The Mafia

interesting - its a 7 blader. I'm keen to see the response.

1. Nobody challenged your view about the .78 housing being like 2 x small .38 housings in one. In fact, it is a .78 being fed by 2.5 litres in total. The improvement in response is apparently due to the non interference of opposing pressure waves that assist to draw exhaust from neighbours. Can you find a reason why Nissan/Garrett engineers chose not to divide the OEM housing on RB20/25 when their manifold IS divided? 2. I will give some ground on the idea of better off boost response for a properly designed split pulse system - which means it would HAVE to have runner length + diameter specified for the application (power + rev range) - because it is sort of emulating a PROPERLY engineered set of extractors on a N/A car. Mostly it's a bit like splitting hairs though. 3. I have used four different A/R housings, and settled on the smaller one because of unacceptable lag. I've used a butchered VG30 housing, a butchered RB25 housing, a Garrett .82 housing, and a garrett 0.63 housing. Fair enough you're saying "yeah there ARE options" to prove the point - but they're all bigger. So what is achieved? More top end power, but more lag down low because the gas velocity through the housing at low engine rpm is too slow to accelerate the rotor. But ultimately, we really need to divide this into another thread because it really has absolutely nothing to do with what I have achieved - 300rwkw, that is very usable, and not too laggy, with a very simple budget. Lets start discussing diff options, and things like that eh?

I thought they did it with the RB26 ecu's? hhmmm. We'll have to keep on it.

don't worry, I'm nudging him I have a powerfc pro here for a GTR that I want in my car asap. Cubes, Paul also send me your Loom comparison excel spreadsheet. Done well. Paul, its got to work, because the AP engineering guys obviously worked it out. Maybe a AP engineering ECU as reference to see what they did?

Disco I understand where you are coming from but I'm not talking about a RB26\30 with 500rwkw capability. I'm talking about a mildy ported RB25 head, on a RB30 bottom end, running RB30 rods, balanced, BT30r or maybe a GT35 at low boost, running about 300rwkw to 340rwkw. The torque wuld be fantastic, top power would be enough, and you'd be able to control the wheel spin. You wouldn't need this head that breathes like a hurricane, just something to do the job you're after. I'm planning on doing this, and it shouldn't blow $3k. As for your comment on the twin scroll not needing boost - HOw is it going to make power then? Making a change to the turbo isn't going to do jack all to the car off boost. You might get a 5% difference to this different design of manifold, but hardly noticable? The 3l simply has it all over the twin scroll in all areas, and if you already have a decent turbo, thats even better. So basically, a simple 3l build Forgies (or even standard pistons), Standard rods Standard oil pump (with the extra return plumbed, and feed blocked) Standard exhaust manifold (maybe honed a little) GT30r, (or maybe a GT35 if you want to upgrade a touch more) These are the things you should already have: ECU Fuel pump FMIC Exhaust I'd rather the torquey off boost balls the 3.0l has, even if its just a touch more expensive. Oh, and its a complete rebuild, so thats something you don't need to worry about for a loooong time.

some people cut coke cans and drill holes and fit the aluminium in between. Do it at your own risk though.

because the T88 that you have on there has a seized bearing, and the NOS kit is stuck on full? (List your mods, you could own a Lancer for all we know)

sorry mate, but this is crap. I have a stock BOV on a GT3076 Turbo, running 18psi and there is absolutely no leaking. I've changed it, and no difference, and then I changed it back because my car sounded like a wanker. and no once again this is absolute rubbish. The ONLY reason the powerfc pulls timing out of the car when its hot is to PREVENT pinging. There is absolutely NO way pinging can make the temps rise so dramatically. Not a chance in hell. I'd put money on the engine going BOOM! before the water temp rose 10 degrees.

