The Mafia

I could make a max of 5psi in first, nothing more. WIth a GT30 and 0.63 rear. OP needs to look at if the wastegate is holding shut. Or put tension on it.

20psi, in first gear with a GT30 on a RB25? ok. Now I have seen it all. Post a video or I call 110% bullshit.

You seem new, and even though you've bought average to crap mods, I'll go easy on you. Turbos don't boost in 1st gear. The car doesn't have enough load.

sounds like the RB25 VCT. Advances the Inlet cam something like 15-20degrees and sets it back to normal at 4500rpm. The complete opposite of VTEC. Can you get a controller to modify it, so you can specify when it comes on and off? Would be worth the experimentation.

Hey mate I've tuned a couple of SR20s that have them, and no, didn't do that good of a job at all. For some reason, I felt a 2871 or a 3076 with small housings would have been better. One thing though, I think, you might have more luck with the GTX series. Zoom over to Nissan silvia forums, and sell your cartridge (Will go quick over there, as some tool will just want it so their car goes WHHHHOOOOSSSHHHH TUTUTUTUTUT duck whistle, cock blow, twirly, girls getting naked and diving in the car because they heard a BOV) anyway, and then look at the GTX series. Disco, do you think a GTX series would be any good? I'm thinking these possible combos (If they are possible) 1. GTX 3071 with 0.6 compressor and 0.63 rear housing (Maybe a 0.5 compressor cover?) 2. GTX 3076 with 0.5 Compressor cover and 0.63 rear 3. GTX 3582 with 0.7 compressor cover and 1.06 rear. (lol) Surely a Honda Civic 1.6L would have decent engineering to bring a turbo on boost almost as quick as a SR20? What does that VTEC do? Would that help? I'm always seeing that "VTEC kicked in yo" pic for lols... haha. Surely it would help the lag?

Hi Guys Some young tosser in a 1 tonne ute thinking he was Michael Schumacher ran me clean off the road. $3,500 damage. So just a quick one. Does anyone know the type \ name of this wheel? Advanti racing is all I can see..

Hi Guys, I did this mod yesterday. Its f**king easy! Here is what I did. 1. Went and grabbed a Tap and Drill to suit. 5mm is plenty. 2. Grabbed a Bolt to suit the tap, a nut, and a big washer like in the pic. Tap the back of the brass plug. Only drill and tap about 6-7mm. MEASURE YOUR DEPTH. Screw the nut right to the head of the screw. Put the washer behind the nut. Then screw your contraption into the back of the brass plug as far as it will go. Wind the nut against the washer, which will now be pushing onto the head. Get a socket, and hold the head of the bolt still. Get a small spanner, and tighten the nut slowly. The pin will come out easily. Now, Get a piece of wood in a vice in a drill press. Find a drill as big as the pin, and drill a hole in the wood. You want the pin to fit tightly. Drill a 2mm hole into the small end of the pin. Make sure it is right in the center. Intercept the hole with a 1.5mm drill. A hand drill and a steady hand is the best. Its brass - So its soft. Should be easy. Drill your oil feed (Picture taken from underneath the head) Tap a Taper thread into the head oil feed, and grub screw it nice and tight. Jobs done. Took about 30mins.

Well, I've upped my oil pressure. I'm sure that would help a fair bit.

Hi Mate Do your warning lights come up in BIG f**kING CAPITAL LETTERS too? lol.

I was wondering the same thing - I asked for hastings rings, and if they are, then I'm thinking they may be. And, the hone marks definitely look shit, I will bring this up during the real inspection.

Sounds like you have cross threaded it mate - Taken them off heaps of times and never had an issue.

Stay above 8.5:1 at least mate. We're in 2011 now. Its a no brainer. I had no issues in my rb25 running a factory 9:1, so why would issues in a rb30 running 9:1 come up? You're building s better more refined motor ( ported, deburred, etc) so you're actually improving your motors ability to prevent detonation.

I know a lot of people don't run them at all, and they say reversion is on, but Nissan as a whole thought it was a good idea, and their cars work best with a plumb back so its best to keep it that way unless you move to a map sensor. Plus, sneezing is gay, and attracts cops like flies to shit. And women don't get naked and jump into your car when they hear it. Sorry to burst all of your bubbles. lol.

