The Mafia

hey everyone I have been googling for about half an hour and can't find anything. well not yet anyway. I need to know the lag times for this injector so that I can apply adjustments in a powerfc. This is the model number: 1001-87096 800cc top feed Lime Green Can anyone help? Thanks

it is there for a reason. Nissan put it there after spending millions in research. I do not know why the first thing people have to f**k with is the BOV. Leave the BOV alone. Get yourself a panel filter and an exhaust, and eventually a front mount intercooler. "Blocking a hole" isn't going to magically get you some horsepower and make the car run better otherwise nissan would have done it.

No worries at all

I got one. Give me $30 and it's yours.

yeah it is to be honest. The aquamist is a system fully designed to mimic a fuel injection system. The Snow performance system had its problems like: - If the car sat for a while, or you drove it off boost a lot the hose leading up to the nozzle would be empty. So if you came onto boost after driving without spraying for a while you'd get a quick ping when the car is under a lot of load. - Its a messy kit - All pressure and flow is controlled by adjusting the pump voltage (Other kits have the pump on full time, and pushing pressure behind a solenoid injector. The solenoid controls the volume of WM going in) - Plastic tank had a f**king piece of shit lid that fell off and didn't screw on properly. Chinese shit. - Nozzles deteriorate quicker than you think - Nozzle "holder" was poor design. Very hard to not get the nozzle jammed in there. - The plastic bends and fittings go hard, crack and split after a year or two. This stops the kit from working. - The hose supplied is crap etc etc it did work very well, but I decided that for the life of my engine, I would much rather a kit that is more reliable and has better quality parts.

And for anyone else in the market for a kit, my advice after owning am average system (snow performance), get a REAL kit. These are real kits: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ They have a high speed solenoid that pretty much injects the water like a fuel injector. You simply cannot go wrong with this setup. Its worth the extra $$ to. A kit failure means a possible blown engine at high RPM \ Boost.

I was using 275ml \ min nozzles, and the methanol did not change my AFR at all. I eventually tuned my car to 12.8:1 AFR and 20psi on boost on a Standard unopened 100,000km old RB25. I was heading towards 13:1 AFR but decided to sell the motor and start building a RB25\30 to play with. Car made 320rwkw in the end, 750nm of torque at 3,000rpm in 4th. The rear housing on the GT3037 was only a 0.63. I pushed that f**ker to its limits. You know, I am not 100% sure, but I am almost certain that the water \ steam in the cylinder would act as a retardant in the combustible mix, cooling the fuel and air, causing it to become less combustible (and prone to detonation). Methanol gets very cold when atomized. it will definitely cool the intake charge before it hits the cylinder. Fuel does this too. (Hence why some people have to run richer mixtures)

My kit started at 4psi. You are wasting your time if you want to start your WMI at 15psi. You want to make it spray water when the car is under the biggest load - comming onto boost. Being able to advance the timing in this area means you can also bring boost on quicker. Also, I left a water meth mix for nearly a month and it was ok. I mixed it in 2L bottles, and kept one spare. Here is a tip also, if you are planning a big drag racing day, surround your WMI bottle with ice and insulation, and put out of the fridge mixture in there. I found it to be even better

I ran 50% water and 50% methanol. 2L of mix lasted about a tank of fuel without much thrashing. Nope. Its actually the water that increases the octane of the fuel. Octane is the amount of retardant in the fuel. The water "gets in the way" and makes it harder to light under extreme pressures, and burn slower. You want your fuel to burn slow, not fast. The longer the fuel is burning for the longer it is pushing on the piston. This means more torque. The methanol drops the temps a bucket load - Mist some over your hand with a spray bottle and tell me how cold it is. The combustible properties of the methanol are not intentionally used.

Pics of my install on the second page of the link in my sig

I would never go for a "on \ off" type switch setup. Progressive is where it is at.

I'm here lol, what would you like to know? oh and - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/126278-water-methanol-injection-installation-pics/

Hi Everyone I have to suit a R32 \ R33 \ R34 GTR 2 x HKS 2530s with the rear housings HPC'd 2 x Tomei Extreme Exhaust manifolds HPC'd 2 x HKS Dump Pipes HPC'd 2 x R33 GTR exhaust Sensors 2 x HKS Actuators GTR oil and water lines attached. These did 5,000 kms before they were taken off and HPC'd. They were never put back on. They are like new. This is quite an expensive Kit, but it will completely bolt on and provide you with 400awkw if you have the rest of the supporting mods. I'm looking for offers around $4,100. The turbos alone are worth $4k new. I will send this stuff packaged better than you have ever seen, and payment must be made in a secure manner. You are welcome to search me up on this forum, I have been a reliable member for many years. Pics are attached: (If you want more just let me know)

Problem is if he does take it there, and his shitty engine build with missing gaskets and only god knows what else, blows up, then he'll blame the tuner.

Dynos are all different. You do a run before, make changes, and do another run and see what the difference is. Most numbers are a load of horse shit, especially if you have a dodgy operator.

Did anyone participate in the MADD drift day? Got quite a few calls for tunes so it must have been pretty successful at attracting a crowd, and getting people interested in the sport. I might have to buy something purely to drift. No idea what though lol.

Lol, well, it's not a lie

The RB20 is what you scientifically call a "Boat-ius-anchor-ous" Throw it away and put the RB25 in there.Cheaper power and much more torque. That is where your money is better spent, guaranteed. The RB20 loom can be adapted to the RB25 fairly easily I think. There are plenty of people that have done it around here.

I wouldn't buy any of that junk that you "need an answer by today" Nistune is clearly the best and cheapest option for you.

But then you risk a leak between the oil pump and the sump? I end up puckering my as$hole when reading a fair bit of stuff in this thread. Lol.

Don't apologize to me, apologize to yourself for creating at least 2 days more work, money, and car off the road. You have a stupidly long thread that many people are subscribed to, and you didn't ask? I though it was common sense that no two metal surfaces that keep in a liquid under pressure go together without a gasket?

There wasn't a gasket so you just didn't put one on and used sealant? That's te stupidest thing I've heard. You my friend, need to take the engine completely out, remove the sump, remove the oil pump, apply a gasket with loctite gasket sealant (red stuff) and then put it all back together.

Lol so it "kicks out" at 4500rpm?

That is a HKS t51r KAI