The Mafia

Most shops stick them on a slow lathe and use sand paper anyway. Last thread about the size of cams were mentioned, the guy had no clue and didn't realize that 270s were going to be unsuitable for a standard engine and mid sized turbo limited to 7k. he thanked us and went a pair closer to 256 or 260. But I have no idea who you are or what you're building so if you're going to be like that then you can jam it right up your ass. Sideways. P.s. I wet and dried my poncams and they came up like new. Never had an issue.

All I can say is: 800 grit Then 1000 grit Then 1500 Grit. Then install, and realize they they don't fit and need all sorts of shit changed because of the massive lift. Also, if they do work, then I'm assuming you have an engine that will rev to 9,000rpm to 10,000rpm because those cams will only be good from about 5,000rpm upwards. Still surprised at people that think bigger is always better when it comes to cams.

Nope, only a pod will do that. Or a port shrouded GT3076... lol

4) the factory airbox with a k&n panel filter.

Ran a stock one up to 320rwkw...

Does it have a wank off valve?

I wish more people on SAU thought like you. Good luck - shouldn't be too hard to find some standards.

Lol. I'll be free afte gym at about 6pm. But yeah - driving or drinking Ben?

Don't start putting heat around an allow head, it's not that great for it. Call up a professional mobile stud removal guy. They'll have it out quick and easy, and for a relatively cheap price too.

How high is the rev limiter, and when does it make it's bulk torque? Do you have a dyno plot? By upgrading your cams you're only going to push your usable power band upwards in the rev range. Do you think you'll need this? Here's an example Instead of power at 3000rpm to 8000rpm, maybe up to 4000 to 9000 rpm? Know what I mean?

I feel your pain.. They seriously think its so much better. Someone else I know put a set of 270s in a stock sr20 for a "tough idle"... No tuner has been able to get it running right... Now he wants to sell the car... Yeap, bigger is always better according to some of these uneducated fools..

Haha mate, we probably saved you a couple of thousand too. At least someone on this forum listens to the advice given. I've seen things as dumb as a gt3076 with a 0.63 rear housing, and then 270 cams fitted, and the owner telling me that I'm stupid and biggest cams are best... In that situation, standards would have been better than 270s... Anyway, glad to help.

Sure am. What power they make has nothing to do with it. They could have been lag monsters with no torque mid and low. You need to pick the cams that give you the fattest torque curve between where the turbo starts to come on hard, and your rev limiter. Well chosen Smaller cams will make it spool earlier too. Bigger isn't always better.

You'll need springs, and an engine that is capable of making power above 9000rpm. Do you have a need for cams that big?

Sorry, I should have said the only good turbo that does come off eBay is the kando. The rest are unknown, so not worth the risk, especially when the is tested and proven.

Well if it was a Nissan the turbo wouldnt be on the wrong side... But, I guess someone ie Toyota has gotta be different and homo and put the turbo on the wrong side... Lol But I agree, the Toyota has a lot more thought put into it. Geared oil pump drive... 12x 14mm oil drains as opposed to 6 x 8mm drains etc.

Shows your intelligence. So what are you going to do if it only makes 200hp? I ask again, why the hell would you buy a turbo if you've got no idea what it is capable of? You just bought it because it was a turbo? I didn't even read the specs and I can see an issue already with a to4 whatever the hell random ass front wheel crammed into a 0.5 cover. You know there are about 30 different kinds of to4 wheels right? T3/t4 means jack shit I'm afraid. Its probably still some Chinese shit. If it doesn't fail, when it makes well below your dream target, let me guess, it's going to be the tuners fault? I REFUSE to tune anything with an unknown turbo on it. Especially if I has come from eBay - the place where it's easy to take money from the uneducated.

Lol, people that browse this site never learn. Then they come here wanting power figures. Put the f**king thing on and find out? Do we look like we have a crystal ball specialized in telling power figures on piece of shit eBay turbos?

actually, besides actually SEEING with my own eyes how shit the flow of the walboro pumps are, I've done about 3 other cars that have had the exact same issue. I didn't tune around it, I told them to get a new fuel pump. But hey, I'm talking shit....

I put a locking bar on mine, it helped with the predictability of the rear end.

ummm and didn't I say that it ran out of flow, at about 280rwkw? So completely maxed at 280rwkw means the pump is only good for about 250rwkw... I hear all about these "High horsepower cars" running walboros, but I don't see any models or horsepower figures being mentioned............

I still don't understand why you'd tune a car right on the edge of the fuel pumps capacity. Anyone in the industry knows the walboro is shit beyond 60psi, or much beyond stock power. It's basic maths.

I will almost guarantee that the fuel pump is running out of flow. The tuner should not have tuned it like this.

amen - this post should be stickied

I tuned my own car, and had it connected to the dyno flow tester. If you don't want to listen to me - That's OK, your money not mine. You'll need to change the pump and get a retune, and the retune the tuner will happily charge you $500+ for. The Graph I have attached states exactly what I said in plain English. 500hp my ass. Anybody that says that the Walboro GSS342 can make that much power is dreaming.