The Mafia

I just asked him and he said that is exactly how he has done it. I guess now all I need to do is measure the thickness of my steel plates and see how much they are worn. If you have some there and can give me a measurement that would be great

Yeah that is it I am pretty sure. (I am just a dumb tuner, I'm not doing this, my friend who is a mechanic is lol ) This is a donor case so I have no idea how it was treated before I got it. It's from a R33 GTR so it is possible someone stupid was pulling the fuse and doing skids not knowing these have preload. I have only used Transmax Z in both of my GTRs transfer cases so glad to hear that. This one we are building is for a circuit car hence the 10 plate mod. He has also assured me that he is measuring it with the Attesa actuator installed with the piston in. Just curious, when you say "piston in" does that just mean the actuator bolted onto the back with no hydraulic pressure? (at rest if that makes sense)

Hi BK! Thank you very very much for this long and informative post. I am going to double check with my mate that is rebuilding the transfer case and see if there is something wrong. I am building it with the new arrangement (most aggressive, s/f/s/f/s/f/s/f/s) I already have a 5.0mm and 6.2mm retainer, but he thinks he needs 6.7mm. I have purchased brand new friction plates, but have reused the steel plates. Maybe that is the cause of the large clearance - re-using the steel plates? What are the steel plates meant to be thickness wise? Thanks again mate, I really appreciate this input.

Hi Everyone I'm in a bit of a pickle. I need the end plate in the transfer case. Circled in the picture. These steel plates come in various sizes to set the clearance. I need it to be 6.7mm / 6.8mm thick. Can anyone help? I will pay up front and need it to be posted fairly quickly. Thanks

Hi Duncan Thanks for the reply. The only piece that GKtech make is the black spacer: I was just thinking that f the ABS teeth are mounted on the shaft then there will be an issue with the spacers installed. I use the passenger side ABS sensors too as my second wheel speed input. This is going to be interesting. I might need to get custom shafts made up. Do you have somewhere you have them made? Or do you just use the drive shaft shop?

Hi Everyone. I have a few questions about front drive shafts. Has anyone ever used spacers or required and obtained some slightly longer drive shafts? I want to increase my front camber by pushing the bottom of the wheel outwards about 10mm but when we did that it extended / stretched the driveshaft too much and a blew a driver side shaft taking a left corner at high load on a hill climb. Seems that it pulled the CV apart / out because it was stretched too far. Some have asked me if my mounts are okay - well they are brand new (Everything is new) The car is a R33 GTR that has been fully built for circuit. I'm pretty sure that R32 / R33 and R34 GTRs all use the same front driveshafts. I cannot pull the top in anymore unfortunately. Plus filling the guards outwards would be nice and give me more track. I'm not really a suspension guy. Engine / Tuning is my area so go easy on me if I have said anything stupid. The main bits underneath are Ikeya Formula so I have a lot of adjustment. Also Running a quaife front diff and Full Race AWD controller so the AWD definitely gets a hammering. I have spoken to GKTech and he said they make these for the rear, but I would like to know if they fit the front too. Has anyone ever done this before?

I was thinking the same thing. I would love to see the timing map / AFRs. GTRSean, can you post a screen shot of your timing map / AFR?

I emailed GCG about putting 0.63 rear housings on these. This was their response: Thanks for the enquiry. We can supply these with an 0.64a/r, which would definitely bring them on earlier, although our testing did show the test vehicle surging under light throttle. However, we haven’t tested these with the new surge slotting on the compressor housings, so it’s something that could possibly work, as long as the engine is capable of handling the airflow that the turbochargers provide. The issue we had originally is the GTX turbochargers push a HEAP of air into the cylinders, but the engine just could not handle the excessive flow, and this is where surge occurred. If the cylinder head is modified is the right way, and you have a nice big volume plenum, the issue shouldn’t present itself. Keep in mind we cannot guarantee they will not surge. You also need a big BOV if you’re planning on running these (Turbosmart Race Port 50mm should do the job)

I emailed them and got this: Thanks for the enquiry. We can supply these with an 0.64a/r, which would definitely bring them on earlier, although our testing did show the test vehicle surging under light throttle. However, we haven’t tested these with the new surge slotting on the compressor housings, so it’s something that could possibly work, as long as the engine is capable of handling the airflow that the turbochargers provide. The issue we had originally is the GTX turbochargers push a HEAP of air into the cylinders, but the engine just could not handle the excessive flow, and this is where surge occurred. If the cylinder head is modified is the right way, and you have a nice big volume plenum, the issue shouldn’t present itself. Keep in mind we cannot guarantee they will not surge. You also need a big BOV if you’re planning on running these (Turbosmart Race Port 50mm should do the job)

Okay I missed those posts. I thought they would have performed better. Those ones above look interesting. I wonder if you can put smaller rear housings on them, like a 0.63

not sure what drugs you guys are on, but GTX turbos will be much better than -5s. keen to see the results.

Vipec and Link are the same thing / same hardware. Vipec is actually gone now, absorbed back into Link. Vipec "V" series = Link G4 Vipec "i" series = Link G4+ You want the model of vipec or link that fits the GTR. It also fits the RB20. (It's a one ECU fits all) The GTRLink / GTRVipec fits everything except for the Neo as that has a different plug.

Hi mate you only have 2 sort of easy choices here. 1. Remove the loom, and install a RB25 NEO loom to run with the Neo Vipec. 2. Get a GTRLink / Vipec. These fit all GTR models, and the R32 and R33 GTS-T. Any other way will only be a huge bitch. You could get yourself a brand new wiring specialties Neo harness. Would cost about $1k but then you have a new loom. Personally, since later model Neos have fairly new looms in then, just grab a factory one of those nice and cheap

Do you have a link?

I could 3D print those

You should never tune beyond 80% injector duty cycle. Same goes for the fuel pump - it should have about 20% headroom too. You won't have any of this headroom trying to make that much power with those parts.

On E85 yes. The pump won't flow enough or be near it's limit, and the injectors will be almost maxed.

had a look and a search and nothing came up. Do you have a link you can share? thanks

Hi everyone I want to buy a set of injectors they are larger than 700cc, and will straight swap a R33 RB25. Need to be genuine and decent, no hi flows or fakes. Thanks

I posted pics on the previous page. It's a stock pump I'm pretty sure

Sort of just happened over time I think. Stock pump, not N1. All standard pulleys. I have since flushed everything, put in new coolant, sealed the radiator right around tight, and installed a thermo. Seems to idle nicely at 82 degrees (I have the thermo coming on at 50% at 84 degrees.) Hoping this has it all fixed

Mine wouldn't climb that fast, but it would climb and the highest I have let it go was 110. What was your problem?

I will be investigating it more, but I do have a larger PWR intercooler installed. I also put a lot of foam around the rad to seal it properly because it was sealed very poorly beforehand too. I inspected the waterpump with an inspection camera, and it looked okay to me. Here are some pics. If you can see anything wrong please let me know!

I thought that too, but exhaust gas test was negative, and it isn't using any water at all. Also, it makes over 400awkw without any issues whatsoever. Just needed more air hey. The factory fan wasn't blowing much at idle at all

I have no idea why, but if my oil temp was up around 90 degrees, when my car was idling it would just idle into oblivious. seen it get to 112 degrees once when I wasn't looking. As soon a sI put the craig davies fan on with more airflow, it stayed at 86 degrees.