The Mafia

You see my point. As for the second part of your post. My friend had one of these "chipped" ECU's, and also had a 550HP turbo bolted onto a custom manifold (that he made) and a full 4inch Stainless exhaust which he also made himself. This car had a custom intake system (Dual R33 Throttle bodies) and this car made around the 220 mark. A little while after, the motor blew up because of this "chip" Be very careful son.

the series 1 and 2 have boost cut at 12psi and more. Without that little nissan boost controller colenoid connected you would only be running 5 psi. The nissan one bleeds of a little, and runs the car at 7 psi after around the 4500rpm mark.

I am very skeptical about dyno readings. 194 for those sorts of mods sounds a little unbelievable. On a dyno Dynamics dyno, I got 142 at 8 PSI and I had a full exhaust installed. My mate that owns the dyno said that they can make the readout what ever they want.. So if a non-honest mechanic wants to rip you off, he can do some mods, and make it dyno higher so you think he has done well. The Stock ECU (even chipped ) and stock turbo are not capable of making anymore than 160rwkw - 180rwkw max.. (180 max is being generous)

Well, I have seen them for $150, and would like to know if they are any good. If they arem't, I'll just go the $200 and get the Tomei Brand. Let me know what you think. THanks

is there much involved in getting a Nissan patrol clutch into my R33? Its it a bad or good idea? What kind of parts are involved other than the clutch plate?

ahahah the bitterness mate... chin up..

hehe I forgot this thread, its very old. I have a R33 96' now.. (see sig)

Well, one of my good friends is nearly completion of his RB25, he's just waiting for a few small things to come so he can drop his motor into his skyline. Hes installed - Forged Wysco pistons New RIngs (engine been re bored) N1 Oil Pump Link ECU Dual Throttle Body Plenum (home made, work of art, will have to get pics) Bigger Injectors and fuel Pump Looking at a bigger sump And what you can see in the pics Probably more I have forgotten to list These pictures are infact with his OLD turbo, which has just been reconned, and he is selling with the manifold, dump and full 4 inch exhaust. (could be pending a sale) The exhaust manifold, and dump pipe are all his own work, as he is a boilermaker, and really knows his shit.. (he can Tig + Mig weld...stainless etc) He has done my car and every job he has done is better than any shop around town. If you are interested in getting a custom one made up... Let me know and I'll ask him for you. Can be normal steel or stainless. This turbo is rated at 500 HP. His new turbo is Rated at 700HP. This Car, should be able to push out around the 300 rwkw mark. (my guess) anyways.. on with the pics.. (quality isn't that good because they were all taken with my phone) These last two are of my own car -

I was just about to say that all the way to +7 = 14psi halfway = 7psi But that guage is shit, get an aftermarket one

yeah, don't belive anyone that says that auto's are shit, because they aren't. DO what RNS11Z says, and then bomb your motor, and you'll have a nice little car that will change quick, and be good in straight line drags

bah, just spend the money on a filter, Front mount, Full exhaust and ECU, and get the engine pushingclose to 200rwkws, and then worry about the auto.

I am going to get myself a slightly weaker actuator... something that opens at 10 psi, because this one opensat 14psi. This should effectively drop my Boost by 4 PSI. That way if I wat more, I can use a bleed valve. I don't know if this is going to solve the problem though.. .COuld create more. Anyone actually had this problem before?

thats what I thought.. He said it should start creeping open at 5psi.. I am thinking, as soon as the engine creates pressure, its going to blow the wastegate open ... and blow all my boost with it.. This is fcuked, there is no - one in this stupid town that can give me a straight answer. I hate mackay because its full of "I know it all but are wrong" rednecks.

nah its not that, because my split dump pipe is awesome, and flows heaps, and can hold 10psi boost at 7,000. I spoke to my mechanic and told him my findings. He said the actuator should be creeping open at 5psi. Mine starts creeping at 14psi. I thought it might have had extra tension because of engine pressure, but he said no.

still problems...I am going to burn it soon...Geez its frustrating

ok.. The actuator opens fully at 14psi. This is about right, because it needs a little tension from the exhaust pressure trying to force it open while the engine is producing pressure.. This is how the car is - 0 - 5,000rpm = 9-10psi 5,000 - 5,700rpm = surges to 12-14psi, and boost cuts, dumps fuel, retards timing etc (factory ECU) 5,700 - 7,000rpm car goes back to 10psi, more power again

but your missing the point. With a hose connected from the pressure side of the turbo, directly to the wastegate, it still overboosts, rather than going to 7psi (stock actuator setting) And yes, I have a brand new aftermarket SplitFire guage.

Hi guys. Fitted a Custom Split Dump pipe, full exhaust, high flow cat Pod Filter (With bracket and plate to separate from engine bay) Stainless Steel Turbo Snout FMIC and tried 3 different boost controllers. My Car is overboosting something cronic. When I accellerate hard, the boost will try and hit 15psi+ (and boost cuts, retards, dumps fuel etc) I have tried 3 different boost controllers, 2 being bleed valves, 1 being a apexi AVC-R. We took the actuator hose off, and fed it 20psi from and air compressor, and it moved open and shut freely. The car still overboosts. Can anyone give me a hint etc on why its doing this? A mechanic quoted me $500 for an actuator and wastgate for my stock turbo. Then I have got to add labour onto this!!

I have EXACTLY the same problems guys, so your not alone. Except, by turbo boost at 10 psi no matter what i do. I can't wind it back at all...which is weird.. I have a Custom Split Dump Pipe, intercooler, and full exhaust. And one mother****nig stupid ECU...

I am having the exact same problem. I have a Series II 96 with 77,000kms on it. It was in absolute immaculate condition when I got it, and it still is. I have a FULL exhaust (custom dump and front in one which my best mate made from stainless, high flow cat, and 4 inches after the cat), a Front mount 600x300x76, boost running at 7psi until it hits 5,000 rpm, then goes to 10psi. If I open up the Apexi AVC-R the car boost cuts, and the dyno reads 30kw's less at the wheels. Its pissing me off seeing this little power. At 9PSI, the car only did 142rwkws.

interested if you can send me some photos [email protected]

Do you use it? Geez.....the car goes awesome with a 5% mix of it... I drove without it and hated it because my car was slow again.. Its awesome stuff

Guy I have been told that toluene can destroy the tips of these NGK BKR6EIX iridium plugs. I have a R33 GTS-T 96 Series II. Mods - Custom 3" Split Dump and Front pipe (all one piece) Custom Exhaust, 3.5" after the cat, 4 " Through the cannon FMIC - 600 x 300 x 76 K&N Pod Filter, Plated off from the engine AVC-R Running stock boost off, 10 PSI on.. ok... The car has flat spots everywhere I run toluene, and the car is improved. I changed the plugs but some guys told me that the toluene would destroy these iridium plug's tips. Can anyone verify this? Their product code is BKR6EIX. Also, any idea on the flat spots? It actually seems quicker on low boost than high boost. Its moderately average on power until I hit 5,500rpms.. I have spoken to the mechanic I see and he see he'll advance the timing and that will make a big difference to it. Anyone have any ideas...maybe a fuel pump or something?

[email protected] - send to me too

can you let me know? Will buy if it has the right connector that is in my car.