Jobi

Problem is that even after having grinded the block with my Dremel tool I could barely see the crack. 😞 There is no drip until you build pressure in the system. I've put a 0.9bar rad cap so far. Wonder if a lower pressure cap exists...

Hello, Got pics (wanna be sure they are a direct fit)? Sold with connectors?

Crack is on the intake side, between cyl 4 and 5. I removed the intake plenum, drained coolant, removed paint, sanded the block, apply weld (https://sader.fr/produits/epoxy-repare-metal) and let it settle 48h before refilling the coolant. It worked. But I guess 550+ bhp and cusco front diff is too much for my block... That's why I'm now thinking of Steelseal. Have you tried chemiweld on cracked blocks?

Tried JB weld. Worked great...for a while. Last sunday I switched the car from mid fun to max fun mode (1.7bar boost) and thrashed the car a lil' bit on nice roads. "Hello, the leak is back!" lol Or not so lol actually...

Hello, I finally completed the rebuold of my R33 after having spent 10 years on other projects. I'm running circa 550/600bhp, with many mods on the engine (forged, cams, twin 2530s, etc.) and on the car (Cusco diffs, brakes, Ohlins, etc.). After only 1000miles, I now have a slight cooland leak. I tracked it down and...bingo, I have a crack in the block. I thought for that amount of power it would be ok but facts prove that...errr...no. I'm kinda gutted and I'm now saving for a brand new block, 86mm CP pistons (to keep cylinder walls as thick as possible) and a PRP brace. Anyway, in the mean time, I'd like to keep using the car and have read one or two good stories about SteelSeal for that kind of problem. Has anyone ever given it a try?

Hell yeah, done a search... But I only found out that pistons skirts were hitting squirters because of the lack of notch. It seems that by modifying the squirters, you can make Mahle pistons fit without doing a custom notch on their skirts. But I haven't found extra information on the above mentioned modification, or pictures... If you have (or if you have a link), it would really help me. Thx!

Hi, I'm thinking of fitting Mahle pistons in my RB26, but I've been told they required modifications to the oil squirters to clear piston skirts. Can someone tell me more about this, or explain me how much of a hassle this modification is? Thx!

I've used the search function, but I've missed this thread... Thx! So bascially, 3.25ish thou clearance should be ok. Any opinion on the skirt coating now? I've read that the coating thickness shouldn't be considered when calculating the piston to wall clearance. Anyone could confirm?

Hi, I'm about to buy a set of forged 86.5mm CP Pistons (with their nitrided rings). I've also planed to go for their skirt coating option (any opinions on that BTW?). I've been told the advised clearance was 3.5 thousands of piston to wall clearance. It seems quite a lot for me (would have expected 3 thousands) and I'm very afraid of ending up with audible piston slap. Have you guys already experienced that? Have you tried tighter clearance (3 thou or less) with those pistons? If so, have you seen any side effects on the long term? Thx for help! Jon

Willing to ship overseas?

+1

I know...but I can't find this information for Greddy studs...

Yeah, ARP and Jun are the same. Few years ago, when I bought my Jun head studs kit for my GTI-R, I was surprised to see ARP written on the studs when I opened the package!! I'll check the length of my Greddy studs. Do you have std specs so that I can see if they have stretched a lot?

Thx for the info! You are using them too? Happy with them?

Hi, I'm currently rebuilding my RB26. It was pushing 570hp (@fly) and was sadly not perfectly mapped (first time I buy a tuned car instead of doing everything myself...never again). So I ended up melting #1 piston. So it's time for a rebuild with forged internals and few extras... Anyway, the engine had only covered 10,000 miles before failure, and it was fitted with Greddy head and main studs. I've been told I could reuse them without any problem. What do you guys think about that? Is there also someone here who has the tightening specs for Greddy head studs? It would help me A LOT. Thx for help!! Jon

Pistons still available? Would you ship them to France?

Ok, thx for explaination. What about the oil return galeries?

No need of the p24: I found it. But having the RB26 D-Jetro default map would really help me as it would allow me to define my base map while my car is in bits... (i.e. I can't connect my PFC at the moment)

Thx a lot for the information. So if I got this right, if you fill the main fuel injection table with "1", you should be able to run 14.7ish all over the map. And if not, you should proceed to minor mods in the base fuel map in order to get 14.7 afr (at least in part throttle). And only after that step, mods to the main fuel table should begin. Am I right? (oh, and do you have the p24 they say to refer to?)

Nice engine! Congrats'. How do you cool down your spacer plate area? Is the space between plate and sleeves filled with coolant?

Hi everyone, First of all, a huge "thank you" Paul for what you've done: great FAQ! I have a question: I'm used to tune L-Jetro PFCs, and I'll soon have to tune my first D-Jetro. I noticed there's an extra fuel map called "base map" which seems to be tuned. Can someone tell me what is that map for? Oh, and BTW, is there someone here who has the default std map of a RB26DETT D-Jetro (R33)? Thx!