The Mafia

bump

I've never used the bung before, but I am sure its there if they say so. Just have a look around.

oh, and you're not going to get a mechanic that will flush it as good at this. And trust me, this process is the easiest bit of maintenance you can do! Took me less than an hour to do.

it will flush the block \ everything. Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in. All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full. You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car. Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out. Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

hey mate I am chasing a set of Throttle bodies and intake manifold for the RB26. Do you have any for sale?

Hey mate, do you still have the stock throttle bodies and intake manifold? If so, I'd like to take it off your hands.

I'll confirm this. All Powerfcs made for the R33GTS-T will suit series 1 and 2. CHange your title and you may get more potential buyers.

Had a few tyre kickers, but that doesnt matter. Decided it was time to get off my butt and put the 3.0 litre in. Should be ready in a month. Tell me about it. And quite a few have large turbos on them.

It will run, you just group the channels together. You'll end up with a wasted spark configuration. Personally, I'd avoid the haltechs like the plague. The Vipec V44 is the equavalent and it will kick is ass. You won't need a harness either - It will install inside your factory ECU case, and plug straight in. Will cost about $1300.

Sure is, ready to go.

Awesome thread Guiltoy, well done mate. You're doing great

Bump. I'm willing to pay for postage. You'll save about $300 if I do this. I'm also dropping the price to $1700.

I live in mackay. I can pull 300rwkw, and good road use, not just a full power tune, out of a properly set up car with a power FC or Vipec in just under 3 hours. This is obviously when someone brings me the car with all the things I have asked for sorted (New fuel pump, removed After market FPR, new plugs and coil packs if needed, and any other things sorted to support that power.) Microtech ECUs are absolutely shithouse to tune I might add, and they are not something to want to have anyway, as you're going to have the car back every 3 months needing a retune, for a significant amount of money. If I were you, I'd sell it, get a Vipec or Power FC, and get a decent tune in it. You're more than welcome to travel to me if you want a tune - But I will not tune a microtech. I simply don't like them. Also, I tune cars for love, not money. I only charge to maintain my gear and buy extra stuff that will help the next tune - Not to run a workshop, or take money from someone. Exactly right, seen this many times. Was the $1k installation AND the powerfc, or just the installation costs? It took me 45 mins to install a PowerFC D Jetro and boost controller kit into someones car one day.

BLEED THE SYSTEM

and my number is 0439 336 407 email : paceys[a]gmail.com

In mackay north QLD mate. Postage might be a bit, sent a gearbox for $120 through pack and send. Tell you what though, I am sure we can work out some kind of a deal. How interested is he?

I will add that the engine has done 99,00kms. Timing belt was changed at 70,00kms.

As the title States, I have a Complete RB25 ready to drop into a car. - Complete running engine (unopened) - No Fuel Rail - No Throttle body - No wiring loom - Has over the engine air intake - Has exhaust manifold Would suit an engine swap if you've blown your RB25, or an upgrade from a RB20. Engine was compression tested before the car was taken off the road, and the tests were all 160psi with a Variance of 2psi. If you not sure was this means - it means that the engine is in excellent condition. I've always used Fully synthetic oil, and changed the oil every 4,000kms. The engine is showing no signs of wear. A water methanol injection kit was used with this engine so it should be clean internally, and this would have also be the cause of it showing no signs of wear. There is something different about this engine though - It's held its 300rwkw power for quite a while, with no signs of wear. I'm thinking its got a thicker head gasket, and may have some internal work done. I do not guarantee this though, there is only a slim chance. I sell it as a standard well maintained engine. Anything else that may be inside there is yours as a bonus. The tune I have run was ALWAYS safe and maintained. As most of you know, I don't flog the shit out of my cars either, I look after them. Car never saw the limiter. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Price: $1800 ONO.

I don't buy from Nengun anymore, its not worth the stupid long waits or hassle. And they are arrogant pricks.

Kind of, my mate is a diesel fitter and he's coming over to do it, and I will be assisting. He's done a couple before, knows what he is doing. I've since found some bargains: 1. Got a set of ACL duralite Pistons (Stock replacements, but heaps lighter) these are balanced. 2. RB30 rods, Balanced. The ACL pistons came with rings, should I use these or get better ones? I will have to get the details on them for you all.

You learn by researching. The question has been asked 1000 times, and 999 times people direct them to the search function. You don't learn by taking the easy way out and just posting a thread on a forum I'm afraid. The search function is there to serve the forums primary purpose - To act as a huge database. So search it up, I am sure you'll see some interesting discussions on this type of build. Also, You can shove your thumbs down up your ass. People get sick of answering the same questions over and over again when people are too lazy to search. I searched for "RB26 Crank in RB25" Here is the search: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...rb26+crank+rb25 Here are some results that are plain as day. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...rb26+crank+rb25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb26+crank+rb25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb26+crank+rb25 This is why barely anyone gave a shit to reply to your thread. Its been covered...

I was thinking about it, but do you think that is really necessary for 300rwkw and a povo build? Only be reving it to 7,000rpm, maybe a tiny bit higher if others think its safe to, and if the turbo has enough puff.

Hey guys I have a standard RB25 that is laughing at my 300rwkw. (Loves the water meth though). It has some small problems, like the sump gasket leaking, and the synchros need a service etc. Engine and gearbox have to come out to fix these problems, so while they are out, lets just put a RB30 back in there? lol. So what I want to do, is install a standard built RB30 and sell off my Complete RB25. What I have: RB25 complete head, lightly ported. RB30 NA Block complete Still built, only head off, only 160,000kms, hone marks still in bore. GTR Oil Pump Ok so here is my plan: 1. RB30 block dissasembled, acid bathed, xrayed, honed and decked slightly. Maybe a little more to raise the compression a tiny bit. 2. Drill and tap hole for New tensioner. 3. Head cleaned and reconned. 4. Grub Screw VCT oil feed in head, and do the internal VCT oil feed mod, block rear oil feed, 1mm restrictor in front feed. 5. GTR oil pump cleaned and checked. 6. Get crank checked. Fit crank collar. 7. Assemble RB30 Block with original pistons, rods, and crank. New Rings, main and big end bearings. 8. Bolt head on with Head gasket (not sure what I use yet) 9. New Water pump, timing belt, RB25 Harmonic balancer. 10. Screw cleaned up, milled, and sealed china copy side mount intake manifold onto head. 11. Install Injectors, Water meth, throttle body. 12. Install Exhaust manifold. 13. Install Turbo (GT3037) with a 0.82 rear housing. 14. Have exhaust modified, and intake piping fixed. Install big ass f**k off stupid twirly, duck whistle, fluttering blow off valve so women take their clothes off and jump into the car. Install Factory BOV, and plumb back. 15. Drop engine back into car. 16. Install Gearbox. 17. Run in on dyno, maybe just on the street. 18. Drive around. 19. Run 11's down the quarter. 20. Post a thread on SAU about it. Questions: 1. What rings should I buy for the standard pistons? - Can anyone recommend any? 2. What bearings, and what clearances should I run? 3. Have I missed anything stupidly important or worth mentioning? Car has Nismo 555's, GT3037, WMI, 600x300x75 IC, 3.5inch exhaust, Powerfc, I tune it, etc. Currently making an easy 310rwkw+ on 20psi. Been like that for 2 years now, and compression tests are all still consistant and high. Wish I new if it had forgies or not, its a bit of a weird one to be honest with you. I'll have a look when I have the sump off.

there is a search function, and if you do not know these things then I suggest you take your engine to a engine builder, and not try to do it yourself.