tiberis

i don't mean to be rude, but you must be blind or something (something being someone has done some weird wiring in your car) there is only 1 blue relay in the boot next to the fuses, as shown in this handy pic below: i just took this photo like 5 mins ago, and verified by unplugging it that i didn't hear my fuel pump. if you don't have this relay, i would say someone has done some weird stuff to your wiring and these forums can't help you that much.

not sure about ground wire, but the control box for it is a black box behind your glove box and to the left. there will also be the sensor (to tell it to lock/ unlock) in the drivers door, so take the trim off and have a look in there.

there shouldn't be any need for a 'calibration' as such for the CAS. just get another one off the forums/ a wrecker and place it on (it has a key on the shaft so it will only go on one way) and then line it up as close as you can to how the old one was. then make sure you check your timing!

do they require other lights to be on? (like parkers or something because i;ve seen that in a car i had before) otherwise it must be something in the control or wiring. do all the other controls on your stalk work fine? like low and high beam etc etc? pull out a globe, turn on the fog lights and measure the voltage at the socket without the globes. if there is no voltage at all then have a closer look at the control stalk. if there is voltage but when you plug the globe in it doesn't light up then something has gone high impedance (ie a switch or contact somewhere has a build up of carbon and is really high resistance) i made a write up of how to fix that for the 180sx/ silvias because it was a common problem with high beam (write up is here) hope this points you in the right direction.

now i understand that my car may be different from yours (S1 as opposed to S2) but in the boot near the fuses in there, there was 1 relay, which i assumed to be the one for the fuel pump (why run wires all the way to the front and back again when they can just put the relay back there). may haps just double check behind the lining in the boot for that relay? it was a blue one from memory and yeah, mounted right next to the fuses. i'll have another look at my car tonight if nobody else can help you find it.

Look closer... the bolt is UNDER the banjo bolt for the turbo.

i can't imagine anything needs to be changed if it's all working ok. Brushes can wear out though. my alternator in my R33 died the other week (regulator shat its self) and the brushes in it looked pretty good (car is 17 years old and 150,000Kms on the clock) only time i've seen worn brushes was on my 1984 alfa 33, which had done like 270,000Kms. so unless your car is rather old or has travelled quite far for it's age, i wouldn't really bother too much with it.

The control box for the door locks in the R33 should be a small black box hidden behind the glove box. so if you take out your glove box and take off the plastic panel, it should be just to the left from memory. i would guess looking for loose connections, although i do remember mine having some weird fancy plug that didn't look like it could come loose, but at least it's somewhere for you to start looking.

make sure you don't destroy your turbo if you have the stock one. they have a ceramic exhaust wheel and if you push them too hard they can shatter. i wouldn't go above 10psi if you want to run it reliably day in, day out.

while the car is running put a multimeter across the battery and read the voltage. it should be around 13.5V. if it's less then alternator isn't working properly, if it's more then regulator isn't working properly (which is part of the alternator anyways).

replaced alternator, haven't taken the car for a run yet, but it started ok and was running fine for like 5-10mins it was also charging the battery which is a good sign. just to note, there was a whining kind of noise which must have been from the alternator (i thought it was air related so i didn't think much of it) which i think one of the diodes in the rectifier have died hence the drawing current as it is now short circuiting through that diode. will update with final result soon. am still thinking that the whole aircon involvement was coincidence.

right... well i noticed the spark from the lead which is bolted near the back, which i believe is output (ie, to the battery). not sure about the alternator having power from somewhere else and being excited... i pulled out every fuse and relay in that car... ones in the boot, ones behind the kick panel and ones in the engine bay. i also undid all the plugs near the fuses in the boot (just in case) so the only place getting power was that connection point near the relays in the engine bay... so unless there is some other hidden relay somewhere else in the car... hopefully i can get an alternator tomorrow and confirm that it was at fault... otherwise i will end up going insane trying to track this problem down.

well, i was plugging and unplugging the relay for the clutch... so it should have been clicking on and off... or when i was connecting and disconnecting the battery. with the engine off it's pretty easy to hear anyways. but yes, the plug for it is on top of the compressor, so you need to reach under the power steering pump and fumble blindly for a bit either way, going to source a working alternator and go from there.

ok, just for reference in case anybody else ends up searching for the same problem.... because i believe i have found it! i started unplugging/ disconnecting things that connect to the main loom and use +ive... disconnected the starter motor, but that changed nothing. but then as i took off the alternator, i saw sparks... once fully disconnected, current draw was 0. so apparently my alternator is screwed... but i;ve not seen one die like this before. i will try taking it apart later and if i find more info i will post it here for future reference to others.

fog lamps are turned off (and fuse is pulled) air con is disabled (no fuse or relay) as it was leaking anyways. i was thinking aircon clutch, but yeah, i don't hear it. thanks for the ideas guys, but no dice

