The Mafia

Being 100% honest, it's going to be a pig and useless for what you want to use it for. Change the pistons.

Hi Everyone This question is relatively quick - Some guy didn't give way at a green light, and wrote off my R33. Anyway, its got some very nice Whiteline springs and Bilestien Shocks, with the factory R33 caps on them, and I want to replace my R33 with an R34. Will these fit an R34 or did they change the suspension mounting layout? Just the shocks and springs (ie, coilover assembly) If anything else fits, please let me know.

HI Everyone. I've been a well known genuine user on SAU for quite a few years. Unfortunately some f**king tosser didn't give way, and me, going straight through a green light, plowed into them. So, my much loved R33 is dead. Well, almost. I'm parting it all out, and to make this easy, I will tell you what isnt available. Assume everything else is. Parts NOT available: 1. Engine - Sold 2. Gearbox, Master and Slave cylinders, clutch Pedal - I'm keeping 3. Suspension - I'm keeping 4. Exhaust and intake pipes - I'm keeping 5. Shifter - I'm keeping 6. Windscreen - Smashed 7. Front Bar - Smashed 8. Right Fender - Smashed 9. Bonnet - Smashed 10. Right Headlight and other right lights - Smashed 11. Right control arm, and this bits - Bent 12. Not sure if selling the PowerFC and hand Controller yet Parts Available: All Interior - and that means absolutely everything. Just note the airbags went off - SO Steering wheel and passenger section damaged Engine parts Excedy Twin Plate Heavy duty clutch and lighter excedy flywheel kit (Still about 80% good) Both doors Sideskirts Windows Brakes Left Fender Boot Lid Series II rear spoiler Skyline Center Section lights up an aqua colour (pics attached) Tail lights Rear bumper Diff Axles Rear wheels and tyres Rear windscreen Quarter Glass Insides of the boot Side Mirrors Extra Green Passenger Mirror Anything else that isn't damaged. I will be updating this as much as I can and often so keep an eye on this thread. You're welcome to PM me anything. my number (written backwards to stop spam) 7046339340 my email paceys[at}gmail.com (change [at} to @) Thanks guys Jono pics:

It's not only illegal, your insurance company will wipe you.

Sorry mate I meant the hubs

Will offer $1300 for the complete head. Please send me pics and details. Paceys(at)Gmail.com

HI Everyone. I've been a well known genuine user on SAU for quite a few years. Unfortunately some f**king tosser didn't give way, and me, going straight through a green light, plowed into them. So, my much loved R33 is dead. Well, almost. I'm parting it all out, and to make this easy, I will tell you what isnt available. Assume everything else is. Parts NOT available: 1. Engine - Sold 2. Gearbox, Master and Slave cylinders, clutch Pedal - I'm keeping 3. Suspension - I'm keeping 4. Exhaust and intake pipes - I'm keeping 5. Shifter - I'm keeping 6. Windscreen - Smashed 7. Front Bar - Smashed 8. Right Fender - Smashed 9. Bonnet - Smashed 10. Right Headlight and other right lights - Smashed 11. Right control arm, and this bits - Bent 12. Not sure if selling the PowerFC and hand Controller yet Parts Available: All Interior - and that means absolutely everything. Just note the airbags went off - SO Steering wheel and passenger section damaged Engine parts Excedy Twin Plate Heavy duty clutch and lighter excedy flywheel kit (Still about 80% good) Both doors Sideskirts Windows Brakes Left Fender Boot Lid Series II rear spoiler Skyline Center Section lights up an aqua colour (pics attached) Tail lights Rear bumper Diff Axles Rear wheels and tyres Rear windscreen Quarter Glass Insides of the boot Side Mirrors Extra Green Passenger Mirror Anything else that isn't damaged. I will be updating this as much as I can and often so keep an eye on this thread. You're welcome to PM me anything, I would include my details in this message but spam is giving me the shits. my number (written backwards to stop spam) 7046339340 Thanks guys Jono

Hi Guys As the topic title states. Its a 1996 Series II R33 GTS-T Silver front Grille. There are a few marks but otherwise its in very good condition. If you need to paint it then the marks will not be an issue anyway. These sell from Nissan new and unpainted for $550. They are also extremely rare. I'm selling mine for $150, and post will be about $15 registered and insured. I'm a very long term and genuine user from SAU, so if you want to know a bit about me, just search. No dodgy stuff here. PM me for my details, to help combat spam bots. Thanks Jono

are these 4 stud or 5 stud on the rims?

