The Mafia

You still havent explained what this bullshit comment is about. For the rest of you - I saw a couple of R35 GTRs doing laps, not that quick though as it rained a little. Oh, and I saw a supra. It was moving very slowly past us. Slower than all the cars on the track. Oh, and I should add, it was on the back of a tow truck. ahaha.

88cameron88, this was actually a 2.5 litre. With a well set up gt3076, water meth injection, and lots of tuning to perfection done by me, it was a weapon. I think in the lower gears it was a little higher. More like 4,000 rpm to make 12psi. But, I think our friend here that says he's done his homework doesn't realise that when my gt3076 is making 12psi, it's a lot more flow than his standard turbo at 12psi. Hence why all if the reasoning here is poorly thought out. Standards early? No. R33 bush turbo spooling earlier than a ball bearing Garrett? No. Laggy? Yes. Risky? Yes. Time wasting? My opinion, yes. More time wasted stuffing around with a setup that won't work instead of driving it on a track.

Oh, and my gt3076 was making 18psi at 3200rpm in 4th, or 3500 in 3rd. 12psi was just over 2000rpm. I would bet $5000 that two standard bush bearing rb25 turbos on a rb25 won't do that. Lol.

Hey mate, I'm in Germany at the moment, lol, but flying back today. Actually in Mackay, but if I was there I'd tune it for free just to be able to try out the haltech. Tuning is all the same concept, the settings are just in different spots, sometimes making it longer to do. Shame, but let me know how you go. I might even download the software and have a look.

I agree. More lag, and much more risk of losing an engine. If a wheel explodes when you're offend throttle at high revs, with the throttle body shut, and the ability for the engine to suck back from the exhaust, if it pulled some bits of turbo into the cylinder, boom. You'll have about a $3k rebuild on your hands. New pistons, rings, bearings, bore, hone, etc. Standards really are a bad idea. Especially with unknown kms

Do the scratch marks in the certain cylinders correspond with the bores that were low on compression?

Haha cal, I wasn't driving, f**k that. Typing on an iPhone and doing 180kmph is suicide... Lol. my posts are a bit dodgy because of the iPhone, and it's convenient autocorrect sometimes. Dysonest, I've got no idea what you are referring to.

Nice post, made a lot of sense. Thanks.

Yeah, I wouldn't bother with the standard r33 turbos because they like to fly apart beyond 12psi. It's kind of a waste bolting them on to just run 12psi. A single Garrett item with an internal gate would be far cheaper, easier, and a lot less mess under the bonnet. I'd you're set on twins, get decent twins properly matched for performance vs early spool time. But, a z32 and two standard turbos at 12psi wouldn't max a z32. Just advice mate - you need to rethink you're strategy because what you're doing isn't going to be worthwhile, especially on a rb2530

Standard r33 rear housing is on the money. How can you pump that much boost in, and expect it to magically disappear? Im amazed how many people who have no clue at all about how a turbo works, just get some random "high flow rated at xxx kw" bolt it on, and come on here wondering why it doesn't work? Have a real good think about this "TO4E" setup. Get the EXACT SPECS of this turbo and post them here. Turbine housing size: Turbine wheel size: Compressor housing size: Compressor wheel size: If you can't or didn't get any of this info when buying it, the you shouldnt have bought it.

Rifling would be a waste if time and great expense, because you aren't realizing that it's for the projectile, not the gas. Also, using boost pressure for water methanol is another waste of time. You need the wmi at low levels of boost when the car is under the most load. Without much pressure, you aren't going to atomise the the mix anywhere near enough, so it's not goin to work. My system worked well at 150 psi, the mix was like steam. Anything under 50psi and it dribbled, like the shit your posting. Common sense, there is a lack of it these days. People need to realize these ideas would be utilised by BMW, Ferrari, Nissan, etc if they were so great. Why? Because they have millions for R&D, and much smarter people than a few kids on a forum.