Hey Guys, Got something to rattle your brains here... i'll give you the back story though it may be unrelated... on monday morning i got my air con regassed, it seemed to work fine. drove car for 10mins, stopped it for 5, got back in and drove for 15 mins to uni and everything seemed fine, air con was working. i was at work at uni for like 5 or 6 hours. come back to my car and it wont start, battery is half dead (lights on dash come up and it clicks). so i get it jump started from a friend. i wait there idling for a bit. it all seems fine, then the engine revs drop a bit, the hicas light comes on, then the engine dies. i jump it again but the same happens again. i then disconnect the relay for the air con (thinking it's something to do with that) i manage to drive it 10 mins home, but after i turn it off, i can't start it again, battery is dead. i then get my house mates car to charge my battery for 10 mins, start mine up drive to petrol station, fill up, it starts again so i drive around for another 15 mins on roe hwy (thinking it would help charge the batt having the higher revs). i get home, park car, then this morning battery is completely dead again. now, here is the confusing part.... i measure the current draw using a charged battery, and it says ~3.5-4A and nothing is on, keys aren't even in the IGN barrel. so i start removing fuses to try and track what is eating the power... i have now removed every fuse i can find (engine bay, driver's kick panel, near battery in boot) and it's still drawing ~3.5-4A!!!! so has anyone every heard of something like this? or know anything else i can check? (for reference, car is a 93 R33 4 door with RB25DET, pretty much no mods (no fancy alarm or other circuits wired in)).

could be ECU thinks engine is cold and goes into high idle mode. check water temp sensors. check AAC for leaks/ if anything changed there.

from what i gathered, those characters are 点 and 検 (hopefully they display properly on your screen...) but either way, they translate into "point" and "search" respectively... but when combined they mean: 1. inspection 2. checking 3. examination so it may well be just a reminder for servicing/ checking/ maintenance on the vehicle. as for one staying on, is there a reset button for it? i noticed a little set of holes near the LEDs, maybe you poke it and it resets? either way... those crazy japs...

Is it a knock sound or a kind of a tick sound? if it's a ticking, it might just be the lifters, in which case it's not really an issue. possibly having a recording would help, as well some supporting info (how long has it done this? have you changed anything recently?)

yeah, +1 for having the VIN number match up with my nissan build number. Just for reference, the Nissan plate build code is a real code for a R33 skyline built in Jan '95, and it is a manual turbo. so all that checks out... but it's up to you if you want to have a car with that history... i know that my R33 has had a small bit of a front end already (noticed that the front bumper was different and that some of the mounts for the head lights were cracked) but i got the car for cheap so it didn't bother me that much (like, half the price).

Just give the bolts a bit of a turn (just so they feel firm, no need to over-tighten) and clean up the area where they are leaking. over the next few days or week, have a look back, if its still leaking then you will need a new rocker cover gasket as the old one has gone hard and is not sealing anymore. i just changed my gasket, cost around $100 for both sides from Nissan, had it changed in one afternoon. changing the rocker cover gaskets isn't that hard, would only take 1-2 hours for someone with little mechanical/ car experience. just don't forget to have a look at the half-moons at the rear of the head if they need replacing as well. though they normally seem fine and a bit of gasket goo and they will seal up perfectly again.

^^^ thats what i believe as well. i stay away from certain stations, (known card scams, known dodgy fuel) but apart from that i just go for the cheapest. and with that, i can't believe your guys over east didn't jump on the FuelWatch bandwagon... it's such a useful tool. every day i get a list of the cheapest places to pick up 98 from my house to work, then i just stop off at which i need to, so i'm always getting the cheapest

+1 for 65L. i've put in more than 55L before when filling up. and yeah, the gauge in the dash isn't the most accurate thing in the world. you can go past the "E" marking without too much issues if you need to. you should still have ~10L left at this stage. likewise, when i fill up it actually goes a bit above the "F" mark. also note that the tilt of the vehicle can affect the reading as the fuel moves about.

No probs. @Arthur: Yep, that solenoid can be removed if you want. it serves no purpose any more. Also, i have the Nissan FAST images that show the vacuum hoses for the canister, but i can't upload them to my website right now. i may add them later to this post just for completeness. (for the time being i have PM'd them to you)

It's part of the stock boost control system. at the other end is the control solenoid. if you have a manual or electronic boost controller all you need to do is remove it/ block it so it's not letting air in or out. if you don't have a boost controller, then it's supposed to be hooked up to various places in the intake system. from the solenoid, one pipe should go to intake pipe after filter but before turbo. the other pipe should go to a T-piece and connect to wastegate actuator and to just after the turbo (where it can see pressure/ boost). i might be able to find a drawing of what i mean if you need it.