The Mafia

its a high flow. You might reach 250rwkw with it depending how they flowed it. THe Regulator might be an option, just be very careful.

most likely, but forget the FPR, and just geth te remap. Bigger inejctors might be worht installing, not sure how RB20 injectors go? They are fairly small aren't they?

what sort of turbo do you have? I might be able to predict max power.

not the best way of doing it but dial the crank angel sensor back to remove timing. Its the only way without aftermarket management.

not a bad piece of kit, things I would not use - 1. Leave your factory FPR on, don't bother with the adjustable. 2. Check the manifold, if its cheap chinese, it will crack. Maybe sell it and use your cast manifold. 3. Clean and flow the injectors. I'm running one of these turbos, factory manifolds (intake and exhaust) Nismo 555cc injectors, and a q45 afm with water meth injection, and I get over 300rwkw.

sorry mate, I haven't changed one before so I have told you all that I can tell you. I'm sure there is someone that has done it before. Just remember you can push the stock injectors to almost 240rwkw. Won't that be enough? I don't recommend pushing too muc more out of them, one might beak and cause a catastropic failure.

lol, the injectors need to be dialed in... It will be dumping massive amounts of fuel in. Also, same for hte AFM. Needs a tune!

Nothing wrong with backyard jobs MOst of mine is backyard work, and better than any exhause shop in town. As for emmissions - I'd talk to Guilt-Toy, he's passed emmissions with a Powerfc and 380rwkw. He might know the tricks to get emmisions passed with a remap, or even a daughteboard.

Careful with the sard one, most cars i Have tuned with sard ones I have had to pull them off due to regulation problems. They were all over tne shop with AFRs and proved useless to tune. Same deal with Malpassi. Just curious, what are you mods? If you are still running the standard turbo, then that will max out before the Injectors will, they usually hit 95% duty cycle at about 230rwkw - 240rwkw. But anyway, a mod listing will be good. Also, your original question - yes, you need a vac line on the FPR, as it also supplies boost to it, and will raise the pressure for every psi of boost it sees. The Factory FPR gives one extra PSI of fuel for every extra PSI of boost is sees. THe base pressure for a R33 is 43psi.

Hmm. It took me 6 years to make 2,200 posts. You, 1.5 years to make 1600 posts. Lets do some maths: Me = 1.6 posts per day. R33Dickhead= 3 post per day. Plus, you managed to post almost as much as me in just over a year, that it took me 6 years. Oh, and most of your posts are useless horseshit that is not worth reading. You should go back to installing a Shiny noisy poofter blow off valve to your car, and a big fuel pressure regulator that can support 1000 horsepower. Would go well with that bulk of power you are making. The points I were getting at is (there is more than one now) 1. If you aren't making more than 200rwkw, you don't need a FPR. 2. R33cruiser talks shit and should be banned from the forced induction section, and joined to the ricer bolt shiny thing on dickhead forum called www.nissansilva.com Anyway, if you would like some further insight, just let me know. THe only insight you'll get from R33cruiser is the insight from the inside of his ass, as thats where his head is.

do you have a valid reason as to why you are installing one? If you are just putting one on for the hell of it then don't even worry about it. Put your shiny new one on ebay and sell it. I'm running 300rwkw+ and still use a factory regulator. If you put this on, prepare for your car to run like shit or unpredictable.

mine did, just over 6,000rpm on the power fc. I had a picture somewhere of the voltages hitting the ceiling. I tuned around it though, as i Had a powerfc. But if yours is maxing out at 6200rpm in 5th, why would you need to bother fixing it? Do you do circut work, or do you like racing on the streets above 230kmph?

Sure is, completely stock engine. Since this dyno graph, I've leaned it to 12.7:1, and fixed that bump in the curve. That was at 18psi, I've also since had it up to 22psi. Makes a fair whack more power at that boost, but I couldn't control the boost properly so I pulled it back to 19psi. I do ALL of my own tuning.

Hi people I've been looking at various gear ratio calculators etc, and cannot find one that calculates gear ratios properly for me. In my car, I hit redline at 80kmph (8000rpm) and its a R33 GTS-T. All of these calculators are suggesting 110kmph in second, which I doubt. Can anyone give me the real speed vs rpm? I;ve tried this one: http://justskylines.com/skyline/knowledgeb...calculator.aspx and it was out by a fair bit. It says that 5th gear at 8000rpm is 187kmph? That cannot be right..? Unless my car is out?

no worries at all. Just saving you the disappointment, and saving you waste a lot of money.

just be careful, those "nissan 0.63" rear housings are crap, and give bad results. You might be better getting the proper Garrett option, the manifold flange is the same, just the dump flage is different. But you'll need an exhaust upgrade anyway, so that won't matter.

you need to understand that turbos come with different configurations. My 3037 has a 0.63 garret rear housing that has an internal wastegate. The Heat shield might fit, but I have never tried to put it on. I left mine off, its cluttered down there and hidden enough as it is.

you don't need the water meth Just put a 3037 on and aim for 260rwkw at 14psi. The stock turbo can handle up to 210rwkw, and if you aim for a low number you will be disappointed.

well, as with any mod, if it is significant enough you need to upgrade its supporting systems.. I have: Powerfc Injectors Fuel Pump FMIC Exhaust WMI

2871? I run a low mount GT3037 pushing 300rwkw and 720nm of torque. Car is a standard R33 Series 2 with mags. Got suspension but it doesn't even look lowered. Everything looks pretty much stock.

I have all the necessary gear, and I tune too. (datalogit, wide band, etc) If you are even in Mackay let me know.

I'm pretty sure that the GT3582 is at it absolute peak anyway, and won't be able to make any more power. You'll find if you upgrade your cams, you're increasing flow in the head, but the turbo won't be able to keep up anymore. So to get the gain that you want, you'll need to upgrade cams and the turbo. Get a T04Z, or something a bit bigger?

the engine is out of the car already, should be an easy fix Just might not be cheap..

Well, the GTR have a blocked feed from the factory, and a restricted feed up the front. So less again. I'm pretty sure SK has said that even with a blocked feed at the back, there is still more than enough oil for the hydraulic lifters in the RB25.

dude, putting a bigger oil pump on, and not doing the rear head drain, or blocking the rear oil feed in the head makes the problem worse. The whole problem is oil pooling in the head do to bad drainage at high RPM. If you put a bigger oil pump on, it will simply pump more up there and into the catch can, creating a disaster. I've seen this happen - GTR oil pump on a RB25 with no extra drains... or the rear feed blocked. Blew most of the oil into the catch can.. and then when the sump was starved... bang. You're giving bad advice I'm afraid...