have tried 13psi but the thing spikes dangerously, even at 12 - spikes out to 14 but 10psi seems to limit spikes to about 11.5 which I'm happy with for now.

Hi guys how much should a typical apexi 300x400 IC cost to buy & install

No mods at all.

is 14 too lean in this situation? the actual data: psi speed a/f lambda petrol 1.5 70 14.4 .99 1.5 80 14.4 .99 4.3 90 13.6 .93 6.2 100 11.9 .82 8.2 110 11.4 .78 8.3 120 10.9 .75 8.2 130 10.3 .70 8.0 140 10.2 .70 7.8 150 10.0 .69 7.6 160 10.0 .69

Ok this looks plausible.. I'm thinking along the lines of a touch screen and windows media center ... maybe asking a too much lol.. Hard part is interfacing the PC to engine telemetry, how would one actually tap into the cars ecu.

Cool, could you point me to some links on what it can do and looks like / where to get it. Maybe a photo of your own setup?

Hi all, need a bit of guidance. Had my newly acquired r34 gtt auto dyno'd and made 145kw at the wheels - is this a bit low for a NEO engine? Health check revealed nothing bad accept for the fuel mixture was rich, the dyno mechanic explained that the mixture should be around 10 to 11 throughout the run but by car pretty much shot to 14 as soon as boos came on not sure what this means apart from that its thirsty. Also psi peaked early at 9psi but dropped off to 7 for atleast 1/2 the curve due to rich mixture. Not as smooth a power curve as I hoped for form a stock setup. He then suggested to get an apexi afc.. I think its now called a superafc. Question is what is the best product out there as far as tuning air/fuel maps for a skyline r34.. and if I do decide to get serious would I be better of getting an entire engine management unit such as power FC. I have a fair idea of the concepts and theories behind afc & tuning but not familiar with what products are best matched for skylines & in particular the neo rb25 I'm serious about a full ecu, price is not really an issue but I've heard bad stories about lack of experience out there to tune neo's and high knock counts as a result of going custom. Plus I've seen youtube videos of a 10,000 rpm skyline is this really possible - I would like to one day pursue an engine build that has ability to hit 8 to 9 k rpm, for simplicities sake what would it take to make a rock solid 8000 rpm rb25, is this foolish? .. would it be better to go high torque low rpm What thoughts are there around having a large high lag turbo plus a supercharger to make up for the lag down low , has anyone tried this?