Hi everyone, sorry about the slack replies again, been out of town, and sick all at once.. Heh, I'll gt over it. Nice little discussion here (well done to dale, BHdave, Disco, Cubes, etc), I'll try and answer most of your questions. Hey dale, I've had a look at the inlet manifold and are now wondering where I would put the WMI nozzle if I Was to put on one of those cast Greddy copies. Cubes has also notified me in a PM that I need a bigger intake chamber if I was to move to the 3.0l bottom end. THis is interesting - and if anyone could elaborate on this particular point I'd be interested in what they have to say. Cubes, maybe the RB20 intake is smaller that the RB25? AS for the cars purpose - I'm using it for around town driving, travelling, and draging. I managed 10l to the 100kms on my last trip which isn't bad considering I was flogging it a fair bit of the way, passing cars at full throttle (which is so much fun) and yeah sitting on 120kmph (thats 3100rpm!) well, it was weird it would ping randomly (my guess the .63 housing was at its limits) but I could advance the timing to a point where it was not doing anything. I took 3 degrees out and it lost 5 rwkw. So not really worth having it there IMO. I want to start aiming for faultless driving (ie no ping at all) so I might have to make a few changes to the tune. I don't mind running WMI 24\7 because it uses bugger all water anyway (probably 2 litres of WM every 2 tanks of fuel). I fill my washer bottle up more often now. I am too - I've seen a few dyno plots, and even though they manage to give about 10% - 15% more midrange, I still cannot justify the cost. I'm running 300rwkw here, off a standard manifold, and standard type exhaust housing. If I were to change to a split pulse design: 1. Exhaust manifold - $1000 2. External Gate - $800 3. Gaskets - $100 4. Rear housing - $600 5. New Dump and fabrication - $800 Total: $3300 I could rebuild the engine with a 3l bottom end for that much. And I can also give the guarantee that the 3.0l bottom end is going to give you a heap more bottom end that a twin scroll housing, and with better fuel economy. (Twin scroll needs to be on boost to provide that bottom end) I'm not knocking your split pulse idea Disco, but some times I just cannot see how it would be financially viable when you could go for the much better option with the RB30? Even if the RB30 cost a little more, its going to yeild much better results. I am sure you could get a 3.0l bottom end done by someone for around the 4k mark. I'm getting it done for about 2k, because I know way too many people, and the engine is being built in my garage. Thats a good idea - but I want to see someone bloody do it - not talk about it. I get the shits because I can read so much info here, but no one can confirm anything - its all hearsay - like the intake manifolds (greddy copy), turbos, etc etc. Is this one just going to be all talk like the rest? I had no idea about these - but I probably wouldn't have done it anyway to be honest - spending big bucks on the exhaust manifold, external gate, would have moved my turbo upgrade from $2000 to over $4000. And I wasn't interested in removing the exhaust manifold, I wanted the stockest looking 300rwkw I could get Well, mine is a little agressive, can't keep the car straight until I hit about 120kmph. I think I am going to need to invest in some decent rubber and get back to everyone. keep us updated - I'd maybe like to try something like this. Sick of the back end going spastic when it breaks traction.

well, I'd like to know about the 3 litre too, but have a read of my thread about the rb25det and 300rwkw. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167572

well, 200rwkw is fine on the stock pump but I'd be changing it anyway. The stock pump is old, and you are only putting strain on it, and if it dies, the engine goes BOOM!. hehe Nismo drop in replacements are abut $400 from nengun. Its completely factory fitting, no mucking around what so ever.

be really careful on the flow rates - Some are rated at 42psi, and some are rated at 73psi. Just remember that the R33 has a 42psi rail, and then add your boost on top of that. I run 18psi so that means my pump needed to push 60psi. I originally had a walboro 255lph pump, and yeah it was 255lph....at 40psi! As soon as the pump goes from 60psi - 70psi it almost halves in flow. I now have a Nismo 275lph pump on order.

I try and keep mine below 20. I've heard loud pings 40.

if you think thats a loud sound - come and stand near mine at 18psi with a 4 inch stainless pipe, and a GT3076 sucking at the other end.. Then you turn some heads.... Or maybe cause some people to dive for cover cause they think there is a cyclone coming to tear their house out of the ground..

I'm in on this too, keen to see.

Rob, You're a f**king legend. Thank you so much for getting involved.

yeah man, sounds like the coilpacks the extra boost is putting out the spark cause the coilpacks are shagged..

coilpacks? List your mods? FOr all when know you could be running a 400hp shot of NOS, and a jet engine strapped onto the boot?

can anyone confirm what he is saying? Would be nice is someone shared their knowledge

hhmm, interesting, I never knew about the fuel pump. I hope paulr33 is watching this thread. More posts when I get home from work.

Hi everyone I have a R33 GTS-T Series 2 (1996) Just wondering if anyone as performed this conversion before as per the thread title. I'm well aware of the conversion that Paulr33 is undertaking But my questions are: Can the RB26 Powerfc just be plugged in and powered with blowing it up? I think there are only small differences like : 1. AFM wiring 2. No VCT 3. Different settings (I can fix, I have a FC datalogit) If anyone at all has any ideas or knows where someone has documented this, please post them! oh, and if you're just going to post "Just go and get a RB25 Powerfc" don't bother. I already have one. I want to wire in the pro.

sounds like this car is going to be slow... lol Nice setup mate.

so have there been any ideas about getting the VCT working?

hey mine arrived over a week ago too. Very nice. Thanks jetdat. They are pretty damn good quality for the price you pay!

lol read what you posted - its confusing as hell! So the 4.3's will make it less laggier? What sort of cost is involved? Will it be just as strong?