The Mafia

I've done a fair bit of vipec tuning, puttings RB30s together, turbo matching, etc. I Can see a lot of crap in your posts. If you want some help here, tell the story properly. Not just some shit thrown together in a post having us all guessing. I'll be nice and post some straight forward stuff. Like it or not. Its to the point. 1. First you mention your running antilag, to get the turbo to full boost at 3000rpm. Who sets that up permanently? You can't run that shit while the car is in any other gear other than neutral. So I'm calling bullshit right there. 2. Walboro Fuel pump, Sard fuel pressure regulator. Double whammy. I can say right now, you haven't stated the model of the fuel pump, and I'm somewhat thinking that you've probably gone out and randomly bought a "500hp walboro pump" which is most likely a GSS 342. These pumps are shit, and drop HEAPS of flow above 60 psi. Known fact. How to I know? My car made 295rwkw and the AFRs would not go below 12.8:1. Lucky for the water meth. And I personally think SARD regulators are shit, full stop. Had at least 4 of them just not work properly on cars, and give me the shits while trying to tune. I've told the owner of the car to bugger off and come back when the stock regulator is back on and at the factory base pressure. If you've got big enough injectors, and you do, then why the f**k do you need a regulator? Anything under 350rwkw and YOU DO NOT NEED A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT INJECTORS. 3. Standard Exhaust Manifold. Anything over 300rwkw (390rwhp) and you are wasting your time unless you have done something to it. I managed 314rwkw and most likely closer to 320rwkw, but I was running water meth and had bugger all boost control under 18psi. 4. Its clear that you have absolutely no idea what turbo you are running. So you do not have any idea what power you will make. 5. You are also aiming for that magic "Big number". Here are some questions you need to ask, or post here. What Torque are you making through the rev range? What power at 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000 RPM? Where is a dyno sheet? What gear are you even running? What are your inlet temps? Its clear that you have just gone out and bought a stack of bullshit brand name parts without thinking, and are just aiming for that "Big magic number" and now you're having issues. Also, do you have a proper tuner tuning your car or are you just "having a go"? I've seen way too many people "Having a go" and tuning so bloody wrong its not funny. Anyone ever seen a PowerFC map all set to "1.0" and then the injectors f**ked around with to get the best "average power" ? I have... and in a R34 GTR.. Lucky I had a look and fixed it all up. The poor guy didn't know that how it was tuned for him. Anyway, I've given you some pointers. If you want to ignore me - Then go right ahead. I've been there and done that, I'm not just guessing.

Don't you have insurance? They would pay for the lot - Or even write the car off and pay you out. Buy back the repairable write off and fix it = easy profit. You really shouldn't be buying a car like this if you can't afford insurance?

Thats pretty awesome. I wonder how to operate the vaible part, as in, via boost or vacuum, maybe revs? Also wonder how big the scope is.

Hey mate I made 300rwkw easily on my turbo, I have a GT3076. Here is what I did, on a budget. 1. Bought a Genuine Garett Turbo and housings. Don't buy anything else, or you'll sell yourself short. GT3076 with the 6 blade compressor wheel, 0.6 surge slotted compressor cover, 0.63 rear. I recommend the 0.82 rear, or stick to the 0.63 if your happy with a 270-280rwkw ceiling. Changing a rear housing is easy down the track if you want a little more. I just added water meth injection to help push mine to 315rwkw on the little 0.63 rear. Cost: $1700 (Shop around) 2. Exhaust manifold to Turbo Rear Housing spacer. Yes, you need one. 10mm. It does not fit otherwise. The COmpressor housing hits. Get 2 x gaskets too. 3. Oil and water lines. Buy some braid and fittings, and make your own. Or get a mate to do it. Will be about $250. 4. Intake (Turbo inlet to AFM and pod, if you run an AFM). You'll need to get this fabricated. Allow about $300. Shop around. 5. Silicon Joiners and clamps. Allow around $150. 6. Turbo to cat Dump\Front pipe. These are about $450 - $500 to fabricate from stainless. Shop around, buy a decent made one. Even look for second hand ones. The User "DaleFZ1" has one for sale to suit a RB25, with a garrett turbo to RB25 cat. Its good quality and hes a very reliable user. He sold his because he needed a new one for his RB30 upgrade. 7. Injectors. Get something decent. You can get Hi Flows, or stick to brand name that you know are good. I used nismo 555cc side feeds, they can do about 320rwkw max. Don't buy ones that need collars,don't buy ones that need a new rail, and DO NOT buy a fuel pressure regulator. its a complete waste of money. Decent injectors to suit the factory rail. Cost: Shop around. Anywhere between $400 and $600 for second hand and $900 for new ones. 8. ECU - You want something simple, effective, and easy to tune? Get a powerFC. You're not building a race\drag\drift car. The powerFC can be had for about $1100. Cheapest ECU by far. Nistune won't work for you. Vipec is about $2,000. Find a tuner that can do Powerfc. If they can't or don't like them, then find another tuner. They are the easiest ECU to tune by far. 9. Tune. Anywhere between $500 and $1000. It doesn't take that long. Depending on where you are located, people here will be able to point you to a good tuner. 10. Bigger AFM if you get a powerFC. Shop around. Z32 or Q45 AFMs are relatively cheap around the place if you look around. Anywhere betweem $50 and $150. Make sure it works, or get the person you buy it off to guarantee its ok. 11. Blow off valve. You *MIGHT* need a new one if the factory one can't hold the boost. If so, get a GTR one. KEEP IT PLUMB BACK. Don't get me started on dickheads with atmospheric BOVs, noise, cops, idle hunting, etc. 12. Luck. Sometimes things don't always go to plan. Hopefully you still have a good engine, with good compression, and hasn't had the guts thrashed out of it before you got it. Add about $500 to the top of all of that for extras - Like Cans of Contact Cleaner, WD40, Sand paper, Saftey Goggles, tools, etc etc. Basically consumables. If you have any cash left, then thats a bonus. Get some brakes or good suspension for the extra power you have.

