The Mafia

Pod, intercooler and exhaust always allows more flow. Mine had trouble staying under 10psi like this. Get a powerfc and a tune, and you'll be fine.

Even though I've got support, you're just a wanker. You keep blowing off your cock around the place.

Thanks Sarge, appreciate your input. My Wideband goes as low as 8, and I have seen down to 8.5 due to BOVs. And because the map position is very erratic, its very hard to remove fuel from the right cells to stop stalling or issues. And I will also agree - the decell is a real pain in the but to get right, and sometimes its not even worth touching.

after all of this shit though I am going to say that your problem will be the FPR, even though I do not support ATMO BOVs attached to a AFMeterd ECU. The pressure shouldn't be jumping all over the place, and with all the cars that I have tuned, I have had nothing but trouble with SARD and malpassi. I try to convince people to stick to the factory FPR right until its at its complete max, then look at a Nismo, or whole new fuel system. The factory rail and FPR are heaps of head room for standard engines. I think you can push up to 350rwkw with the factory gear. And no standard RB25DET or RB26 will last that long on that kind of power, so you'll be forging your engine before needing a fuel upgrade. Or at least doing it at the same time.

Sorry mate but that sensor is only a "narrow" one. It can only measure fuel when you are cruising. Once you start pumping the throttle it is ignored and the maps that Nissan wrote for the ECU are injecting the fuel. Its called "closed loop" and "open loop"

Not even going to bother. You know why? I've been there, tuned heaps, and fixed this problem, and have seen this problem many times in REAL LIFE. You sir, can keyboard warrior all you like. There is nothing more obvious than experiencing it in REAL LIFE. And, what you are saying is going against how Nissan designed the system. So lets leave it at this, I'm wrong, Nissan is wrong, and you're a dickhead and think that you're right about everything. Good luck in life.

Einstein once said: "“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough”" And you don't understand how an AFM based system works, so stop talking absolute shit. Any air measured after the airflow meter cannot be dumped because the ECU has already calculated fuel for it. even AFTER decell...because it is still there.. in the pipes...in the intercooler.. And thats where the ECU expects it to be, because it was designed and programmed that way..... f**k its like I am talking to retards sometimes.

Yes, I do know this about decell.. Yes, I have still seen problems with stalling or hesitating. I cannot stress to people how much they should leave it as close to the factory design as possible,when running AFMs. Any air past the AFMs is measured. If its dumped the ECU does not know about it, and there is a guaranteed rich condition somewhere. You say that there is a decell cut... That doesn't really mean much, because when the foot is back on the throttle, or the ECU is returning fuel to the engine AFTER the decell cut, to stabilise the idle the ECU still does not have a clue how much air it is mixing fuel with... why? Because it was dumped out of an airleak aka BOV. So, I say it again - There is still a rich condition there. Guaranteed. I've seen it with my own eyes, MANY times. Why? Because I have a wideband. I've tuned cars for a long time. I've been tuning for nearly 10 years. I've fixed up a lot of dodgy workshop work too. I don't do it for the money - I do it because I LOVE it. Hence why my tunes aren't quick and nasty, without any care or love for the sport. I said it before - I hate seeing stalling threads where there are ATMO BOVs installed because its a HUGE airleak and always adds to the problem. If people can't understand the simple way this air measurement system works then don't f**k with it. Why bother looking for all the little airleaks, and hose splits, if you're going to just run a ATMO BOV anyway? If you are that desperate to run one without hassle, get a MAP sensored ECU. Anyway, OP, your fuel regulator should not be doing that. At about my 6th SARD fitted car I stopped tuning cars with them fitted. Every time I would do a power run I'd get a different AFR without any adjustments. Guaranteed every time, once the factory FPR was re-installed all problems went away.

I have already helped the OP by stating that the SARD is junk. He even answered his own question. I've seen so many of them exhibit this exact symptoms, and make the car useless to tune. Hence now, if I pop the bonnet and see a sard or malpassi, I tell them not to come back until I see a nismo or factory one attached.

