Iceman22

It have cost me 650$ (USD) so far, it was used but in good condition, no shaft play at all. I think it was worth it, I couldn't just buy a used stock turbo again, it wouldn't last much the way Im driving the car on the track... A new aftermarket turbo with high quality would probably cost twice, and I can't afford that ATM... The additional cost should not be to high to make it fit though.

Ok thanks for your information, does not look so hard when you say it.. I will not run high boost at the beginning, I will stick to 15psi until I get tune-able ecu, right now I'm using stage1 tomei ecu. Previous owner told me it would run 20psi fine (maybe a bit more) if the engine is properly tuned, I guess it's rated around 400-450HP max.

Hello. Last time I was on the track the stock turbo gave up, the exhaust fan suddenly decided to disappear in the air.. So I bought a rare turbo which comes originally from Japan, it's called IHI TURBO RHC6, apparently it's the same as a APEXI RX6 turbo. Now, the seller told me it's bolt-on turbo for the rb25det, but unfortunately it isn't. So I really don't know where I should start looking for the parts I need. 1. The exhaust side of the turbo. The flange is bigger, So I need a turbo outlet which will match.Do I need a new turbo outlet, or will a adapter be good ? 2. Not sure what's it called exactly. The stock turbo have a flange that is formed like a triangle, and the other is round, so I can not use the stock pipe. 3. The air intake is bigger, so I can not use the stock tube. 4. The water cooling pipes does not fit anymore, change to tubes ? Would appreciate to get some help locating where It's possible to get this parts I need. I can only find stock parts, but I guess there are some secret places I don't know off Here are some pictures... Stock triangle flange, and the other circle The new flange and the old gasket..

Thanks for the replies, now I finally know what to do when talking about upgrades for the car. I see, here I live I only know about two workshops that tune ECU's, I know they do the powerFC but I doubt they do these you meantion, but I have to ask ... thanks for the tip. Norway... snow is soon gone, and drift season is soon starting, so would be fun to get more power, even though 300hp is enough.

Ok thanks for the info, now I consider too cancel my order on the turbo until I get a larger wallet ... Buying cheap parts that is not good for this car is not a option for me, will regret it anyways later. (have done it and will never do it again) Last question, how much HP could I achieve with this garrett turbo with stock ecu, and stock injectors, without risk to damage the engine? Probably around 400hp max ?

Ok... So what would you recommend instead of the Nistune? I know that the apexi power FC is a good choice already, but isn't it a other alternative that is good for less price ? I found a TOMEI stage1 ecu for a good price, but not sure if it can be retuned for my setup..

Lol, now you are making fun of me already? I'm sorry that the question is a bit lame, but its hard to get professional answer regarding my question. I'm not a troll, and about the bee R, I have seen different opinions about it, and I will only use it with low setting (short ignition cut) for not risk damaging anything. Back to the topic, would you guys recommend to use the Nistune tuning suite, and let the local dealer tune it ?

Hello. I found out that the RB25DET engine from the R33 would handle just fine up to 500HP with stock internals. I have ordered a Garett E50 turbokit (including ex wastegate and aftermarket manifold) which I will install in few weeks. I'm aiming to reach 450-500HP (less for rwhp) Would this be possible with the stock nissan ECU without risk to damage the engine? Or do I need to upgrade the ecu and get it remapped ? Thanks in advance. Car spec: Rebuild engine not long ago Stock head gasket CP Forged pistons (stock bore size) 3" exhaust + decat Induction kit + blow off Aftermarket intercooler, and oil cooler GTR fuel pump Probably got aftermarket clutch Bee R rev limiter

Yeah, the car is smoking wrong wheel Hopefully next time I will get photos of the rear wheels smoking like hell

Few more pics from Norway (newbeginner in drifting this year) and a picture from may..

Engine run on 5 cylinders, so I assume the engine were overhault? If you think it is fuel, and spark, then I would check if it is compression on all the cylinders.