Hi Everyone I have a R33 that is fulleh sic, and makes 315rwkw+ and 720nm of torque from 3200rpm. I seem to fry 1st, second, and most of third, fish tailing past 100kmph. Can anyone help me? I mean, I'm really cool and all, because I can fry my shit tyres that are only running on about 20mm of the tread because my camber is fulleh sic, etc. Anyway, I'm cool everyone, my car is teh sic! lol. oh, and I raise you all: +2.

Do you still have the bare head? What is in it? Absolutely nothing? If its in good nick - Then I'll take it. As for the RB25 head complete - Do you still have that too? Very keen on both. Got pics?

Did you end up selling this?

Hey mate, questions: 1. With this bare RB25 head, can you install standard RB25 Cams back into it or is it too modified for GTR bits? 2. Has the head been ported? 3. Do you still have the GTR TB's? I'm interested. Thanks Jono

I had a similar issue, the thermostat was stuck halfway. Took forever to warm up, idled hot at the lights, coolish on the highway. Put a 87 degree thermostat in and it sits on 84 degrees all the time.

not sure what you are trying to do, but you can't just change a compressor wheel...

rofl at the "Fuel pressure doesn't matter" no worries then mate, dial the fuel pressure back a bit and drive it hard, because it doesn't matter. Actually, dial it back heaps, and then you can save fuel! Fark, I wish forums come with a bullshit\spam\schoolkid\idiot filter. Then I wouldn't waste time laughing at these threads. My 2c lol.

Nice work. I'm back from my business trip today so I will get you those measurements and sms them through.

Here is an update from the first inspection drop off. They are pulling it down this week, but a quick look they said: The Deck finish was really rough - Too rough for a Metal Gasket (I have a cometic 3 layer) The pistons could be moved A LOT in the bore - Piston to bore clearance could be shitty No signs of over heating Mine compression tested really well. But there are scratches in 2 bores that are too big to ignore. Will have an official report from them by Friday, then to the next machine shop. They will inspect and then rebore & hone. Friend of mine is a qualified mechanic, build 50+ LS1s (remember the oil burning issue) is going to put it together for me. He's very switched on. Going to get CP pistons, and Spool rods, balance and assemble. Will re-use the bearings if they are ok. Time to go, talk soon. Hope you're all well.

still broken. This sucks. Can someone that can see them, please rehost the pics here?

links to pics are broken

umm, this the forced induction forum, not a workshop or performance parts shop..

Hi Everyone Here are the rest of the bores before the engine goes off for inspection.

Sorry mate, no news yet. Work has me flat out, and I'm trying to find time to lift the block out. It's all disconnected, just need to unbolt the gearbox, and lift it out.

Located in Mackay QLD

I'm booking the blick into a workshop today. I'll give them a list of things to report. Hopefully they come back with some answers. Thanks Trent and Adriano - This information is very helpful.

Hi Everyone I have a set of 6 x Nismo 555cc Injectors (Yellow ones). They are 4 years old. They have supported me for 315rwkw with a standard RB25 fuel pressure regulator, and a nismo 275lph Fuel Pump, and are in top condition. O rings seem to still be good too. These are SIDE FEED injectors. Direct drop in for a RB25DET. They were running in my 1996 R33 RB25DET GTS-T. These should get you easily to 320rwkw with a good fuel pump at standard rail pressure. $600 delivered. They will go as registered post, insured for $600. They will be individually wrapped, and boxed perfectly for a safe transit. paceys[at]gmail.com - anytime 0439 336 407 (SMS only please, always working) Thanks guys - I am well known here, and a regular user, so search me up and see that I won't rip you off.

Sorry mate, but I will give a mate a call today - he has all of this gear.

Thanks for your reply - This is really good to know. As for the gap questions - I have no idea. I had a workshop assemble the engine. I will remove the pistons and rings and get some pictures of what they look like. Its a time thing so I will organise it ASAP and get back to you. Thanks again for all of your replies. Also interested to know what the proper Piston to bore clearance is supposed to be.

no worries mate, thanks very much for your effort. Here is my checklist so far: Piston to Bore Clearance Ring Gaps Crank Thrust If bores are round (Should be, was bored 20thou over)

ok no worries, I will look into this on the rebuild. Just wanted to thank you guys for all of the input so far. I really do appreciate it.