The Mafia

so do you think I should get a Bosche 040 or somthing? What are they rated at? Why is everyone so scared of the walboro? I thought they were ok? Also, everyone take note - This is a 56trim 3037 from Garrett. The HKS is a 52 trim, and most likely have a slightly different setup. The larger trim gives the top end at the sacrifice of bottom end.

Sorry guys, I've missed a few questions The 0.63AR housing didn't really have much of a difference in lag to the .82ar housing which surprised. The .63 just got onto boost quicker, the .82 started at the same time, but took a little longer. Probably a bit more engine friendly actually. But for the RB25 - the 0.63 i definately a decent size. 82 is just a little too big if you only want to make 300rwkw. I really don't think this housing is restricting the car yet. I mean, its still on a Standard manifold. Which is surprising me. I think I am getting close to its peak, but I don't think I am there yet. Not really sure cubes. I had an idea in my head that 18psi would be good enough, and it is. I've gone up to 22psi, and the car made heaps more power, but at what cost? 300rwkw is more than enough for now. I know that getting over 20psi on stock cast pistons might get a little hot for them, even with the water meth, its better to be safe than sorry. But yeah, I just thought 18psi sounded like a good number. haha weird way of setting the boost eh? 18psi made 300rwkw, and I was only expecting 280rwkw at the most. I guess I Was just lucky? I ran 22psi on the street and it went spastic. I think its nearly peak efficiency there, but I don't need to go that far due to - 1. Engine Life 2. Internal WG 3. 0.63 housing and standard manifold maxing out 4. 300rwkw - its enough!

thanks heaps mate, I'll get onto it.

will you take $80 plus post for the actuator? $10 for an airbag? Let me know if thats ok.

Fuel pressure - Not sure, hence why I am going to wire it up again with better wires so that the pump can see a full 13volts, not just 11volts. As per SK's thread - a Walboro 255lph needs 13volts. at 11volts, its running about 190lph. After market \ Risiing rate Fuel Pressure Regulator - Waste of time. I do not care for these AT ALL, because my current fuel pressure is fine with the 555cc Injectors. They simply need the uel pressure from the pump to keep up with them, and they aren't. A rising rate regulator isn't gonig to help, as I assume there is no pressure from the pump to start with. A lot of people waste their time with regulators when they don't need them. Maybe in higher horsepower applications, but at 300rwkw, or even a bit more, maybe up to 340rwkw, I'm pretty sure the factory regulator does a more than good enough job. Buy decent injectors, and run the car properly. A FPR seems like a bandaid solution to me. I'm pretty sure Dale FZ1 will have a few good points to back my argument. I simply think that the Walboro 255lph I have simply can not supply the full pressure to the regulator at higher flow at 11volts. Jack it up to 13 volts, and there should be more than enough flow to fix that top end pressure\flow. The other reason I assume its only running at 11volts are these: 1. If you put your ear up against the car, you can't hear it at all. 2. Its all untouched factory wiring. 3. Lean mixtures right up to, and consistant, not all over the place. As for the AFR's. I can cheat, because I run water methanol. I'ev had 3 tuners tell me that I should be able to go a little higher and run 12.9 on full load. I'm hesitant, but as you can see, the car isn't complaining. There is no bad knock or detonation, only getting 20's on the PowerFC datalogit kit. 20's is pretty much perfect. I've heard a ping at 40 low load, but bad pinging that I can hear while on high load is usually around the 80 mark. Dunno. Car is quite happy like this, water meth keeps the combustion temps down, detonation down, and intake temps down, even on the hottest prick of days. Might get the airtemp sensor happening. Before and after the w\m. Bare in mind, the older B52 bombers, Supercharged and turbocharged I think, ran water methanol, and the engineers aimed for 13.2 AFRs - same as a NA motor. 12:1 and less is just being really careful, and because you have nothing in place to keep knock and temperatures down? This is all new to me, so anyone that is educated on this matter, please feel free to sign in and add to this discussion. And yes people, if you want free power - Water Methanol Injection. A Real high pressure kit, not some dodgey washer bottle \ garden nozzle \ on\off switch setup. In the last 12 months running this kit, I've spent a total of $80 (2 drums of methanol) and bottles of demineralised water (about $5) Kit needs to be refilled every tank of fuel \ maybe ever second tank, depending on how much you get on boost.

Well, I'd consider putting cams in for these reasons: 1. Earlier Boost 2. More Low to Mid range 3. So I can run less boost. Are there cams that would fit these specs? Or could I get a re-grind?

rbhousing looked quite small. I think that was a limiting factor to the 7 blade config I had. Also, I had the cropped 54mm turbine. If someone was going to go for a 60mm turbine in the 7 blade family, I'd shove it in a .63 garrett housing. I reckon it would go HEAPS better. Oh, and I highly doubt my 2.5inch pipe off the back of the turbo helped.

well, for some reason I liked the bottom end pull the 7 blade compressor. I doubt the 7 blades would have made too much of a difference up to, maybe 20rwkw less, but the power is there, and even 280rwkw isnot much different to 300rwkw. The 6 blade is definately not a big of a deal compared to the 7blade everyone is going on about. Disco - What do you mean by EMP and IMP? And what is this iea you have?