Wow, I actually considered one time to drive with a silencer on the drifting track, since the "guard" measured I had around 102db noise, while 100 is maximum allowed. But he gave me one chance and let me drive without it. So I could damage the engine if I had drive with the silencer ? I sometimes drive with the silencer on the motorway, and I can feel the powerloss, and engine making lesser sound, but it still plenty of power.

The problem is now finnaly solved. After installing new valve on the 5th cyl, all the six cylinder were running. At first I took it for a long run, and the day after drifted with it on the track for a hour. Today morning I checked the oil and it barely used any So I hope all the cylinders will last for many years in the future without needing to rebuilding it again (CP forged pistons) Thanks for all the help everyone..

I found what the problem was today. One valve on the intake side is not sealing properly, probably because it's bent, even though it's not visible when looking on it. I added some fuel on the intake side and it went through the valve when it was "closed", while the other valves were not letting through any fuel. So hopefully someone can fix the bent valve tomorow, looks like buying new valves are quite uncommon.

I tried turning the engine around with the head on today (cam belt was off). Then I seated a spark plug on each cylinder (one at a time) and tried to see if there were any difference when turning the engine around. I could feel that there were compression on 5 of the cylinders (more strenght needed when turning), but on cylinder #5 I couldn't notice any difference with the spark plug seated or not seated. So since the engine block can't be the problem, then it has to be something with the valves like you guys say. Since I can't see any fault by myself then it's best I take it to a professional workshop. Will let you know what the problem is/was when I solve the problem

Yepp, the rings were fine...

I promisied to let you know how it goes. Well, I removed the head and the 5th piston, and didn't see any problems. The piston was like new, didn't have any oil on top or anything like the other pistons that worked. Piston is properly installed, valves are opening/closing and are not looking to be bent or anything. The cylinder wall was also fine (it had good compression before the rebuld). So I contacted a mechanic, and he said I probably installed the cambelt / camshaft wrong, that caused the 0 compression when firing up. Do you guys think it's possible to get 0 comp. when installing the cambelt/camshaft wrong? I was making sure all the 3 markings were correct, and rechecked 10 times, and it was OK. I have really never done a rebuild before so I could do something silly...

I hope so, will let you know when I find it out, I'm soon finish removing the head.

Turned out it was 0 compression on that cylinder, now it will be exciting to found out what caused it after removing the head. When looking through the spark plug hole, I can see that the piston is like new, silver color, while the 5 others are black of oil. The pistons are new, and I didn't hear any abnormal sounds when firing the engine up, so hopefully the piston is not damaged.

I swaped the injector that was on cyl5 (the one that didn't work) on cyl1, and the other that worked on cyl5. Turned on the engine, and the same problem was still there, injector on cyl5 don't let any fuel. So the injectors is not anything wrong with, It must be some wiring that are damaged or not plugged correctly

I tried tapping it several times but it didn't change anything I have removed the air manifold now and trying to remove the injector and see.. Any more suggestions ?

I see. Should I tap the injector before I start the engine or after it has started ?

Thank you for the reply, will test it asap. How do you recomend to clean the injector? Any more suggestions is appreciated. Btw, the car was only unused for about 2 weeks..

Hi. I got a problem with the engine only running on 5 cylinders after overhaul. Have changed pistons, valve seals, all gaskets etc.. I did NOT have this problem before. This is what happened first time when I tried to start it: - Fuel pump did make strange noises when turning on the ignition, the engine would not start at all, turned out to be the fuel rails connected opposite direction - After connecting them correctly the fuel pump sounded normal again, and the engine started right away, but it was leaking gas from the fuel pump. Turned out to be a fuel hose that suddenly cracked and needed to be replaced (fixed). Now, the engine starts and runs ok, and the gas is not leaking anymore. But the cylinder 5 is not running. There is spark, but no fuel coming from the injector (plug is not wet and no smell of fuel) The other cylinders are fine. I have NOT disconnected the injectors during the overhaul. Things I have tried so far: Another spark plug and coil (no difference) Restarted the ECU What can be the problem you guys think? I appreciate all the help I can get.

Here are some pictures from Norway, my first drift run on the track