I'm not trying to bag the haltech, but from my experience it's an ECU that is designed for many cars. Is it a plug in, or do you need to hack the wiring loom? With vipec, link, and Powerfc, to me, the plug in no hacking models you buy for your skyline seem to be more tailor made or personalized for the car. My experience with the haltech v12 (no experience with the one you have) had a lot of random settings not applicable for the car it was installed in. Kind of like a "one size fits all" I'd prefer something more designed and tested for the car it's made for. Specific models from reputable conpanies mean it has been tested properly.

Thanks for the comments guys, will keep all of your tips in mind. I'd love a r33 because they're cheaper, I'd have more for mods, and wouldn't be so careful with it. The r34 on the over hand is sexy as. So confused. Well, tomorrow I'm going for a lap on the nurburgring in one of the cars, they're about 200rwkw. Maybe I'll see some interesting cars on the circuit. It's going to be a pleasure to be on the track that the Nissan GTR made the porche it's bitch. Oh, I'm in Germany by the way. Lol. Doing 180kmph on the autobahn as I type this

Not sure why you went haltech, as vipec, link and Powerfc are all plug in and most likely cheaper. Even a nistune is pretty good, and even cheaper again. Can't help with tuners, but I'm a tuner and I'm not a fan of haltech in the Nissan skyline. There seem to be much better options.

Trying to work out if I should get a r33 vspec now or wait a little longer and grab a r34 with around 90,000 kms. Lola doesn't worry me too much, I just want something suitable for track work, and street driving. I'm well educated with turbo setup, and can do all of my own tuning and general setup... Just not sure. I love tuning and I'm f**king great at it so I just want to get my own project again. Annoyed at tuning other cars and not doing my own Anyone got any input? I want to import so I should start looking now, I might have it before Xmas. It's kinda like if I want to have sex with Benny or kingy? Ben now or kingy later on? Haha. Hey kingy, did you end up getting a final tune on the r34? How did my tune fare after you changed the clutch?

I'd throw that ECU in the bin and buy one that won't kill your car. Mines is tuned for a specific application, not generic cars. Powerfc, or get a vg30 ECU and nistune it, you'll get a much safer resolution. I'm actually looking forward to getting a nistune and tuning It myself.

I was also meant to say - the standard one is plumb back for a damn good reason.

If I wasn't posting from an iPhone, you'd be feeling the full force of the dumbass stick. You have created a big f**king airleak in your intake system by installing your wanker valve. It's not meant to be there. Take it off and your problems will go away. After reading this, I want you to SEARCH for "stalling" and "bov" and see the million threads. Learn how your car works before adding this junk to the system, creating an airleak, so you sound cool an attract cops.

Just letting you all know that I am in Paris, and well, heading back to Germany in a couple of hours, lol. I'll be back home in Australia on the 10th of August, so please don' think that I have disappeared. I will make sure I have sorted everything out, plus i will have a few days on the end of my holidays to get a heaps of requests sorted out. Talk soon guys, hopefully goin to try to get to the Nuernburgring race track, might not have enough time though. Take care, talk to you all soon.

Or are you just pulling yourself for now? (lol)

Joe, you're on an Internet forum, how do you expect us to give you an explanation?? I cant disassemble your engine from here and measure it with a micrometer. Have you even pulled it yet?

Lol. There is more to an engine than just "slapping it together" Cant blame the tuner. Plus you're still obligated to pay him for wasting his time on a dud engine.

I'm surprised his thread is still alive. I look forward to all the porting and pulling over this head you do. Instead of going quiet about it when you do realize it was a complete waste of time, money, and your life, please cone back and admit it. $1100 and you could probably find a GTR head. $50 more and you have a rb30 block. But you'd still spend or waste so much time on a rb20 and say it's better or different. Lol.

Microtech are just shot anyway. Old and poorly laid out. Anything is better. Oh, and if I could run a map, maf, and AIT all together with some awesome calculation to make it work, I would.

The money saved on fuel (if web possible) set up like this, you will waste constantly changing plugs from being fouled, you'll also waste money on getting the soot cleaned from the rear bar. Not to mention since the car will be a slug, you'll be using more throttle to get going etc. In the end, I will be a big useless waste if money. And, you bought a car that is powerful, to make it not powerful. It's like calling a hooker over, to not have sex with her. Tell Me, why didn't you just buy a toyota prius?