I'd be doing simple things like measuring fuel pressure, and AFM voltage, when this particular problem arises also.

where would the place be without SK? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1670607

Mate, I wouldn't go any bigger, lag would become a huge issue. As for No knock - All of my full load rows are reporting no higher than 25. I have heard a "tink" at 40, so be careful.

Well, its goes like this on the street 2nd - 3900 3rd - 3500 4th - Less than 3500 ALso, there isn't boost creep, its the actuator. The shop in mackay here being useless, got me a 9psi actuator which gives the Gizmp a bit of a hard time. I've go the gizmo set at 18psi, and it holds it quite well. It must hold the gate shut for a while, and then goes to open it, and since the 9psi is so sensitive and weak, it struggles to keep it were it should be? Trying to get a 14psi actuator, if anoyone knows where i can get a second hand one (Smaller type) Thanks heaps mate. I'm looking at this fuel pump volt mod today. I've got access to the dyno almost 7 days a week, and probably 24\7 if I give notice, so I might even go back this afternoon to fix up the top end.

after this comment alone, get another tuner. The car went from 240rwkw then to 220rwkw and for the tuner to just blow you off by saying "The powerfc is taking timing out" is crap. Powerfc's don't do this. I don't think your tuner knows what he is doing.. New Tuner!

Hey Dale A few answers to your questions: The 6 blade compressor I find is LESS responsive than the 7 blade compressor. Most likely due to the 6 blade being a little more lazy than the 7 blade down low. The 7 blade would obviously move more air at a low RPM. This talk about the "Proper" GT30 is a load of shit. They are all GT30's in essence, they are just configured differently for different applications. I'd love to try a 7 blade Configuration, with the bigger 60mm 84 trim turbine. I think that would move some air, and come onto boost relatively early.

as I said, simple fix for the lean out at the very top. Mate, its f**king fantastic to drive.

Nah, I don't think its luck, its all about setup and how careful you are. Things that can cause failure: 1. Tune 2. Driver 3. Bouncing off the Rev Limiter all the time 4. Cheap parts 5. Identifying Knock For me, 1. I do my own tune 2. I drive smart, not wreckless towards my engine 3. I don't bounce off the rev limiter. 4. I use Parts that are tested and known. 5. I can see knock BEFORE it happens. Hey it might last a week more, or a year more, who knows. But I'll take care of her, like I have been for the last 3 years.

dunno, but its been like this for the last 6 months, and hasn't batted an eyelid. Oh, and its ran 18psi for nearly 2 years. 1 of those years had a constant 250rwkw.

Well, all I can say is this. "So, what ya think its gonna make?" Says my good friend Leppy In a Half cocky tone with a cheesy grin, but meaning well. "Ah I dunno, maybe 260rwkw - 280rwkw?" I said, being not so sure. Then Leppy, Puts my car in 4th Gear and stands on the throttle. Not bad eh? Mods - Apexi PowerFC and Datalogit Standard Motor, Standard Cams Standard Exhaust Manifold Garrett GT3037 Turbo. (76mm Compressor, 56trim, 0.6 comp cover,0.63 garret IG rear housing, 60mm turbine, 84trim) at 18psi of boost via Gizmo boost controller. Nismo 555c Fuel Sprayers Hybrid 600x300x75mm FMIC Standard Intake Manifold Boost Cooler Water methanol system, running minimal Water and Meth (Need to top it up every second tank of fuel) Walbro 245lph Fuel Pump Standard FPR All tuning done by ME. Lots of Ignition timing, no knock, and lots of patience. Car is a R33 RB25DET, 1996 model. People I expect to make an appearance here - Dale FZ1 Discopotato03 Cubes anyone else with constructive input. Car is going really well, I think I need to get a new fuel pump to stop that lean at the end of the AFR's. Its not knocking, so I'll just be careful, and limit my revs until I get it fixed. Oh, and apparently the Dynodynamics dyno's in mackay here (there are 2) are reading 10rwkw - 20rwkw MORE than this dyno.

ok ok ok I go slammed with PM's last night, with offers ranging from $300 - $500 not repaired. I'll go through them this afternoon and find out the fairest way to work this out. Talk to everyone that PM'd me later on. I got back to a few of you but I've still got about 5 other Pm's to reply to.

$550. Becuase I'll have to pay for postage to get the strut repaired. $550, and if you give me a $150 deposit, I'll get the strut repaired and then after the final payment send all of them to you (postage to you is on you though)

Hi everyone I have 4 JIC coilovers (2 front, 2 back) to suit a R33 Nissan Skyline GTS-T. These will take you about 1 hour to install. They also come with the special spanners that height adjust them. The Front Passenger Strut has blown a seal, and can be reconditioned via these guys (http://www.shockreco.com.au/reco.htm). They usually charge around $150 for a seal Replacement. They are excellent because i have had them do one of the other shocks. They have excellent service and turn around and are located in brisbane so they are nice and close No one in mackay or near mackay can do this. I can arrange to have the Shock fixed for you, but I won't do it unless I have the funding first. The other 3 are otherwise is good working order, no leaks, and no problems at all. A brand new set of these is around $2000. I am selling my secondhand set for $400 ono. Here is a pic with them installed.

send a PM to Paulr33 he's doing that right now...

ok, I have bailed out for now so anyone can take this

jetdat, can you give me an updat eon my order, and if my other order got posted to the dude that bought it off me? Thanks.

just thought I'd let everyone know that I have first dibs