The Mafia

thanks for the reply Mine is about 6 thou, I haven't been about to check it properly yet though, will post back here with results when I do. Dale_FZ1 says that the nissan manual for the RB25 says 0.06mm to 0.11mm thrust.

Hi everyone Just wondering if anyone knows how much thrust there should be on the cams. Mine are about 7thou with the end cap on, with no lifters or other caps on. is this too much? Thanks Jono

dude, take the engine back to the builder, and make him fix it for free. It sounds like something is obviously, stupidly wrong.

not that expensive? I called 2 different Nissans and they quoted me $125 PER LIFTER. I have no idea why. I asked them to double and triple check. Yep. Per lifter. Its horse shit.

Interesting what they are coming up with these days.

good point. Whatever was there - I'd assume the RB30 restrictors then. Wonder what size they are?

I left the factory restrictors in since I am already robbing oil for the VCT. Drilled the oil returns too. WIll post up how it goes.

My Opinion (Done lots of tuning) : 1. Vipec V88 - Lots of features, then some, and plenty of logging \ inputs \ outputs. 2. I have a nismo 275lph intank pump. Stock Fuel rail, and 555cc injectors. The Nismo pump is rated at 275lph at 80psi. Which is heaps. I'd say enough for 400rwkw. 180lph was enough for me to just touch 300rwkw and start running out of fuel. It also drops straight into the stock position, you absolutely do not have to modify a thing. Touches the bottom of the tank too. EXTREMELY quiet. 3. Injectors - Whatever the biggest Nismos you can get. If they make bigger that 777cc then get them. If not, not sure on what else. Aim for a 4 hole spray pattern, and something that bolts in easily. They all do a good job. The bigger the better incase you decide to use E85.

Nismo is usually better than most things full stop. The Nismo Fuel pump for example. Injectors etc.

A: - That goes to the heater core. B: That is the rear knock sensor C: This is left empty D: This is the front Knock sensor Blue Circle: This are for both of the water sensors. Beware - The single plug sensor is usually the wrong thread. You can either cross thread it in or re-tap it. Green Circle: If you plan on removing the water to oil cooler, use this to put the oil temp sender in. If you keep it, there should be a bung in here.

+1000 to both

not sure yet - Its hose that is rated at some decent temperature (Got it from the hydraulic place) But I might just do it for piece of mind. What do you suggest shielding it with?

bump

don't block that one! I did this last weekend: Use tapered fitting where you can, but for the y piece, I went to bunnings and got a Brass tap splitter. The 90 degree bend on the left are also brass tap fittings. The rest are hydraulic tapered fittings. I used Loctite 567 on them. They will never ever leak. They binded up so well with that shit. Good luck.

The two I have held were metal. Maybe they were S1 turbos. I have never seen a SII turbo let the compressor go. Only the rear.

I am still amazed that some people think that the compressor wheel is nylon. Its a f**king alloy. Last time I checked, Nylon was a plastic. The turbo wheel on a Series 2 turbo IS NOT PLASTIC. IT IS AN ALLOY. How do I know? I have a Series 2 turbo. The wheel was metal.. *shakes head*

I am not sure what you mean, but if you are talking about the feed that passes through the block into the head, and you do not block this, you will have a catastropic failure. Where is the "drain" that you are talking about? Pics?

hey mate, $320 for the lot or the rear housing? Thats pretty good for the rear housing alone. Make a better offer and I will consider. To the rest - Still for sale

sold

But what if it was a pilot ejection button? Don't want to risk it hey

detonation and thrashing my friend. Seen that a million times.

engine sold, rear housing and dump pipe still for sale.

Good to see this thread still going! I see it a lot when I am googleing. I made 314rwkw on 18psi with water methanol injection. Torque was 720nm from 3000rpm all the way to the limiter. mods: Garrett GT3076, 0.6 compressor cover, 0.63 rear housing Powerfc (Tuned by me) Water Methanol Injection Standard Engine Standard Manifolds Front mount Intercooler Big Exhaust Nismo 555cc Injectors Standard FPR Nismo 275lph In tank pump They aren't really that great. Better off with a GT3076 with a 0.63 rear. I'll be keen to test that with the RB30. not with a 0.63 rear. I have a like new 0.63 internal gate rear housing for sale if anybody wants it, and a dump pipe to cat to suit. I'm unloading it because I have a RB2530 and the 0.63 rear might be fun, but is a little too restrictive for the RB30s extra breathing. Sale thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ml#entry5264403

hey mate, when you reply to this thread, everyone gets the email reply. Not just the person you quote. I'm keen though, should catch up for a meet.

Dale has got the right idea. I am in mackay, and I do a lot of tuning. Who is doing your tuning? There are a lot of people in mackay that you need to stay away from. I have split fires, and they have never missed a beat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3A_6gF1McY