The Mafia

Definitely something wrong with that torque reading. Mine was done on two different dynos, and same reading. So don't lose faith in your freddy manifold just yet. You'll find that is not the problem. Power is up there - just the torque is not quite right. MPH will definitely be an indication of what you're really running. Good luck!

Odd, I ran a freddy manifold on my RB25 with a GT3076 at 18psi. RB25 - 314rwkw 750nm torque RB25/30 - 320rwkw / 850nm torque Ahhh, just read that you have a RB20. Surely that won't make too much of a difference?

570nm sounds low, are you sure that is correct?

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with a walbro externally. There are better options. Aftermarket industries makes beautiful surge tanks, and they also sell the Holley Dominator 1400 and 1800 external billet pumps. Worth every cent. http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/fuel-pumps--accessories-c3/holley-dominator-1400-p180/ http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/fuel-pumps--accessories-c3/holley-dominator-1800-p92/

That is a really good review. I'll probably buy the Walbro 400lph pump after reading that.

Hey mate Can you go into more detail about the issues you had with the DW pumps? Was it an isolated issue or common?

I will be staying right the f**k away from that pump then

Hey everyone I've noticed there isn't much into on fuel pumps etc when searching the forum so I thought I would add some of my own stuff. So here is a bit of info that I can give. I am also after a few other opinions. I'm a Nismo man, I have never had any issues with the Nismo 275lph pump that they make a drop in for most Skylines. Problem is, these don't have official E85 support. I've been looking at these pumps: 1. Walbro 400lph E85 Pump (Apparently some issues with priming?) 2. Deatschworks 320LPH Version 2 E85 Pump 3. Bosch 044 4. Nismo 275lph Straight drop in Okay... so there are other catches... like factory wiring. Does anyone have an idea on what sort of amperage the factory wiring can handle? I've been looking at flow charts and comparing amp draw with PSI etc. Here are some flow charts. Walbro 400lph Deatschworks 320LPH Version 2 Random Pumps Deatschworks 320LPH Version 2 again The FLow charts are definitely interesting. My intentions are: Replace the factory fuel pump in my BNR34 with a decent pump that will do 400awkw, and from there, when its time to go for more power, I will add an aftermarket industries surge tank, and use the twin Holley Dominator 1400 pumps to feed my injectors. (ID 1300cc Stainless) Currently installing 2 x HKS 2530s and supporting mods. Your input would be appreciated. The Mafia

Dude... just so you know.... A full stop is better than "!!" when finishing a sentence.. Have you been drinking too much red bull?

R34 GTR Nismo pump Disco stu If it's a 8-9 amp pump, what does this mean for me? haha actually... yes I do. I am running a Nistune (R32 GTR ECU in my R34 GTR). Works really well.

Sorry about the thread revival guys, but I am at a moot point regarding fuel pumps and it is driving me mad. What I plan on doing is running a pump on its own (With the intentions of it becoming a lift pump once I need more fuel). I have a brand new Nismo 275lph @ 80psi pump sitting in a box wrapped in plastic. I've been told not to use it for E85, and I want to use E85. People have told me to get a Walbro 400lph pump which is E85 compatible. So I did some homework: The walbro 400lph isn't exactly that. (I have attached flow diagrams) It flows 315lph at 70psi (45psi base, 25psi of boost) Nismo flows 275lph @ 80 psi which I estimate to be over 300lph at 70psi. Anyway - should I just drop the Nismo in and run E85 through it and be done with it? I love Nismo pumps. So quiet, small, and, its Nismo!

These are sold. Thanks to all of those that were interested.

Pair of Genuine HKS Dump Pipes to suit RB26. Both have been HPC'd and never used afterwards. They are in new condition. Absolutely pristine. (Pics show that) Location: Mackay Price: $520

These are still available. Sorry, email notifications weren't working, but they are now. Let me know if you are interested

For Sale - Genuine Tomei Expreme Exhaust manifolds, Heat Proof coated (inside and out) and then never used. These are in new, pristine condition. Ready to bolt straight onto R32/R33/R34 GTR. HPC alone is worth around $300. Price: $750ono Pics attached Location: Mackay - Will post for free. Feel free to ask any questions.

Hey mate, do you have the exhaust manifolds for sale?