There is nothing to tune around, other than "fudging a few figures". But it can never be fixed. - And, I hope you do realize that a BOV that doesn't leak, is one that is welded shut, or recirculating back? The second the BOV opens to make the big "whhhooosshh" its leaking? Can you not see that? How can that be not obvious????? Also, when your BOV is tight, its not doing anything, other than creating reversion... you know... tututututut....... All these problems... for a noise.... amazing

You can bandwagon all you like, but I can see the retardness all the time when I have the wideband in. Whether you think the car is running right or not. But if you guys want to think or continue to think that adding an air leak to a AFMetered system is a wise idea, then complain about any kind of stalling, good for you. Just shows you do not understand at all. Just want noise. Maybe buy a MAP sensored ECU so you can blow off your load all you want. It all physics, and in plain black and white - ATMO BOV + AFM = Wrong, never meant to happen.

aaaaaannnddddddd *drumroll* You answered your own question. So, eat a dick. But as I said, I refuse to properly help someone complaining about a stalling problem with an ATMO bov. I don't even care if that isn't the problem. 99% of the time, it is aggravating it.

I'm not even going to bother feeding your ignorance. AFM measures the air. BOV dumps it. ECU injects the amount of fuel required to amount of air measured. A lot less air than amount measured gets into the cylinder due to being dumped for a "cool sound". Too much fuel. Car has rich condition. Car stalls \ fouls plugs \ doesn't behave properly. BOVs only open and dump air when you back off the throttle. You're having a stalling problem when you back off the throttle, correct? By f**king around with the fuel system, adding most likely not needed and a crap quality FPR, you've made all running conditions worse. Good luck having no clue and being an ignorant dickhead.

Becuase I posted this before:

Problem would have always been there - You've just made it worse by adding more factors in, like a crap FPR.

and one other thing. Sard FPRs are crap. I refuse to tune any car with one attached. Get something quality.

P.S. I'm a tuner. And I refuse to properly help someone complaining about a stall problem when they have a ATMO bov. Its an airleak. Just like pulling a hose off and leaving it off. Except it only leaks air when you back off the throttle. I just love pointing it out to people who have no clue of this air measurement system and post countless threads on SAU.

Why is it stupid? I'll explain it for the 10,000th time. Yes, its been answered about 10,000 times. I've actually got a copy and paste space where this is. Read on. I love these threads. You love the noise - and put the BOV on the car to be a wanker. Its scientifically proven that if you're a wanker, the first thing you do when you buy a Skyline is install a vent to atmosphere blow off valve, to advertise the fact that you are indeed, a wanker. Do you even know how the Nissan air intake system works? There is an AFM that measures the air entering the engine. The Stock BOV recirculates FOR A REASON. When your duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly, spinny, shiny, noisy, fuleh sic, wank off valve opens, it dumps air that the engine has measured and allocated fuel for. When only half the air gets into the cylinder because the air it measured is at the street corner where you sped up erratically and backed off because you saw some women on the corner, thinking that when they heard your BOV they'd get naked and run and dive into your car, the engine is now overfueled and under oxygenated, and stalls, backfires, and carries on. You know why? Because you've created a MASSIVE AIRLEAK on a system that will not run with airleaks. Do you like that fact that you will foul your plugs constantly? Do you also like attracting the cops attention? Do you like the risk of being defected and having to pay money for a BOV that didn't need to be there? Do you like the fact that you are just making skylines more hated? (And don't worry, its almost a guarantee that you'll drive through the main street of town making it release "because you like the wank off sound") Do you like it how women love the sound, get naked and dive into your car as you drive past? Do you think SAU will be happy about another "My car is running rough, I only installed a duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly fuleh sic wank off valve" thread They should create a database script that bans people that install BOVs "just for the sound" or complain when their car runs rough... I'm was running 300rwkw and had the stock BOV. Good luck with it though.

Because regardless if it stalled or not, running a atmo BOV on a airflow metered system is just plain stupid. Let me guess, you did it for "the sound" I'm guessing that you didn't even need to upgrade the FPR or the fuel rail?

ATMO bovs and Sard FPRs? You deserve it to stall if that's the case.

just to throw it out there - You really don't want a slippery belt on there. And you must choose your cleaning solution wisely - or the belt WILL deteriorate..

40psi easy

so your going to sticky tape twin turbos onto a RB25?

how did you clean it? I used a 3000psi aquablaster, toilet brush, and lost of detergent.... Please tell me you did the final wash properly....!

Hi everyone. I have a perfect working Q45 AFM with the screen still intact. I ran 320rwkw without a sweat on it. Has plenty more to go. Yes, this is a real Q45 - I'm a tuner and can guarantee no problems. It will come with a plug, and if you need, a stainless attachment to fit a 4inch POD on the back of it as seen in the pics. Pics are attached. $140 plus post (postage will be about $12)