The Mafia

well, I've turned off o2 feedback, and I'm already seeing much better fuel economy. Will let you all know how it goes. Paul, as far as I can see, it looks like you can adjust what the o2 feedback sets the afr to. Goto settings 1 tab, bottom right hand corner.

no oil squirters? Wouldn't that be bad for the pistons as they cool them and stuff?

hhmmm. So to get me started, I need to find a RB30 block with Turbo provisions, and oil squirters, a crank, and some rods? Would it be worth replacing the old pistons? Or should I just get them re-rung?

I'd like to keep the comp ratio at about 8.3:1 to keep the response nice and crisp. Do you think my GT30 wit the RB25 groundout ass end will max out at some stage? Got a guess on when it would be? I want about 250rwkw - 280rwkw somehow... punchy as f**k too, like REALLY torquey..

ok, so what kind f boost would the standard slugs take at 8.3:1 comprssion? also, is the Na \ turbo block the same, only provisions for oil water on the Turbo block being the only difference?

is it a turbo or non turbo bottom end? What kind of boost is he running? hehehe yeah the dark side sounds good. I just figured I could spend 1k on a water meth kit, or 1k on a 3l bottom end that would do the same job, if not better... 3l sounds good too Maybe I'll get new standard slugs, and get it all balanced, rev her to 7k

ok, I have another question for my quest for low end power and stability: Does this sound ok - 1. RB30DE Non turbo block 2. Get a cheap set of standard pistons, and re-ring them, and hone the bore. 3. New Big end Bearings 4. Standard head gasket, so the Compression is 8.3:1 5. Weld up the VCT and make and external Line for it 6. Slap on my RB25DET head (should Bolt Straight on) 7. Lower Engine Mounts 15mm 8. Drop motor Back in car 9. Grab Datalogit and O2 Sensor and go to town on the bitch... Sound like a better idea than getting a water methanol kit? Questions: 1. How much more power do you think I would achieve? 2. How much boost will the standard RB30 pistons take before splitting in half? 3. Would I need a bigger snail from it being restrictive above 6000rpm 4. Do you think I could make more than 250rwkw on 95ron fuel? 5. Could it be an expensive practice? I can't afford to install $1500 worth of forgies... So don't tell me to get them.. Standard would be fine. The standard rods should hold right? so many questions.. Cubes, you got any information? I've read your RB30DET DOHC doco about 10 times Its great. so yeah.... Let me know... Fuel is my major problem here. Only got 95ron. I want torque, and about 19psi (cause thats the efficiency range of my turbo).

just be careful though, I know every knock sensor is different, but my tuner said that knock in the head phones was audible when the Powerfc read 80 on the hand controller. He said it was JUST audible, like barely audible at 80. So If I keep mine below 40 I will be fine. 100 must be pretty bad though, I saw a few 100's pop up when I upgraded the turbo and had a ghetto tune in before I had a proper tune. Scary when you hear the popcorn sounds..

got no idea, you'd have to check. Its direct fit to an RB25 though

bump

bump. This is one of the best BOV's around guys..

FOR SALE 1. Set of 6 injectors out of my RB25DET SII. They are Side feed, not sure on the impedance though? Made 210rwkw on my SII at 80% Duty Cycle. Where working 100% when pulled (I went to larger injectors) $90 ono 2. RB25DET SII AFM. Worked 100%, pulled it out and replaved it with a bigger one. Mesh is intact, and as I said, it worked 100%. THis also was used when I made 210rwkw. $90 ono Buyer pays postage.

can I grab the front grille off you if you don't need it anymore? Or do you need it for the 400r bar?

without talking shit, I think this is one of the louder ones on the market. Also depends on the amount of boost you are running too. Was loud and had a cool sound on my car. Was running 10psi I was very happy with it.

guys, light load \ cruising in my car at 80kmph and 100kmph is the range of cells N04 - N07 and P03 - P06 What AFR's should I be aiming at here? Also, on full load, what afrs should I be looking at? What about half load? Like half onto boost.... 13's? I am not really sure. The tuner had more car for 3 hours and made stuff all changes. Think I might just tune it myself from now and on...

Item: Blitz DD Fits: RB25 Standard Plumbing, or RB20 Standard Plumbing Price - $230 ono Condition: Like new Working: Yes, Perfect Adjustable - Completely Adjustable, tighten or loosen Sound Good? Definately... Best one I've heard yet. pics - Post here or Email me on [email protected] with offers I will usually reply after 5:30pm. Thanks

what happens if you put the plugs in too tight? I didn't really know how tight to put them in so I tightened them up pretty tight. Don't want them working loose?

well, I fitted the BRK7E's and there is no running difference between the "6" and "7" heat ranges when it come to starting etc. Won't know if they are any better for detonation until I get the car tuned. Yesterday, I borrowed a mates Wideband O2 sensor and went for a LONG drive. Got someone else to drive and hold various throttle positions and managed to move my cruising fuel economy from 200kms per tank to 400kms per tank. done 190kms so far, and guage is a bit above half way. Wonderous joys of the wide band o2 sensor. I am going ot make one of SK's cheap ones I think. Rent the f**ker out to pay for it. heh...

