The Mafia

yeah mine is like this too, its bad when the car is cold, and not bad when its hot. I find the worst are 1st > 2nd Cold 4th > 5th hot and under load 3rd > 4th Hot and under load

well, I'd prefer the nice, loud whirring whistling noise coming from my engine bay, while my turbo is collecting boost. The Plumb back BOV still makes a whoosh, but not a high pitched bullshit one. Its a nice deep thunder, but not that loud. I get the most head turns when its sucking its ass off.

managed to run a 13.6 down the quarter mile in Mackay here. Hardcore lowered JIC Coilovers (disadvantage) 18" 235 Tyres (20psi) And a dirty pod filter. What do you guys think? I reckon I could get more out of it

easy as piss to install. Remove Kick panel, and old ecu, roughly mount powerfc in there and plug in. Job done, start car..

PowerFC, get one and You won't regret it. I did, and my car is a rocket now.

someone should change the heading to "I want more wank factor to extend my manhood"

where are you going to be this afternoon mick? I shall come for a look. Call me or MSN me and we'll arrange a meeeting place

I'll find some time and come for a ride with you michael, and try and see what is wrong with your line. Do you have an aftermarket boost guage? Whats it reading?

I am not sure, I think I am running the stocko, but the Mechanic Says its aftermarket..

just remember, I am only running 11psi, and I have a cat. Anything over 14psi is flogging your sII turbo hard and don't expect it to last long. Whats your detonation levels like?

dude have you ever considered that your turbo might be stuffed? I know that its a long shot but it is worth checking...

nah, 95 ron fuel (all we got) and with a 8 - 10% mix of toluene I am going to have to keep putting it in or it might ping the mechanic says. Better for the car anyway

never dealt with them before, not mates rates but it cost - $690, but they - ****ed around with the cam gear (with no results) still at 0 degrees (any movement lost nearly 30rwkw) over 30 dyno runs, used over 12 tank! New Timing Belt Radiator removed and install twice (once to put the gear on, and once to put the cam cover back on) Coolant Flush 2 days worth of tune Guy stayed late working out the PFC Showed me heaps about it

ok, I spoke to my mechanic thismorning, and he said that whenever he adjusted the cam gear, he reset the Base timing with a timing light, this guy is pretty on the ball even though he hasn't really done a cam gear before on a skyline. He didn't really know what to expect. Maybe the Series II's have differenty VVT or something, and the power is already tehre, and just needs a PFC to tap into it? He said it was very easy to get that power, but didn't want to go too much further because he didn't want to risk detonation. I reckon thats awesome power for only 10.5 - 11psi, and its so smooth, doesn't hit hard, its like got heaps of torque from the word go. Pull the hardest at about 5k though. Awesome to drive now.

its getting on my nerves too.. hehehe, bastard..

These where my results. The cam gear is still set at 0 Degrees, and the champion god sydney Kid has some great ideas that will help me, because the cam gear at 4 degrees made the car lose power, a total of 30rwkw. But as sydney kid said, the cam gear needs to be set at 4 degrees and the ignition timing on the CAS needs to be checked with a timing light. Will pay him a little more to check it tomorrow. **** the car is fast now.... Like really fast. This is all at 11psi - here are my mods Enclosed Pod Filter Hybrid Intercooler Stock Plenum Stock Turbo, and unopened motor Full split Dump and front pipe, 3 inch High Flow Cat 3.5 inch cat back, small muffler and 4 inch cannon Apexi Power FC with Hand Controler (Nengun July Special for $1149 delivered..) **** it's got some balls now.

I am going to start another thread about it, but he left the cam gear at 0 degrees and went and tuned the powerFC. Here are the results. Sydneykid, I appreciate your input, and will most certainly let him know. He is a very very experienced mechanic, but hey, not everyone can know everything. I am sure he will love the information, and most certainly try it. I love the world of free knowledge.

I have just had a HKS Adjustable Exhaust cam gear fitted to my R33 Series II GTS-T 96 model. ITs got a powerfc, full exhaust and split dump, pod filter, 11psi, and 10% mix of toluene. My mechanic, very respected, (just got 300rwkw out of a VL turbo that day for an example just tuning it) put the cam gear in, and set it to 1,2,3,4 degrees retard, and 2,3,4 degrees advance, and every position the car lost power, The only position the car made good power was at 0 degrees. Anyone seen this before? I thought 4 degrees retard was supposed to make more power in the bottom end? He's tuning the power FC and has managed to push it from 160rwkw to 180 so far, and like 2 hours He says there is more to go yet

does this one have a window winder option? oh, and you have the same silk bed sheets as me..lol

I have a R33 Turbo Series 2, and my sticker is purple.. Well I am pretty sure it is. If the sticker is orange, its a Z32, the higher flow AFM. This one is good...very good

ahhh this is crap, doesn't work no matter where you ground it. How the hell do you fix this problem...? Anyone have anymore ideas?

I haven't done it yet, but the problem is shitting me off to the max. I have 1100mv on the powerFC at idle (700rpm) and at 2000rpm in 5th gear on flat highway, its at 2500mv - 2700mv ****en big cough at around 6500rpm gearchange if changed hard.. this is what I am gonig to do, find the earth, chop it off the AFM and wrap it up, and then solder a new earth onto the AFM and ground it somewhere on the motor or the chassis. Anyone know a good spot?

well, its easy. We did it in about 30 mins on my Series II R33. You'll need this tube of stuff that is pretty much a liquid gasket, put alot on and join the pipes. I have forgotten that name, but its good shit. Sets when the heat gets into it. You'll need some bolt off, and a good socket set. The ONLY hard part about doing this is the dump pipe. Getting it off the back of the turbo without snapping bolts. If you can do this, then it will be a walk in the park. I suggest putting the car on a hoist, or over a pit, and going to work. I am lucky enough to have a mate that has a hoist, just to work on all of our cars, and that helps 500%. Hoists are like a gift from god, when you have access to one easily. But its not a hard job, just be prepared if you snap a bolt or something like that. Also, its easy to just take the exhaust off from the back of the front pipe all in one piece. Then do the dump on its own

I've got only one thing to say. Fcuk you are awesome. Thanks. There is a 4wd dyno here in mackay, and the tuner is very very good. He knows his shit. Let me know if you want anymore details

sydneykid, are you sure that the powerfcs are tuned advanced? Because I threw my PFC in and put in 95 octane fuel (nothing higher here) and went for a strap after all of the self tuning and learning, and no detonation. The knock level on the graph I have seen no higher than 10 100, but it did hit like one tiny spike to 40 100 once, in third gear full load at about 5000rpm.This has only happened once. I use the overall timing compensation, and advance it 5 degrees, and the car runs so much better, but still no detonation. I can't hear it, or feel it, or see it on the HC. What else should I be looking out for?