The Mafia

The problem is the factory BOV actually leaks at idle. The ECU is tuned for it. I blocked mine for the same result.

Factory ECU was meant to have a BOV that is plumb back. This is why it's hunting and running like shit.

I thought that would be alarm bells to something being wrong? Dude, a cas as timing isn't there for decoration. It's the most crucial part of the engines functionality. Brin advanced 30 degrees could have killed it.

I had the same issue with my r33 engine. Struggles at cruise, goes ok at boost. Idles rough sometimes etc. Put a timing light on and the timing mark was jumping around all over the place. I think it was struggling at cruise because the stuffed cas was advancing the timing too much. Causing pre ignition. The timing is already super high at cruise. It was ok at boost because the timing drops back considerably. Changed the case with a known working one and all the problems went away. Also, the mark didn't jump all over the place when we checked it with a timing light. Try another known working cas. Every 3rd timing light flash the timing would be in a random spot. With the new cas it would jump every 20th flash or something like that. A lot less that's for sure.

replace thermostat. Close thread.

Have you tried your local pet store?

And you're asking all of this and you know you need to check the base timing before anything? Why waste our time? Check the base timing then come back and tell us there is a problem. Also, get a retune.

sounds like the deck - between 3 and 4 are the most likely to have a dip. The mechanic should have checked it. IT might have run ok for a little while but was weak, and broke easy.

Also - Did they use hylomar?

The deck can be warped too. If the head is flat and the desk is warped, it will do the same. Did you check the flatness of the head while it was off?

I had 256 cams and I know people running bigger and they don't seem to have this issue. These cams are setup to be in the optimal position. You shouldn't need to f**k around with cam gears straight off the bat. I'm fairly sure with the issues you are having you've got one or both cams timed incorrectly, ie. cam pulley is out a tooth. Check it properly. No offense but you don't seem to have a clue what you are doing so it might pay to have someone that does to check it. You definitely shouldn't be losing that much compression on such mild cams.

ok, I've downloaded Nissan Fast 2010. Callan, I understand that you were chasing it? Its supposed to work with Windows 7 x64, but I haven't tried it yet. If it doesn't, I have a Virtual Machine built running Windows XP and Fast already installed that I am happy to copy over. All you need to do is download VirtualBox (free) and add the VM. Happy to burn a DVD for either one.

bump, still here.

That's also another problem with you guys. If it doesn't start after 3 or 4 cranks, you'll keep cranking. It's not goin to magically fix itself and start. It's a EFI motor, it's designed to start easy. Plus, these cheap shit batteries you or the jap \ compliance puts in them are just that - shit. Get a decent battery and try to crank it 3 or 4 times a couple of times. Not all night. If it doesn't start after a couple of short goes, stop, and start checking shit.

It won't start with the cas in the wrong spot Put it in the center and I bet it starts. It won't hurt it on idle if it's too advanced or retarded in the middle. You car definitely won't start if it's super retarded

Do a leak down test. Also, put a little oil down cylinder after you test it and test it again. If te compression doesn't come up after the oil, then it's not the rings, but a head gasket. Sounds like a was gasket if there is water amongst the problem.

Your forgetting that Garret's rating is fly wheel horse power. Not rear wheel horsepower.

Dude you can't just whack a bigger rear housing on, wind up the boost and make it just make more and more horsepower. The size of the compressor is the limiting factor, and in this case, I'm pretty sure anything past 260rwkw will be very difficult. I doubt you'd even make much more power anyway. The compressor will be choked up. Solution? Get a bigger compressor. This means a gt30 series.

Looks like a stick pump? What year \ model is your car?

Lol you didn't search did you? In before the lock Oh, and split fires

f**ked turbo mate. It will shit the exhaust wheel into the cat soon.

You mean afm - air flow meter? Well, short answer, no. What ECU do you have?

Another +1 here for not enough timing on cruise. Minimum of 40 degrees. Don't go to much more though, doesn't really do anything. But what they said, combustion is well and truly over by the time the exhaust valve opens. Also, leaving it like this means you run the risk of burning out exhaust valves. Don't want that, it will be an expensive repair.

Dude I would consider getting the nistune. It's about $200 and allows you to fully program the factory ecu, which is almost always the best ecu for any car. Find a good tuner and get it done. You'll be laughing all the way then.

I know Roy, but I've already offered to get him a RB30 cheap as. Postage is just something we'd need to hunt for. All the stuff purchased would and wouldn't be needed for the rb30 anyway, and at the identical cost.