Iceman22

I managed to install it today, I did have to jack the engine up a little bit to make it possible. Next time I know what to do, thanks for all the help.

Thanks for all the replies so far. Yes I needed to replace the pistons because the old were in bad condition. Have not tried jacking the engine up yet. Have someone else had this problems that I currently have ?

Yeah I totaly agree on that. I used a lot of strenght to get it out, have tried to put it back long time now but I can't do it. It's surely something I do wrong but I don't know what.

I haven't removed the engine from the engine bay, I removed the oil pan because I installed new pistons. If I try to install the oil pan without the oil filter, then it's ok, it's just the filter that is the problem.

Hi. I'm almost done with a rebuild, but I can't fit on the oil pan, because the oil filter net is blocking. I have almost given up, I consider to cut the "oil pipe" in half, and just fit a hose instead (see pic below). Does anyone have a experience with this that can give me a better solution ? Thanks.

Hi. I also wonder how much torque is needed for the rod bolts on RB25DET. I found this on a other site, is that right? 1) Apply engine oil to the conrod bolts and nuts bearing surface. 2) Tighten to 14-16Nm or 1.4-1.6Kg-m. 3) Place alignment marks to the nuts and the conrod cap (eg white paint etc) in one direction (if using the protractor). 4) Additionally tighten 60-65 degrees.

It turned out it was worse than cracked rings, four of the pistons had cracks around them Next time I will be more carefull when buying a used car that was used for drifting Lucky for me that my dad is mechanic, so he can rebuild the engine without costs except for new parts..

Sorry to bring this topic back again, but I have one question that is related to this topic. Does the valve lifters need to be adjusted after the head removal or does all the skylines have hydralic lifters that don't need to be adjusted?

There are many mods done in the engine room that previous owner did not informed me on, but here is a picture,

But would a bad piston ring cause oil blowing from the blow off valve and oil coming in the intercooler when driving hard ?

Hi. It seems the car is not ok after all... Two days ago when I took the car on track and drifted with it, the extreme oil consumption started again. A lot of oil is blowing out of the blow off valve, and oil coming in the intercooler/air intake pipes. Also there is some smoke from the exhaust (white/blue) when changing gear and when letting of the throttle pedal, not visible in the rear mirror, only when watching outside behind the car... I took a compression test while the engine was cold, and all cylinders had good compression (150psi), except for cylinder #2, that was only 60psi. So my question is, could the low compression on cylinder #2 cause all this oil blowing out of the engine? Or is it the turbo I recently fitted faulty ? I hope I can hear yours opinions, thanks in advance.

Hi again! I drived the car hard again yesterday, normally I would use a lot of oil, but when I checked the oil this morning, it haven't used any at all So the skyline and I are very happy now ! Thanks for all your help, hope this thread would be usefull for someone else when experience the same problem as I did.

I cleaned the intercooler and intake pipes for oil today, it was very much in there. After that the oil didn't leak from dump valve this time, so look's like the turbo is good for now Anyway, I think the car use a bit to much oil when driving it extremely hard (not yet confirmed), even though no smoke is visible. I suspect it's the oil I'm using that can't handle the high temperature/pressure, (Coma 15W40 semi syntetic, english brand). The original oil pressure gauge read approx: [1 bar = 1kg/cm2] 6-7 bar when the engine is cold 6 bar when driving hard when engine is warm 4 bar when driving slow 2.5 bar when idling (warm engine) For me this sound kinda high, because 8 bar is the maximum level on the gauge. Am I wrong?

Hi again guys. Now the new turbo is fitted, it's a bit used but the seller told me that the turbo is in great condition. The smoke from the exhaust is now completely gone. I drived it today very hard, but no smoke was ever visible, and It's definetely not suffering for performance Before I fitted the new turbo, I noticed it was alot of oil in the intercooler pipes and intake pipe, I didn't cleaned it yet but I will do it tomorow. There was some oil coming out of the blow off valve, hopefully it's because of the oil that is left from the old turbo, I will report back and see if it helped cleaning.

Thanks for your help everyone! I bought a original turbo that was in great condition, will install it next week, hopefully it will solve the problem. I have a good feeling that it's the turbo because: * It was oil under the place where the turbo is installed * play in the shaft (both directions) * burned oil only when boosting and drived hard * turbo air pressure for the turbo was never "stable", boost controller always warned when it exceeded 0.85bar even though I had low settings * turbo boost response was on the lowest setting from the last owner, therefore I suspect the last owner did this so I wouldn't find out of the burning oil problem since the turbo was barely used Hope I'm right

I checked by myself when I took it out, and the play was in both directions, side to side and in/out, not much but it was there. It would be fun to gain 50-100 more horsepower when upgrading turbo etc... but if it still was going to burn oil afterwards it would be a dissaster I also have a strong feeiling it's the turbo causing all this since I now know the play is not ok.

I found the pcv valve, thanks. Now a little update. Like I said, I sent the turbo to a professional workshop earlier, and now they told me that the turbo blade had play in the shaft, so the turbo is definitely not OK, and it would probably not last for long I was recommended to change the turbo to a good GARRETT instead of buying new original one, but I'm a little afraid that the oil problem will not disappear even after installing a new turbo and spending much money for nothing.... Do you guys think that the worn turbo would really burn so much oil by itself while accelerating, and that in the bottom the engine is OK? Should I just go for the new turbo ?

I see, the rocker cover is disassembled on my engine like you see on the picture, I can't remember seeing any blue plastic bit, but I will check later when I come home. It isn't visible on the picture I attached right?

I haven't drived a skyline with 300 horsepowers before, so I don't have a comparison, but I can't say it feels weak, in my opinion it accelerates fast. At first when I got the car it feelt weak, but it was because the last owner had turbo boost response on the lowest setting (boost controller), after I changed it to higher setting (like it was supposed to be) it was performing much better, and I think it performs like it should.

Hi. I have imported a skyline last month that has only covered 130.000 km, since day one it has only been troubles with it. The biggest problem now is that it burns extreme amounts of oil, if I drive it hard for like a hour, it can burn 2 liters of oil without problem... (Insane) Short info: - White smoke from exhaust when the car is idling when engine is warm, - No visible smoke when the engine is cold and idling - When accelerating hard, it comes allot of white/light blue smoke (not completely blue color), and leaves a smoke cloud which is visible in the mirror - No visible oil leaks - No loss of water in the cooler - Doesn't burn oil when driving carefully/slow - A bit of oil in the intake pipe and intercooler pipes - Engine room very clean Since the car only have 130.000km, and have no visible blue smoke, I'm hoping that it's not the piston rings... Also a while a go I had a car with worn pistons, but at least I didn't have to refill the oil every day even though I droved it hard. I have "stripped down" the turbo and sent it for troubleshooting, and I hoping that the oil seals are causing this. After googling on net, I found out that the PCV valve can also be the problem, but I can't locate where it is in the engine, that's why I created this topic so you guys can help me with that. I attached the picture from the engine room, hope someone can mark where the PCV valve is so I can check it... Thanks for replies in advance...