The Mafia

Sorry to dig up and old thread, but it was useful. I have a couple of questions: 1. I called nissan. $180 for a set of Head bolts. They said I need washers too? 2. I called a local parts supplier - Said I can get Durapro bolts for $50 for a full set. Are these any good? 3. Called another supplier and said ARP head bolts where $300. Can they be had cheaper now the $AU is better against the US? Thanks

mate, did you ever find out what was wrong?

Glad I asked. I'm making about 430rwhp. So, thats probably 480hp at the flywheel? Definately get the steel flywheel then?

Hi Everyone I'm halfway through a Rb25\30 build, and I have taken my flywheel to the machinist. He said that I shouldn't use the flywheel because its an older cast iron flywheel, and they are dangerous. It does have some blue colouring in the center. He wants to replace it with a Steel flywheel. (The Machinist is family so he's not just trying to make money). Anyway, what should I do? I have RB30 flywheel that doesn't have hot spots, can I use that, or should I buy a new steel flywheel? The Clutch is an Excedy 3200pound clutch. Thanks Jono

BOV will also make this problem worse Take it off and put the stock one back on

Nice manifold but for that price, it better come with a hot japanese girl. I'm running 315rwkw with the stock manifold, so I don't think this is going to help you much, other than make your wallet lighter.

I didn't get them - The Machine shop did.

I'm sorry but this is bad advice. The BOV will not drag any WMI vapor through because when the BOV is open, the Intake manifold is under vacuum, and the WMI kit will not be pumping. If you don't believe me, I can take a photo of my turbo right now and show you that it is in perfect condition.

ok you have two problems here. 1. You never told us you had an aftermarket one installed already. 2. You should NEVER disconnect the vac line from a FPR.

Ok lets clear some things up. I've been running a high pressure system for YEARS. The nozzle is plumbed in about 5 cm after the BOV. There is absolutely nothing to worry about, it does not go back through, because if you buy a proper system, when you back off, the BOV will open, and the WMI system will stop pumping. The only reason you'd put a before turbo system on is if you want to run the turbo above its standard efficiency range. This effectively movesd the entire compressor map top the right. BUT you will get decreased turbo life if you do not use a proper kit that atomises the mixture properly, and shuts off properly. There are systems out there that work like a fuel injector. Anyway, do what I did, and there will be not problems. How to I know? I currently have my engine out of the car. The pistons are perfect. The turbo impeller is perfect. The inlet tracts are clean as a whistle. There is no carbon buildup. As you can see, I used that lug to have more meat to tap into.

your car already has a factory fuel regulator fitted. Why do you persist in getting another? And it might help if your posts are more coherent. This is a message forum, not a sms chat.

So what mods do you have? Looks pretty stock to me WMI needs a tunable ECU, and mods to make it worthwhile.

I'm very interested in the whole thing - Turbo, and manifold. Can you send more pictures of the manifold? Do you know what type of stainless it is and how thick it is? Just don't want something if its chinese and cracks after 3 months, and have to take it off. Thanks Jono

This bolt on oil cooler kit, what will it bolt onto? Do you still have it?

do you still have this? Are you interested in posting it?

can you please update your htread with what is sold? I would like to buy the oil cooler kit.

hey mate What type of manifold is it? Can you give details?

lol The good old days of the flutter and loud BOVs.... School holidays are still going I guess..

hehe sorry, been busy building my motor. It just kept pulling, all the way to 7,000rpm. I don't think it had much more left in it though. If going 100kmph, and you knocked the car back to third, youd start to fish tail. Was fun

Not a bad video. I've got the 0.63 Rear with a little can, and I can say that it made boost a little bit more agressively. I have a RB30 almost completed now though, so we'll see how that goes.

just a couple of questions: 1. is there a difference between the RB30 and RB25 Flywheels? 2. Same for the harmonic balancer?

is anyone able to answer this? I need to do my clutch and flywheel too.

bumperoo

lol. sorry about a thread revival, but do you still have the oil pump?

Hey guys. here is an update on the build. 1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings. 2. The Block has been decked 3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap. 4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another. 5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod. 6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1. 7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though. 8. Crank Collar Fitted. Will have the engine in about 3 days.