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Everything posted by The Mafia
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Happy to help you out with all of that Scotty, it's easy as. Make sure you get the Honeywell 100psi sensor (They are about $200) for your fuel sensor. Need a good one for that.
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I've been running it for a year now, no issues. At idle, I have wound the pressure down to 220kpa, AFR stayed the same. Wound the pressure up to 400kpa at idle, AFR stayed the same I will look at making a table though. I liek to just drive and let the ECU do the watching / protecting. No guages except temp gets looked at.
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GTX3582, 0.82 rear housing. The wastegate port will need to be modified.
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There isn't much at the moment but I can tell you what i have done so far: 1. Installed Walbro 460lph 2. Installed voltage booster. (12v, 14v, 16.2v) 3. Billet Fuel Filter 4. Radium Jet pump / Venturi in the factory position 5. Upgraded to a turbosmart 1200 FPR. 6. Factory fuel rail having ends cut off and -6 JIC male ends welded on. 7. Plate / Coat the factory Fuel rail again for protection. 8. Mount Turbosmart 1200 FPR in the factory FPR position. 9. Eventually I will drop off the hard lines and put Ethanol proof ones on. Fairly basic upgrades, and a fuel system that will be able to handle 500awkw with a single fuel pump. I'm not worried about the dangers of leaning as I have my ECU set up to "Fuel pressure referenced" mode. Each injector pulse calculation is done based on a reading from the fuel pressure sensor I have fitted. From here, I have set limits so that the car cannot lean out. The only way I can do damage leaning it is if one single injector decides it wants to block.
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The Holley dominator 1800 pumps have a pair of Walbro 255lph pumps inside them. So fairly straight forward. Not a bad pump either. Plenty of flow for 450awkw
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Hey everyone, after doing my bench testing with E85, these were the results. I was going to post them but must have forgot: Walbro 460lph All at 65psi on E85 (This is the "267" model pump) 13.5v (this is the normal operating voltage) = 340lph (17 amps) 14v = 360lph (18 amps) 16v = 420lph (20 amps) 18v = 480lph (22.5 amps) You'll find these values are nearly the same (maybe 20-30lph lower) with gasoline, and the pump draws about 2 amps more at all voltages. I would have liked to do more tests but I had to hurry up and install the voltage booster into the car. Works well, I have the booster set at 16.2 volts to come on with the conditions 5800rpm & 16psi of boost. Needs to meet both in order to switch. otherwise, low speed for idle and cruise, and medium (booster on, but no boost which is 14.0v on the dot, 3500rpm & 5psi)
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Tiny Little Fuel Pressure Regulator Return Holes...
The Mafia replied to The Mafia's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I tested mine with the return line into a 20L bottle to eliminate the venturi / jet pump. I over did it and bought a radium engineering venturi for $120. It has 3 changeable nozzles, <250lph, 250-500lph, and >500lph -
Tiny Little Fuel Pressure Regulator Return Holes...
The Mafia replied to The Mafia's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
okay so I should be able to turn up the pump to full speed and still be at 300kpa? Or is there a careful balance with the size of the hole and flow? Surely when flowing 1200hp worth of fuel this tiny little hole is becoming a restriction at lower rpm? The issue is if I set the base pressure at full pump speed, then when at medium and low the base pressure is well under 300kpa. -
Hi Everyone. There is something that has been bugging the shit out of me. I've been looking at the return hole in a few fuel pressure regulators and they are f**king tiny. This is my issue - I had one reg, I would set the base at 300kpa. Then this happened. 3 Pump speeds, car was idling. I have a walbro 460lph pump. (low = 10v, medium = 14v, high = 16.2v) Pressures at idle: Low = 300kpa Medium = 340kpa High = 380kpa Return line was in a bucket to rule out everything else. So I bought a newer better quality reg - Turbo Smart 1200hp (I run E85). The hole is still tiny! it is about 3/16. If there is a shit load of flow needing to get back to the tank, this little hole isn't going to do it. I don't understand the design. I called turbosmart and the guy I spoke to knew his stuff. But he said that they've tried bigger holes and had issues so they went to a smaller hole again. When I log my fuel pressure, you can see the pressure jumping when the pump changes speeds. Is someone able to shed some light on this for me? How does this tiny return port work and why it needs to be so small / or if its meant to be bigger? Thanks
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Hi Everyone I'm aware there are aftermarket options but I have a question regarding the material and modification of the factory RB26 fuel rail. From what I have gathered from various resources, if I cut and weld a stainless fitting on the end I will burn the zinc coating off and expose the steel. Now we know E85 is a bitch when it comes to corrosion. Once the zinc coating is burned off I'm guessing it would start to rust internally. I want to weld -6 JIC male fittings onto either end. This will allow me to mount a Turbosmart 1200 reg in the factory position, feed it from the back, and remove lots of line and just keep it stock and tidy. Can a few people clarify this for me please? Also, can Zinc coating be reapplied?
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Would be better with injector duty cycle but a great idea. I did some tricky wiring and used a voltage booster in my car. Gives me three speeds - 10v, 14v, 16.5v
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I think Mackay not having much money is half of it. Tune the car, make them happy - then to find out they never had the money to pay in the first place "I'll pay you in a few weeks". Plus, facebook is bringing the idiots out. Everyone is an expert, no one has a clue..