The Mafia

can also mean a stuffed turbo bearing... But that has an added grinding noise. But on rare instances.

called them and showed them I wasn't happy, and they are gonig to pull it out and install another. Still... Its an invonvenience.

if I were you, I'd have a look back about 3 days in the section, you'll find a brand new type of ECU that shits on most of the others. Its cost is abour $1700 and I am seriously considering selling my PowerFC to grab one. Powerfc's are ok, but you get what you pay for - $950 ECU = basic. $1700 = ****en awesome.

I just put some system in... The Keyring has "Majicar" on it. I don't reccomend this system... Its fcuking shit... The remote start can be handy, but not when the fcuking thing tries to start the car a few more times AFTER the car has already started. Autobard has fitted it, and its dodgey as... I'm not happy with the service, and the workmanship, and I don't know what to do about it. Its fcuking crap. What do any of you guys suggest I do? $350 to install, and $450 for the system. The only thing good about it is the Window Winders.

You'll find with all these other mods, your car would benifit ALOT from a turbo dump.

thats awesome advice. So your saying that I won't need to change the intake cam at all? I want the car to sound a little lumpy, but not too lumpy to be a daily driver. I'm more interested in torque increase.. From Low to Mid range.

ahahahah ****, new sig.

would be easy. Just get a split dump and wastegate pipe made up. Instead of plumbing the waste gate line back into the exhaust.... Let it be free...

As per thread Title R33 Drivers Side Electric Mirror, working 100%. Silver, but needs to be painted, due to scratches. I bought it second hand, to temporarily replace mine while I was waiting for insurance to come through. Glass is perfect There is a larger scratch in the paint underneath that you can't see in the pic, but as I said, you'll need to paint it any way. $140 I've been on SAU for a long time, I can give you all of my details, and no, I am not going to rip you off. I'm a good, honest, Aussie trader.

www.nengun.com have the kits at $500 I think thats a pretty good deal, considering what it is. Its been tried before, and I don't think you can actually make the cable.. Apexi has done something to prevent this.

Just curious... I want to put some cams on to increase the torque and mid range. My Power Mods - Power FC + HC Full Exhaust (hi flo cat, split dump, very free flowing exhaust) Stainless Turbo to AFM Pipe Shielded Pod Filter 600x300x75 FMIC 12psi HKS Exhaust cam gear set at 0 degrees Stock Turbo, stock motor, stock everytyhing else. Heres my dyno - I want to get a set of tomei cams, but the problem is I know nothing about cams...at all.. I know they can make the car idle rough, but that isn't too much of a problem for me. I just want all that torque. So... does anyone have any educated suggestions? I also want to accomodate for a bigger turbine later on down the track...

Well, to be honest, I Wasn't chasing top power. I was chasing torque. Thats where its at. I'm addicted to whiplash, and breaking traction. But also, Torque is what gets you good quarters...

I want to see it. Can you email it to me? paceys[at]gmail.com

mine isn't chopped, I just looked at the sheet, and it doesn't have that bit at the botom either, which I also think is strange. oh shit.... I forgot to mention TOLUENE hehehe I run a 10% mix... Thats probably why I have a higher power figure, because skylines loooove timing advances when the fuel permits. So, here are my power mods - Steel Turbo To AFM Pipe Shielded Pod Full Exhaust - Large Split Dump, High Flo Cat, Good flowing Muffler and cannon Turbo Has no Shaft Play - We checked it Engine Compression is good FMIC (600x300x75) with Stock Plenum 10% Mix of Toluene and timing Advance Apexi Power FC with hand Controller HKS Exhaust Cam gear set at 0 Degrees (lost power when adjusted) Carbom Canister Disconnected No Oil Catch Can :headspin: DNA Motorsport Bleed Valve set at 12psi.

yeah, don't expect if to fit, mine didn't. I just used one fo the old brackets, and put in some foam to stop it from moving and getting jarred.

yeah it was set to some sort of shootout mode, done on a dynodynamics dyno. Its fairly close because i have had it done on 2 different dyno's reealing much the same figures. btw, my car has only done 88,000 genuine kms. Maybe that has something to do with it too. oh, and simple things like this -

Sure do. But its not that impressive.... My clutch is stuffed... I ran a 13.6 but things you've got to look at.. Clutch Stuffed 18" Low Profile Tyres at 12psi JIC Coilovers lowered so the tyres are almost under the guard. Mind you, I managed 2.1 sec Launch.. (I think) I was stoked! I'll try and find the time slip. When I get new tyres and clutch, I'll give it another go, and most certainly let you guys know.

I have been doing alot of research on this (haven't done it though) but in alot of cases, I wouldn't go for the 1.06ar exhaust housing, due to MASSIVE lag on a RB25. I have a friend that has this turbo on his 95 supra (3.0l) and it hits full boost at 4200rpm. A guess at full boost on a rb25 would be 4500 - 5000rpm!!! Thats way too much lag for me. I'm not an expert, but thats my opinion. I hate lag, so I am going to eventually purchase something with a .63ar exhaust. If you are looking at big power, I'd go a .83ar exhaust. Not sure on the Compressor size though.. SK might have an idea if he reads this thead.

mine too. With a powerfc, you are stupid to think that you can just "give her a bit more boost" As soon as you do that, it leans, and goes bang. Fuel Maps do what they are told, and nothing else. I really wonder why people have this need to Have "hi and low boost" To me, its High and low WANK. If you need a low boost setting to drive slower, you shouldn't be on the road. Wasn't aiming this at anyone, just my opinion.

I've got FMIC 3inch split Dump back with a hi flo cat PowerFC Boost set at 12psi 209.3 rwkw 420nm Torque Stock Turbo, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock engine, stock cams etc. You DO NOT need a SAFC with a powerfc, thats just stupid, and will most likely cause major problems.

these things are great, they make the best sound, and don't colapse... (A friend of mine tigged mine shown in the picture) Also, people should look at getting a shield like this made up.. Closes flush with the bonnet. btw, there is a hole under the pod for intake On 12psi, you can hear me coming a mile away.

Moved my post to here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...136#post1337136

did you know that you can buy the software and interface (to plug your powerfc into a laptop) for very close to the $500 mark from www.nengun.com Same legit Genuine Apexi gear the Apexi Shops use to tune.

check the airflow meter setting in hte powerfc hand controller. If you set the setting to something other than what you have, it will cough and splutter when trying to rev after 2500rpm, and stall when the revs come back down. You will also blow alot of black smoke. I know this because my mate ****ed around with the powerfc setting and chaged the afm type. Had me stumped until I had a look.

The only place is the hole where the old intercooler piping used to go through the guard. I am thinking about routing more cold air to it, but it seems to be fine sucking air like that