I've done all of this before - USed mis matched housing for a turbo when I was younger and more stupid, and believed what people at turbo shops said. Anyway, I was bitterly disappointed. AS for a 1.6L engine - You're going to find it hard to find something that makes big power without lag. You simply do not have the cubes to push a big turbo early. Good luck though - Apologies for the harshness straight off the bat - There has been a lot of dickhead threads here lately.

I will reply with some questions. 1. Why, in the hell would you put a compressor cover, designed for a GT28 compressor, onto a GT30 compressor? Would you buy an R34 GTR, and install RB20 GTS-T brakes because they save space and weigh less? Would you buy an Farm irrigation pump, but install garden hose onto it because its easier to wind up? Space saving, etc etc, is a load of crap, You need to install the right housings or your turbo will perform like crap. You'll wonder why it comes onto boost so quickly, but then stop making power WELL BEFORE its rated HP. 2. .... f**k... I'm not even going to bother replying anymore to your post. I can't believe that you are actually considering all of this badly matched gear? Anyway... Trying to make things easy is going to cost you a lot of $$$ in the short term. I can guarantee, 2 Dyno runs with this gear, and you'll be regretting every decision you have made. SAU - Why do people post these stupid theads??

You've got my attention. Ca nyou supply more information? Who makes them? Aussies?

This had alarm bells ringing. How many times do people have to say - EBAY TURBOS ARE f**kING SHIT. Get a phone book, look up "Turbocharger", or go to www.yellowpages.com.au here is another place - http://gcg.com.au/ Or Try googling it. There are hundreds of turbo shops around.

It looks like a big cap that tries to "level out the power". Load of shit. Just like anything else on ebay.

Oh yes it does. I Can see in your below post that you have stuffed it up even though you think it is working. You were saying that as long as it works? Looks like yours doesn't. You know why? Your car wasn't running right so you tightened up your BOV, and now that it is going "tat tat tat"... That is what you call reversion. So basically, your car stalled, and carried on, while you drove around trying to pick up fulleh sic naked womenz, you tightened the BOV up to fix it, to a point where it is opening only briefly because it is so tight (When you are off the throttle straight away, the vac goes to about -30psi and then declines to about 20 psi). You see - BOV open between -30psi and around -24psi, and then when the car goes to -20psi, its closed and you're "tat tat tatting" to premature turbo failure via reversion.. How do I know? I tune cars. And mine did the same thing until I fixed it. Mine was a factory one that wasn't bypassing enough air. I had to fix the plumbing. Also, putting a ATMO BOV is creating an airleak in your intake system. On Idle \ Vac, it is held open and sucking unmetered, unfiltered air. And If you still have an AFM - You're even more a fool. Anyway, there is my little rant.

just don't put the water to oil cooler back on. don't need a cooler unless you are tracking the car. and the water to oil one is useless anyway. get a real oil cooler.

I'm feeling nice today. Instead of telling you that you are a dickhead for asking the most asked question on this forum, and the particular forum having 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 post and threads about turbo choices, I'll link you to a post that I have made recently to help someone. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348743-3076r-for-270rwkw/page__view__findpost__p__5607025 THis should give you enough information. If you don't like the size of the turbo, check the thread at the top of the forced induction forum with all kinds of turbos and results.

Don't cringe - But it was internally gated. And wasn't the "Improved and enlarged" version of gate either. Worked well - Had no issues. Power delivery was pretty awesome.

I'll take the oil pump. Can you post today? Let me know and I will transfer funds asap. Thanks Jono

HI Guys, just letting you know that factory restrictors (RB30 ones) are not good. Dumped a fair bit of oil in my catch can. Make sure you fit restrictors even if you do this mod.

Hi Guys. Post today is limited because we have no power. Got some pics though. Oil pump pics later tonight \ Tomorrow morning. Sprry about the delay in getting back to you all. Took the engine to a "workshop" and they said "COme back at hteh end of the week. 4 f**king weeks later I went and got it regardless. No report written up, and wanted payment. I gave them half for pulling the motor down. f**k some people around this town are USELESS. Anyway. I have a few things to report, and some pics. 1. The Pistons look normal, but with weird combustion marks. Clean on inlet side, dirty as f**k down exhaust side. Might be normal actually. 2. Pistons have 0.5 stamped on the top. Nothing else. (Pic below) 3. The Big End bearings look like brand new. No marks, no hammering, nothing. Clean as a whistle. 4. The Oil pump - Has circular marks, which look like too much crank thrust to me. Anyway - Pics.