The Mafia

but those need collars which require around another $300 I priced it and it worked out to be $900 all up. If I was going to spend $900, I'd get a set of nismos that bolt straigh in. I contacted nengun and they didn't really have any idea if those sards would go straight in and just directed me to the collars. And its risky, cause nengun doesn't have a returns policy.. SK, can you guarantee me that those will install into a R33 S2 without the need for collars? If so, I would order them.

are these any good? Can anyone say? I'm interested.

I'd seriously look at another tuner. Just had a look at my graph, I'm making about 180 at 5000rpm..

if that exhaust is turbo back, and you have a high flo cat, this car should pull some decent figures. Either your engine is worn out, Or I'd start looknig for another tuner. I make 210rwkw on a completely stock turbo, full exhaust, fmic, and pfc. No reason why your car shouldn't be 240rwkw - 260 rwkw with a decent tune.

hehehe I am scared now. I have a R33 Series II 96', and I just got a GT30 with a VG30 ass end on it (which is a .63) so yeah... maybe I should sell it before I wrap it around a tree? What ECU was he running? oh, and my car just got compression tested - 169 accross all cylinders.. So the motor will be in pristine condition for this nice big turbo...

how how long did this "rajab" racing built motor last? $3k - $5k sounds a little low for 11 second passes

what size exhaust housing do they have? .63?

buy an adapter... There are heaps around..

spend $900 more on a brand new powerfc, and get about 50% more power.

probably because its just basic knowledge on how the system works. Like very basic knowledge. BOV will only sound if your foot is snapped off the throttle. Is your foot coming off the throttle when you use the tiptronic? ......

another vote for the powerFC. If you decrease your boost to 11psi, and make sure it doesn't go any higher with with spikes etc, the standard ecu will run great. BUt yeah, I have a powerc, and I'm running a brilliant tune.

I use Shell Helix 5w 40 and replace it every 5000 - 6000 kms I really do hope the tuner looks after it too.

awesome, thanks for that. Looks like I got me a little gem.

Car is a R33 Series II 1996 Skyline GTS-T, 90,000 kms. Had 72,000 when I got it. 168,169,169,168,169,169 - 2% leakdown. Car has been running 12psi 210rwkw 420nm torque for about 12 months now, and I am not the most steady driver. I don't mind getting out and getting on boost a lot. With all that sorted, next weekend, on goes the 550hp GT30. Is this a good result? I thought it was.

well, when I put the wrong AFM selection in my powerfc, my car does the exact same thing. Idles up and down, black smoke, and stalls. I'd be looking at the AFM right away. And don't worry, AFM is no biggie.

like this

here's my educated guess - Its an RB20 coming on boost at about 5000rpm. Thats gotta be a .86 exhaust housing. Plus the fact the its a dirty old t04e turbo, which will be a roller bearing. He needs a nice little HKS2530 or something arouind that size, or even a hiflo job of a T3 or t28. But overall, he needs a turbo with a .63 or smaller exhaust housing and it needs to be a ball bearing turbo. Now, if you have the money, I'd look at what they have said, a Boost controller with a pneumatic spring or an electronic one to prevent wastegate creep, but I'd also look at either cams or a exhaust cam gear to bring it on earlier again.

you have a crack in one of your hoses. I had this very same problem, and I went to a engine part shop, and replaced the $180 nissan one with a $4 red one. Once you have got it on and sealed, you'll need to refil it, and start the car, and full lock the steering left and right about 10 times to get all the air out. Very simple job, took me less than an hour. Requires f**k all tools

stock, with my boost all over the place (5psi to 5500rpm, then 10 psi to 7000rpm) I ran a 14.8 with a 2.1 launch.

ahhh shit, what colour smoke is it? That doesn't sound good at all. you might want to get a leakdown and compression test. (about $70) But if you want a car that sounds awesome, and goes well. Here's my setup. FMIC Power FC and full tune Full Exhaust, split dump, high flow cat Stainless Turbo to AFM duct Boost at 12psi Via $30 bleed valve (fine for stock turbo, but not for standard ecu) if you want awesome sound, and you want to hear the stock blowoff valve, do this -

yeha, you better tell me too

ok, I can help here because I went throught the exact same scenario. The injector duty cycle should drop to about 80% after you get it tuned. The engine light, is infact the AFM maxing out at 6000 - 6500 rpm onwards. This is ok, I've been running it like this for about 8 months. Engine light flashes all the time on high revs showing the afm. My knock never goes above 20 on the graph in all gears. And remember, juast because you can't hear it knocking, doesn't mean it isn't. When you aren't playing with settings, always leave your HC on the knock graph. and remember if you give the car a quick squirt, and you want to check the knock, you've go 10 seconds before its pushed off the graph. Press I think the left or right key will pause. I'm running 210rwkw, with your same setup. About to upgrade to a GT30...

can't be done at all. You need the purchase the RB26 version of the powerfc. Don't even try it.

I'm doing this and the reason you need the spaceer is because ht compressor cover hits the exhaust manifold when you rotate it to fit. It is also a little close and will mst likely draw in alot of heat. also, its handy to make the rest of the plumbing fit. GT30's are hard to low mount, but do-able.

lol I am putting a GT30 on this weekend *subscribes to thread*