The Mafia

1. Not sure on this one, I might need to contact them, as I am planning on doing the same thing 2. $35

is there anything in that manual under the warning indicator section? There is a spot that describes all the warning codes on the dash.

you sir, are a champion. I've pm'd my details to you. SAU is f**king lucky to have members like yourself, and Sydneykid. SK if you have any other additions, be my guest.

keen if anyone can answer my q's a couple of posts back

I can see nos!

well, I dunno for the standard turbo cause I didn't tune it properly like this before I took the stocko turbo off and put a 550hp garrett on. I really wish I could go back and spend another 2 months on the standard turbo and make all these adjustments. I could have made it a very dangerous car... But I was at full boost at about 3000rpm.. started spooling at about 2200rpm like yours. Wanker tuners only tuned it to WOT, and thats it. Charged me $500 to do it too. f**ken rip off tossers. I've got knowlege now. I'll have them by the nuts when they are tuning my car again, making sure they don't rip me off, the fcukers. So how do you know when you are hitting too much? Its hard to say... maybe those head phone things they use? Anyone got any ideas? SK ? lol

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard. Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!! The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right? Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%? Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad? But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier............... Does this sound right? Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher) I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version. Everyone says "no, go the link or haltek" but I think the powerfc and a datalogit would be just as good, and even better because it comes with the trusty old hand controller. Constant knock monitoring by graph, and you can give it a quick adjustment if you need too. All of those other ecus as far as I know need a laptop to do anything? Although I do know the link has its own hand controller... But I have seen it.. Its crap.

probably just get the afr's checked to make sure it isn't running lean. A dyno tuner can do this in about 15 mins. Lean makes things hot, and will make a turbo glow red, but it ispretty normal. If your afr's are fine, and its glowing red, then cool

did you buy a bov with the biggest trumpets?

so you're saying that if you turn the boost up or down, the maps or something will scale up or down accordingly, delivering different amount of fuel? Kinda like that factory ECU? ie, Boost up, more fuel is used, boost down, less fuel is used etc. ?? I'm a little confused. I just thought the maps would inject the same amount of fuel, regardless of the boost..

Hey paul, I just went for a drive and did a full ign adjustment out of boost. Do you know how to use the map tracer? This was mine, driving normally, only reving to about 3800rpm, and cruising at 60 and 80.

what should I look at to correct this? Maybe drop the cat for an initial test? Maybe the wastegate hole isn't big enough?

heheh everyone always thinks they aren't getting enough fuel. Ever wondered why your car blows black smoke under load? Its because the stock ECU runs rich as f**k. Dude, as soon as you increase the boost, there is more air in the cylinder, causing there to be more resistance between the plug gaps, causing them to miss fire. Before you touch your fuel pump, or anything else, GAP YOUR PLUGS. Its the easiest, and first thing you should do. This is a VERY well known thing with the RB25det, and any other forced induction car. You need to GAP YOUR PLUGS. Do it first, THEN look at other things.

sorry to hear about this man.

what the ? how did you do that??

no modifications what so ever to the waste gate port. And I am running the garret actuator with it. No problems. With the gate fully open, the most boost it will make is 4psi, max.

Yeah, pretty much. As soon as they get their act together and tell me what version they need, I will get everyoens contact details, provide mine, and start collecting money for the guys we are gonig to purchase these datalogits off. Then I will supply the guys all of our addresses so they can dispatch them to us. They can be bought anywhere but if you want to pay extra and get the one that they supply, go for it. Also, I am an IT support Professional. I will tell you one thing, serial may be old school, but its very stable and will have less conectivity issues than usb. If you wanna run windows 98, forget about it. Too much trouble.

yeah sorry mate, I've been screwed around. Give me $50 for the unit, and $10 to post it, and I will lock you in, regardless of other higher bids. Just as a token of good will, as you've been pretty faithful in chasing it.

ok, heres a few nice little things for you all to have a look at. All prices are EX freight. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. Stainless Turbo Duct. This also comes with the Partition. This makes some really awesme noise..Trust me... Custom made, and fitted my SII R33 GTS-T like a glove. Also, the workmanship is absolutely perfect. You will NOT be disapointed. $200 or best offer Looks like this when assembled. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. Series II Wastegate actuator. Works 100%. 7 psi. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. Apexi AVCR, its the older style electronic boost controller. I think there is something wrong with the boost solenoid so I cannot guarantee that it will work for you, so don't buy it expecting it to work. The head unit is working 100%. Comes with all neccessary wiring. $$make an offer$$ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4. Driver Side Electric Mirror. This is one I have now spare. I had some malicious damage to my original and had to buy this one while I waited for insurance to pull their finger out of their ass. The Mirror is in 100% working order, and there is a perfect glass in it. The motors are all working perfect and aren't slow or anything. $150 ono (these are $850 from nissan) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5. Nissan Skyline R33 1996 Series 2 ECU - Was in perfect working order when I took it out and replaced it with a powerfc. $150 obo

added... You wanna hope so

here is a bump, and I will also add my ecu. pm's sent. Turbo and fuel pump is sold.

Team america - f**k YEAH hehe yeah pulls harder off boost, but then catches boost and starts chirping in second lol so yeah, hit boost and starts going like your mum - an animal (hehehe jokes) I wouldn't say its like na at all

3. Stolly - Datalogit Version -??? 4. Snowman - Datalogit Version -??? 6. yogi000 - Datalogit Version -??? Come on guys! Where the hell are you.. PM's SENT, if you don't reply, I am gonig to remove you from the list.

lol actually, the car is much punchier down low with this turbo, as it must be able to breathe easier because the turbine isn't creating as much resistance being a ball bearing. and I said, 7psi = about 200rwkw... Its definately not N\A like... With a good launch, chirps all the way through second I'm running an internal gate. No problems here.. With the wastegate completely open, it makes a max of 3psi boost.

I said it before and I'll say it again, higer boost puts out the fire... gap your plugs