The Mafia

you're shitting me? Here I was, thinkin about buying a GTR and running 320awkw hhmmm...... why so? The extra weight?

I hit 300 easily and now its not enough.... but it has to be, cops are bad here

Dale FZ1 has this setup and got some excellent results with it, I suggest you speak with him regarding a few things. He's full of ideas, and is highly knowledgable and motivated in this area.

"my car is doing this thing were it makes a huge wooshing sound, then blows flames from the exhaust, then the bonnet blows off, and mysteriously re-generates back on the car, are you able to tell me why?" "what mods!!" x 100000 posts "oh sorry, forgot to say that its a mk639 UFO with light speed hyper drive" TO EVERYONE WANTING TO POST A PROBLEM - LIST YOUR MODS, WE CAN'T READ YOUR MIND AND KNOW WHAT YOUR CAR HAS GOT

fark thats cheap... Whats the Turbo CHRA number?

nah, pod filter. Engine bay is too interesting to fit a standard airbox in

I'm still rofling about the random last comment in the first post

lol, good luck with the sale

I've ordered a Nismo replacement, as the 044 is simply too big, and is external. There is no such thing as an internal 044. This will fix the problem (I hope lol)

why is it there? - Its there because who ever sold you the car must have forgotten to put one of the pistons back in. should i be worried? - Yes, probably only running on 5 cylinders should i crucify myself? - Yes, on a cross, with barbed wire, and lots of monkeys dancing around you with whips On a more serious note, this is normal.

doesn't matter if mine was created after or before this thread. There must be about 100 threads getting around on people who have achieved 300rwkw+, and there is even plenty of cars posted in the dyno results thread. No wonder this thread has gone to shit, judging by some of the replies. Some people need to wake up to themselves.

ok, sorry about lack of appearance - I'll try and answer most of your questions: Thank you very much mate, I appreciate your help and will look into it. I think I might just get the 044 to be safe. ok 1. Tyres are 18 inch, 235 wide, 40 profile 2. Standard Diff Gears 3. Yes I do, as soon as I sort out the fueling issue 4. Thanks man, appreciate it. It feels good to know that I did this all myself. lol, first time I have heard this. Did you see a few posts back about how much water is actually going in? Also, water can't wash oil away. Fuel is worse for this. The water and methanol is actually better for your engine. 1. The water retards the burn, and slows it down, allowing the burn to push the piston for a longer period of time, supressing detonation. 2. The methanol drops inlet temps by about 15 degrees. RB30 - 1. GT35 - 0.82a\r rear. Not sure on the rest of the turbo. Depends how much power you want. That setup should have a RB30 on boost before 3900rpm, and you won't notice the lag due to the extra bottom end torque. 2. WMI - Get the boost cooler kit, and run that same nozzle as me. Run a 375ml min nozzle then go back to a 225 ml min, and see if it pings or changes at all. I did this, and didn't have to touch the tune so the 225 was plenty. There are calculators that can help you with this on the snow performance website. Water injection I reckon gave me anywhere between 20rwkw and 40rwkw. I was able to add 12 advance to full load. Thats a f**king lot of timing. Before the WMI, If I added 1 degree is would ping its ass off. Yeah, I'm running splitfires with NGK BKR7E's at a 0.8mm gap. Coppers of course. Thanks already attempted a gain for the EX cam gear before the WMI. Didn't make much difference. Not sure if it would now either. Care to expand on this? Dale FZ1 also tried and had very little luck for the effort. What do you mean by "unreactive chamber"? Apparently these rods are only good for 280rwkw. But I don't think its that. Its the ramp rate of the power that kills them. Think about it. If a rod is moving slowly, and you force huge power upon it, it will bend. If it is moving slowly, and you apply moderately increasing weight on it, it speeds up, and is able to take more once moving at a decent speed. I checked my pump, its getting 13.8 volts. Earthed to the chassis, 14.2 volts. Plenty there. The "standard wiring" theory is based on the R32s. In the R33, the Battery is right there (in the boot) with the pump. Discopotato - I have looked at this. its interesting, yet expensive. I highly doubt you'd have change from $4,000 after doing this, yet the gains are less than 15%. I'm not entirely impressed on bang for buck. The WMI, only $850 proved its weight in gold. There are a few dyno plots I have seen on a particular forum that you are also discussing it on, and they have a little more mid range, same top end, and bugger all low down spool. Maybe it was the particular setup on that particular car, but the figures did not impress me against the cost. I don't mean to rain on your parade, if you were doing a full rebuild an changing the turbo and manifold, and had extra cash to get external gates etc, then it might be feasable. But for people that don't earn massie amounts of money, this seems to be a very expensive way to do it. And as per Dales post, I doubt this system would allow for leaner mixtures, and more advanced ignition timing. It can't lower Intake temps, or retard the burn of the fuel mixture. I am keen on Garrets new turbo technology though... The electrical spool up etc... These are looking very interesting indeed. I think I have covered it all. Thanks again guys for all your support, I'll grab a Bosch 044, and get her to the strip on friday the 18th, and see what sort of terminal speed it does.