I managed to get the only NGK plug that suits my car in the "7" heat range - BKR7E. This is what I posted in the other thread about spark plugs - ok...I just did the biggest lot of finding this week... Normal plugs for a Skyline RB25det - You want the BKR6EYA's. If you want to go a colder heat range, and stay in Copper, and NGK, get the BKR7E's. As for Denso, IK20's for Iridium (Same as NGK "6" heat range) or the IK22's for Iridium Denso plugs (same as NGk's "7" heat range) Denso copper - K20R-U - (same as NGK's "6" heat range) Denso copper - K22PR-U (same as NGK's "7" heat range) Use this tool, its the best I have ever seen. http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/xref Good luck finding any of the denso's you are after though. here's a few tips also - 1. If the plug has a "-11" on the end, its gapped to 1.1 mm. If it has nothing on the end like this, its 0.8mm - 0.9mm gap. 2. Some have longer necks than others so be careful. 3. If you're running high boost and are running into pre-ignition problems, try "7" heat range (colder plugs) or 22 heat range in denso.

nice work I managed 210rwkw with 13psi, 95 ron fuel and toluene, and yeah the supporting mods (exhaust, powerfc, fmic, standard turbo etc) I'd still get your fuel pump replaced... all that standard one has gotta do is drop pressure while you're on full song and you're f**ked....

ok...I just did the biggest lot of finding this week... Normal plugs for a Skyline RB25det - You want the BKR6EYA's. If you want to go a colder heat range, and stay in Copper, and NGK, get the BKR7E's. As for Denso, IK20's for Iridium (Same as NGK "6" heat range) or the IK22's for Iridium Denso plugs (same as NGk's "7" heat range) Denso copper - K20R-U - (same as NGK's "6" heat range) Denso copper - K22PR-U (same as NGK's "7" heat range) Use this tool, its the best I have ever seen. http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/xref Good luck finding any of the denso's you are after though. here's a few tips also - 1. If the plug has a "-11" on the end, its gapped to 1.1 mm. If it has nothing on the end like this, its 0.8mm - 0.9mm gap. 2. Some have longer necks than others so be careful. 3. If you're running high boost and are running into pre-ignition problems, try "7" heat range (colder plugs) or 22 heat range in denso.

"Well, I've looked at the denso range and apparenty Toyota and ford dealers stock them. I'm confused though... There are so many different types. I want a "7" heat range in the Densos, and if you use the part finder on denso (excellent tool btw) Original Plug : ngk - pfr5g-11 - Denso - PK16PR-L11/PK16PR11 Guy from Coventry's recommended : ngk - pfr7b - Denso site says this si the equavalent - PK22PR8 But there is also a ngk - pfr7b-11 - Denso - PK22PR11 What with the 11 on the end? The Original NGK's had an 11 on the end? What is the 11 for? Would the pfr7b NGK without the 11 on the end and the equavalent Denso still be ok? Wtf? People are telling me some all over the place things. So can any recommend a plug in the denso range that would be a good mix? Looks like my choice will be denso because they still make copper plugs to whatever you want.. And they'll be cheap, for me to experiment with."

"I'm looking for the Bk's but they don't exist as NGK took them off the market, and left the platniums on obviously to make more money, and apparently the BC's cause misfire issues in Skylines (as posted earlier). Also, I called Coventry and they said to use these - ngk - pfr7b - $22 per plug (the original plugs from japan are ngk - pfr5g-11).. But they are still $22 a plug! So no ideas on a reliable, cheaper copper range? I'd prefer copper, if I was going to be forced to get expensive plugs again, I'd just get the iridiums - they took the biggest mofo of a beating - Toluene, octane boosters, tequila and all sorts of shit that went into the tank. Never used platniums before, and plus I'd really like to go cheaper plug so I can experiment without destroying my wallet any further... Because if the 7's go ok.. I'll be tempted to try 8's...Anything to beat this pre-ignition with a stick.."

guys I can't find copper tipped "7" heat range ANYWHERE! can anyone help me? NGK stopped their line of copper "7" plugs in favour of the platnium plugs that cost much much more... Are their any other brands that anyone can suggest?

be thankful, I am doing 210kms to a FULL tank.... after being tuned!