The Mafia

E85 is so much better. Even in E40 form. It's shame that you don't have access to it. A water meth kit can be made reliable but it takes a few sensors and a decent ECU like the Link G4x.

As a tuner, I prefer not to use it. It's too unreliable and a lot of people tack it on without any safeties. When the kit fails, you get a massive amount of detonation which is more than enough to destroy a motor. I have seen cars come in with clogged nozzles. How long they have been beating on them - you have no idea. It could throw a rod on the first dyno ramp. Once again, no idea. A lot of these people also have zero motivation to service the WMI kit - cleaning nozzles, testing them etc. If you insist on using it, I suggest these as a minimum: - Aftermarket ECU with proper safeties set up - A FLOW meter, not a pressure sensor wired to the ECU and protections set up. no flow = no boost and timing. - Decent lines and pump - A proper solenoid nozzle that supports PWM and has a very good spray pattern Tuning will cost a fair bit more but it will save your engine.

Hi Gents. I have some data for the EFR8474. Engine: RB26 2.8L Stroker Compression: 9.8:1, 0.8mm gasket, custom CP pistons Head: Medium to significantly ported, 1mm oversized valves Cams: HKS Vcam 264 intake 9.x mm lift, Kelford 272 exhaust 10.2mm lift) Turbo: Borg Warner EFR Black 8474, 1.01 rear housing split pulse Manifold: 6boost, Turbosmart ProGate Exhaust: 3.5inch all the way (had 4psi back pressure - 4 inch one day) Gearbox: Holinger 6 Speed sequential (dyno'd in 5th, 1:1 ratio) ECU: Emtron KV8 Dyno: DynoDymanics AWD reading about 40hp too low (compared back to back with 2 other dynos) Sensors: Almost all of them It is starting to Emap itself. There is this tingle you get as a tuner (more so, a whole bunch of variables and behaviour) when the exhaust manifold pressure is too high. As soon as the gaskets are getting services again, I'm going to fit an emap sensor port to the manifold. This allows the Emtron to completely calculate fuel model. What they can do is absolutely awesome regarding this. Once I have generated an emap estimate table, I can disconnect it. Or install a tap so I can "turn it off". They don't like being connected permanently, they fail. Regarding the power output - As a tuner with almost 20 years experience I can honestly say the Emtron is pretty much spot on with the power output readings when you set the frictional loss table correctly. Very happy with the way this ECU calculates power like this. Not sure if anyone noticed, but RB water pumps suck. (two meanings there). I need to modify the radiator outlet, or make a custom rad. On the circuit, both water and oil temps are pinned to 82~degrees though. I have a MASSIVE oil cooler. Oil coolers make all the difference on the RB engines. Also, this setup seems pretty good but is very agressive coming onto boost. Being a circuit car, I am considering switching to the 1.45AR rear housing to make the power more transient, to stop it emapping itself, and to be more gentle on the hotside to reduce wear and provide longevity. The housings are quite pricey though. See how I go. Happy to answer any questions or extract any other data (within reason) that you might be interested in.

My Godzilla kit fits around my VCAM too

I got the Godzilla Motorsport kit. Was a really nice kit. Fit very nicely and no more coils coming apart and losing the resistor. He's based in Brisbane, and was the first person to ever make a R35 coil fit an RB engine.

I had multiple issues on my GTR: - Trigger kit trigger errors (version 1, 36-2..) - Alternator brackets (both types snapped in half) Losing the belt is dangerous, can cook the engine! - Alternator pulley squealing like hell,causing belt failures - New type of coil kit pulling apart and always almost losing the resistor, missfires. Replaced all of these items, and no more issues. There is more to it but that's all I will say. Just glad to have a reliable race car now. Very selective on what I put on the car and the advice that I'm given now too.

At the moment I am running 20-24psi and rev it to 7,000rpm on the circuit. I have a Holinger 6speed so there isn't a great need to rev it hard, only keep the rpm above 4500rpm or it bogs a little. It's a 9.75:1 compression ratio with a HKS Vcam. 264/272 cams. It's a hard one for me. 150rpm I can live with, but 400rpm would hurt a little in two corners that I know. I plan to put it in the dyno soon and measure the back pressure through one of the EGT ports. I have plenty of logs and data, and I mean lots of data. I also have turbo speeds. Running between 104,000rpm and 108,000rpm.

From what I can see in my logs, anything above half way doesn't do too much other than just max out the solenoid. The other thing that I notice is it just follows the throttle position mostly. Auto mode doesn't do "that" much. Still a decent unit that is a bit better than the stock system. The stock system with a digital G sensor would be a good cheap way to do this too. More of a simple installation. The Emtron has a huge amount of centre diff control so it will take me a while to get it exactly how I want. But I am confident that there will be nothing that can control the diff as well as the Emtron. I'll also have either a dial or keypad buttons that can adjust the amount of overall intensity. One other cool thing - I will be able to completely lock out the diff in reverse so that I can turn it. I have a ATS Carbon plated LSD in the front, and fully built transfer case, these make it a little hard to reverse when almost at full lock, the diff binds up.

Hey mate, any specials for the SAU team? I have an EFR 8474 Black series on my RB28 and it has the 1.0AR rear. I think it's choking up. Do you have any back to back dynos / comparisons of the smaller and larger rears?

I do the same for full circuit. They are a half decent unit but I monitored the output and it was a bit underwhelming. I'm in the middle of creating maps in the Emtron to have full ECU control over the centre diff.

I pulled all the PRP gear off my circuit car and binned it. It's more reliable now.

Has anyone got any direct info of using a front helical vs an ATS 1.5 way? I have a front Quaife helical that I have been running circuit with (600awhp R33 GTR) and I'm about to remove it and install a ATS Carbon 1.5 way. I have a built GTR mechanical in the rear with the Nismo 12kg/cm2 in the back. Transfer has the extra plates and is controlled by the Emtron KV8. DSS Front shafts going in, I keep breaking the shit GSP ones.

haha mate, I definitely don't have time for gauges. I get a very big red full screen on my dash alerting me when I'm at 112 degrees, it's a bit hard to miss. At 113c, it starts to pull the limiter down.

90c? When racing heavy loaded circuit, I wouldn't lift off until I got to 112 degrees. This was with 600awhp. I would ease off at 112c, and it would start dropping back almost immediately. 90c is nothing. Lots of modern engines run at 100 degrees as standard. all the way up to 110 degrees is okay, just start watching it above that. 113c is my hard limit.

I'm running a R33 GTR circuit car. It's on Slicks, E85, 800hp. All the good stuff. Sequential Holinger etc. I have Frenchies earlier dual pump hanger - It seats two Walbro 460lph pumps on the bottom of the tank next to each other. I've run that tank as low as a quarter while racing and have not had any issues with fuel pickup at all. Radium rail and end mount reg. Always logging the fuel pressure. Hydramat might be good, but you might be overthinking it too mate.