I eventually pushed my setup to 22psi and I would guess it was making around 320rwkw. It went hard and early. Always on full at about 3400rpm in 2nd, 3200rpm in third. Never had issues with detonation. One point I should make is that I could not run boost lower than 18psi even though I had a 12psi actuator. The rear housing wasn't the extra ported internal WG, only the standard one. Felt the same on the RB25/30 with a 0.82 rear housing. Just more down low. Same rwkw, but torque went from 720nm to 850nm+

Has anyone bolted a pair of billet TD05s onto a GTR as twins and can give some info about them? This is the one I am talking about - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291181204667&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en Thinking about a pair of TD05H-18Gs for a as responsive as possible 450awkw. How would they compare to 2 x HKS 25-30s?

okay, all done. I have a nistuned R32GTR ECU running my R34 GTR. I have spoken to Matt from Nistune for some help and regarding what was needed to be done. The car runs absolutely perfect with the R32 GTR ECU. Compared to the powerfc: - Starts faster - comes to idle so much quicker - idle is heaps more stable - car just generally runs better After tuning the rest of the map, it runs really well. Regarding how I did it, It is a little more than just swapping cas wires - Differences between wiring: Pin 8 - Ignition switch (IGN) (R34) / Pin 45 - Not used (R34) => Wire pin 8 to Pin 45 (R32 ECU) Pin 10/20 - Not used (R34) => Pin normally for Ignition GND (R32 ECU) Wire 10/20 to pin 50/60 to provide the R32 ECU with an ignition ground reference. After this R32 ECU will work fine in R34 ECU after speaking to Jono today and getting it working Pin 31 - Not used (R34) => Wire needed to be added for consult CLK signal (R32 ECU) Pin 41 - Camshaft position 1 deg POS (R34) / Pin 51 not used (R34) => Swap to 42/52 on CAS 1 deg POS (R32 ECU) Pin 42/52 - Camshaft position 120 deg REF (R34) => Swap to 41/51 on CAS 120 deg REF (R32 ECU) Pin 54 - IMMU/NATS (R34) - Don't worry about this => Not used (R32 ECU) Pin 115. Heated O2 sensor control signal => This pin not used (R32 ECU) so wire to be connected to pin 50 (control unit ground) on R32 ECU

Sorry the one pin I was referring to the one mysterious pin that is causing the problem. I have actually found the problem anyway - It is the coilpacks. When unplugging the coilpack loom, the fuse stops blowing. This will be because the BNR32 runs an ignitor box, the R34 GTR does not. So there is a wiring difference. I have checked both ECU pinouts and they are identical which has me a bit confused. You'd think if the pinouts on the ECU were identical there wouldn't be an issue. Any ideas? Or does anyone have experience with this kind of wiring / circuits?

The ECU is for a R32 GTR. It has been nistuned and I would like to install it for testing purposes. All valid re-wiring internally has been done - IE Crank angle sensor pins switched, Pin 8 and Pin 45 Bridged, and the O2 sensors grounded. (Some more things but you get my jist). I can connect to the ECU fine and edit settings, ALL sensors check out okay, and there are no error codes. But as soon as I crank it, it blows the fuse. There is one little thing - One pin. Hence why I want to know specifically what that fuse is protecting. I have so many wiring diagrams, but no idea which one it is.

Hi Currently testing a different ECU in my BNR34 Vspec 2. Whenever I crank the car, the fuse circled below blows, and no luck. When I put the old ECU back in, the car works fine. It says Engine CONT but I would like to know what it is specifically. I suspect it could be the IMMU (Immobiliser) The Fuse holder isn't out of the car, it is just for illustration purposes. Thanks Jono

Hi Currently testing a different ECU in my BNR34 Vspec 2. Whenever I crank the car, the fuse circled below blows, and no luck. When I put the old ECU back in, the car works fine. It says Engine CONT but I would like to know what it is specifically. I suspect it could be the IMMU (Immobiliser) The Fuse holder isn't out of the car, it is just for illustration purposes. Thanks Jono

At those sort of kms, I'd be getting the bores checked. They will most likely be mushroomed. Also, why that turbo? There are much better options out there. The kando range are cheap and brilliant.

Yeah you're probably right. Maybe I need to see that manifold in the sun then. Looks bloody great none the less.