omfg.... USE THE SEARCH BUTTON, or read the FI forum. We've been talking about 300rwkw all damn week! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...80&start=80

sunds like you spuna big end, and its completely stuffed. But I'm not a mechanic, so go and see one.

well, I pulled the fuel pump and its a genuine Walboro 255lph pump. Any reason why it would be leaning right at the top? I maxxed the injectors and it made no difference. I thoguth a 255lph pump would be heaps for 300rwkw? Surely I don't need a Bosch 044?

if the Powerfc pro falls through, I want it next. So next dibs.

well, I'll assume instantly that the Nismo and Tomei pumps will take 6 months to get and are about 5 times the price. Are the Bosch pumps really that noisey? Even the intank 040's ?

well, I just checked my fuel pump voltage and its getting 14.2 volts. So its maxing out. Never thought it would, so looks like I'll be purchasing a Boche 040 tomorrow. That should do the trick. Then its back to the dyno....

well, I just checked my walboro and it was getting 14.2 volts. Does this mean I need a bigger pump, and don't need to touch the wiring? Car is a 1996 R33 GTS-T. Running out of fuel up top.

you are correct but only to some extent - Water may not compress, but there is bugger all in the combustion chamber the make a difference to the compression ratio. I am using a 225ml\min Nozzle, so every second there is 3.75ml of water going in. Then divide that by 6, = 0.625ml second going in to each cylinder. Thats hardly enough water to cause any problems or cause any Comp ratio increase.

Hey Everyone, I have a RB26 Manifold and the 6 throttle bodies to go with it. It is completely un-modified. Location: Mackay, QLD Price: $500 ono, postage is on top of that. Its in perfect working order. I'm a reliable seller, I've been on SAU for many years, and made plenty of threads and decent discussions. People who can vouch for my reliability: Paulr33, Dale FZ1

well to be honest, after adding the water methanol in on the original turbo (220rwkw) and then going to 250rwkw, the car went spastic in power. No gear was safe, boost came on hard, but it ran out of puff due to the ex housing being a ground out RB25 housing, and the 2.5inch outlet on the first 300mm of the dump pipe. After putting the GT3037 on, its a .63 housing now, and 3inch straight off the back of the turbo, holy shit, no more back pressure, and obviously much more scavenging as Dale has said in a previous post. The detonation was gone, allowing me to ramp it up again. Then I hit the detonation wall at about 270rwkw I'd guess, then the WMI kit allowed me to blow 300rwkw, 700nm of torque, and make timing NOT the limiting factor. The limiting Factor now is the air delivery and exit. If you increase one (boost) you increase the other (exit) and I think at 20psi+ the 0.63 rear might just start to show its limits, as you can see the power is dropping off slightly at the end of the plot. But shit, 300rwkw? Garrett engineers said the 0.63 rear would only do 400hp at the ENGINE which is about 250rwkw, Mnaybe they are just being careful? The internal gate is a little tricky though. The Gizzmo has a fair whack of trouble hanging onto it. I'd really love to see what this Log style manifold can do too. maybe its the thing thats nearing its peak, not the rear housing? But someone correct me - am I getting more flow from these devices (manifold and housing) because the WMI is cooling the combustion down that much?

love your last comment in that post Dale. As for the igntion timing - I was able to increase full load timing by 12 degrees. THis was past the effective value, and I had to actually take out almost 4 degrees to get the best power gain. There is such thing as lighting the fuel up way too early. Traction isn't a problem, I just need to get better tyres I think. Third gear is fine, pulls really hard.

Simple solution - leave the STANDARD PLUMBED BACK bov on, and you won't make a sound.

I'm running 20 degrees, but thats not a real figure because who knows where the cas is compared to yours. I also have a smaller turbine housing.