Can you confirm the restrictors are fitted to the oil feed in the turbo? Definitely have a look at the PCV

couple of things - - What turbo are you running? - Are you bouncing the limiter a lot - HOw many Kms has the engine done - Have you upped the boost \ trashed it

I lol every time I read someone say "I want to do something different" If thats the case, then take up gardening, or painting maybe? Go to a track with a forged RB20, and no one will say "oh wow, thats different", they'll say "why the f**k did he waste $10k on a RB20, when my stock RB25 can make the same amount of power, earlier, and with more torque" lol

lol I am surprised that people even ask these questions. If a wheel stud breaks, do you just change the rim and leave it till later?

lol, just out of curiousity - why did you get a surge tank, massive fuel pump, and HKS ignition if the rest of the car is stock? (Seems like it from your post?)

I put 2 x 1.3mm restrictors in the block feeds, and welded the head shut on the third feed because I used a RB30 motor. (Doesn't have a third feed for vct). I did the internal pin mod, and robbed 1.5mm worth of feed from the head journal on that side. Didn't have a single issue with oil what so ever.

I'd be making the company pay up mate. That is theft.

Your thread is barely going to last a day before a mod locks it. Have a look at the top of this forum. There is a dyno results thread with all different turbos on all different RB20s, RB25s, and RB30s. This question gets asked way too much.

ok no worries mate, didn't realise that you blew your old one. Take my advice and experience - When you have the block out, get it acid bathed, decked, bored, hone, and the top of the bores chamfered. Should cost you about $300. And you'll have a peice of mind. Trust me, don't skimp in these areas. Especially if you are looking for bigger power later on.

why are you even bothering to rebuild if that is the only power you are after? I ran 300rwkw with a Garrett GT3076 for about 3 years, and when we removed the motor, it still tested perfect in a compression and leak down test. I wouldn't even bother with a rebuild for your power goal unless the motor is already buggered. ALso, DEFINITELY get the motor rebored if you are installing new pistons and rings. Forged pistons are sentisive to the right bore size.

Dude, I'd get a Hone, acid dip, and deck done. Would cost you around $250. It really is worth the trouble and expense, as you won't have any issues then. Set of standard rings would be about $100, and change the bearings while you are at it. Thats another $100. You'll need a new head gasket - $about $50 if you find the right place. Totalling around $500 If you skimp for a lousy $100, here and there, you'll be pulling the engine out and down again, wasting days of time, extra head gaskets, seals etc. Trust me, been there done that. Just do it the right way first up, because saving $100 isn't worth the hassle of pulling the motor out again.

Everyone, I am interested in seeing if this turbo really is a bit of a lag monster, or this fella has just set it up wrong. I am willing to put in $10 towards his dyno time with Trent. If we do this properly, I'll gather the cash and send it directly to where he takes it (Trent from Mercury, or am I on another planet?) This way, its fairly legit. Plus, I ran a $5k group buy a few years back, and made a lot of friends, so you can trust me. Plus, its only about $100 or so. Anyway, I am happy tpo help out. Its also going to save me thousands if I decide to take a risk and end up buying a turbo that is laggy, or not suitable for me. Anyone keen in helping out this test? If we go ahead, I want to know A LOT of info about your car mate so Fill in this form for me: Engine: Intake Manifold: Exhaust Manifolf: Cams: Compression Test: Fuel: Intercooler Size: Pre intercooler piping size: Post intercooler piping size: Full exhaust specs: Dyno Chart with AFRs plotted: Full Ignition Map: Base timing: Type of ECU: Anything else I Can think of over the next couple of days I know thats a lot, and maybe it will take you a while to get the ignition timing down, but hey, if you want a pretty much free diagnosis, work for it, haha. Fill this out please. I really want to see this turbo tested properly. I cannot recommend it to people (I'm a tuner, and I get a lot of people asking me what they should buy) if its not what garrett claims. Thanks, and I hope people are interested.

Not to me - My GT3076, made 18psi at 3100rpm, on a rock stock RB25. Dude! Please read my comment above. Please do this before you go changing the turbo, it will only cost you about $100. f**k, I'll donate $10 to the cause, just because I want to know if these turbos really are lazy. Is money an issue? I'm sure others will help. I'm willing to help out this time around. Please be smart about this and make sure you are 100% certain its the turbo.

I what how a GTX3076 at around 20psi would be like on a RB26\30? Maybe that would be a better match than a RB25? IF these turbos make more torque then maybe they are more sensitive to capacities. Oh, and to stir you all up, here is a comparison: Stock RB25, GT3076 (GT3037), 0.63 turbine housing, 0.6 comp cover, 18psi This tune took me one hour, I later smoothed out all the bumps. (did a quick tune before a dyno day) And here is an earlier one: I love the way the torque curve gets up and stays up, and owns anyones ass in the car.

this question has been asked 5,0000000 times. Do a search.

I'm going to be straight out honest mate - I'd get a brand new one. I have purchased AFMs in the past that have worked but been f**ked the whole time and caused tuning issues for a long time. For example - I could never set my Nismo injectors at the proper settings. Never knew why, car was always just a little weird even though it ran fine. CHanged the AFM, and problem solved.