The Mafia

no Idea man.

Hi Guys, I have a Standard R33 SII ECU and Turbo Heat Shield For sale. $50 for the ECU $30 for the HS Postage is on top of those prices. Thanks Email - paceys[at]gmail.com (for the quickest response) or PM or post here. Thanks guys

can I PLEASE have the Grille? Will Pay $120 PP

I would love to know where this can be done... do you have any leads at all?

lol is there some sort of anti lag and launch control feature? I wish.. f**k I just read it... Its madness, this guy is a god. Do you have a link to the latest build? Save me wading through 400 posts. And he's even considering launch control and antilag...

lol no idea

I've got a friend with a MASSIVE turbo that would do the job perfectly. Its not china shit, its garret. He was going to use it for the exact same thing, but instead, sold the car. Let me know if you want some details - paceys[at]gmail.com @ removed for spam bot f**kers

sounds like your motor is rooted. Time for Forgies, rods, and a bigger turbo Low PSI on cylinder 6 is common for a stuffed RB25. I tested mine at 90,000km, and tested properly, was 169psi accross all cyclinders, and 2% leakdown. Hope its still like that lol

nice little turbo there, should be good for about 240rwkw with supporting mods.

lol...

can I purchase the grille separately?

I'm interested in the SII Front Grille. I'll pay $120 plus post.

with a 5psi actuator, full exhaust, and FMIC, I was spiking to 14psi..

Turbos don't just go "whoops, 14psi, better go bang" etc Going that high will only encourage it to go bang. Any standard skyline turbo forced to make more boost than standard risks going bang. As for the boost spiking... ITS BAD. If you have a tune set to a certain psi and it spikes, this could potentioally lean out the motor and make the entire motor go bang. If your spiking, wind your boost back, if you want your car to stay in one piece. oh, and an electronic boost controller will help prevent spiking.

you make good points. I will add - my car takes 7 - 10 minutes to get to full operating temperature. (75 degrees) BUT I don't wait for the water temp to get that high. I wait for the oil pressure to drop, as the oil being hot and not as thick is more important than water being hot.

It amazes me the amount of people that think they can "fix" a car from stalling with an AFM and atmospheric BOV... The only way to fix it is to plum it back.. There are a lot of people here that don't have a clue eh?

any car that runs a AFM (Skylines!) cannot run Atmospheric wankerized, look at me, whoosh whoosh, fully sick, where are the chicks, Blowoff valves. The Engine reads air.. Inserts fuel. The Atmospheric blow off valve dumps the air before it gets the the engine. Put the stock one back on, or get a plumb back BOV. The other option is to get a Powerfc DJetro with a MAP sensor and then put your spinny twirly whoosh chicks hurricane atmospheric BOV back on, and you'll be fine. So yeah..

we wouldn't pay or fix it. Wanna see what else he did that day?

already have. See that dip? The car now breaks traction at that point. Tuning isn't that hard at all. Just need the datalogit Makes the job childs play

Well guess what. I had my car at the tuner shop for 3 f**king hours. He charged me $300 (plus the other 2 1 hour tunes he "performed" recently before that) and the f**kwit came up with this result. NOw the car has a GT30, 500cc Injectors, powerfc and datalogit, exhaust and fmic, etc etc. Should be making 260rwkw. See the dip in that torque curve? Hooking up my mates AFR revealed that it was running at 9:1 at that point. And this tuner is supposed to be good? My f**ken ass.

Its took me 6 months of research to only partially understand how turbos work when it comes to wheel sizes, housings etc. I highly doubt a t4 will manage 500hp with those covers. I have a Garret GT30, with a .7 Comp Cover, and it needs at least a .86 rear housing to flow enough exhaust to make over 270rwkw. .58? Did that come off a GT Starlet or something? Thats way too small. You car will max out at about 230rwkw.

ahah man, these guys ar raping you. Obviously new. Where are the pics!

why would colder plugs make it fail emmissions?

ahahaha you guys have ridden this thread like a $2 hooker.

ok, I've been stuffing around with plugs for a little while now and have come up with some interesting results: I've used BKR6EYA (6 heat range copper) BKR6EIX (6 heat range iridium tipped) BKR7E - (7 heat range copper) R5671A-8 (8 heat range copper) ok, 6's are fairly ordinary. Iridium are a waste of money... No difference in performance. 7's are fairly ordinary too. No noticable difference. 8's.... I was able to add about 3-4 degrees into the 1\4 load to 3\4 load without detonation. However at full load, I was unable to add ignition advance without detonation issues. But this gave the car a little more punch in the areas that had the advance, obviously, after being able to advance timing, and timing advance = power.. so yeah, just thought I'd share some more of my findings. oh, and no starting issues. When the car is stone cold, it might need to be cranked over for about 1\4 longer than normal, but when hot... not a difference at all..