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Sorry - forgot about that. Edited. ($1150)

Taking too long to stop your doped out R chassis so you can holla at some hot ass girls on the street? Then look no further. These came off my GTR and have only traveled 45,000kms (verified with Japanese department of transport) What you get: 2x Front Brembo Calipers and High quality racing pads 2x Front 330mm Factory Rotors 2x New Non ADR approved brake lines 2 x Factory Brake lines I will supply the rotors machined ready to go. Perfect big brake upgrade for your S or R chassis. If you want to stop like a mofo, this will do it. Happy to post at buyers expense. I *May* be able to organise cheap postage to Brisbane if you can pick it up from a Depot. $1150, plus whatever postage comes to. Thanks.

lol. Tone it down Mick_o. Lets just discuss these turbos. They are an interesting upgrade. Really looking forward to your results sneakey Pete.

Thanks Status. Mine goes nuts too. As I said earlier I configure it on my laptop, and then plug it into a power bank and I get no noise. It is a pain in the ass because the software would be good to look at. I do have a spare tablet here that I might just dedicate to knock detection. The plex is great, but $2k is a huge amount for me to spend at present unfortunately.

Just a huge thread revive. What are you guys using now? My k-Mon is doing the job still, but I get that huge static (unusable) when I try and use laptop USB power with anything else plugged in to the USB (Nistune \ Wideband etc). I have to take a portable power bank with me to be able to hear it. I simply set the settings / frequencies I want, and then unplug it and connect it to the power bank. Only downside is that I can't use the program and watch it on the screen. There is a new version out too: http://gizzmousa.com/knock-monitor.html The Main user difference between the Kmon and Kmon2 is the analogue output. There are 4 zones each represented by the tempo of the flashing ‘AN’ LED. Working from fully anti­clockwise to clockwise on the ‘AN ADJ’ trimpot. 1. When Fully anticlockwise the LED flashes very slowly, this is a fixed 100ms analogue output update and will output the highest knock reading seen by the kmon in the preceding 100ms. 2. Turning the trimpot slowly clockwise, you will see the LED’s tempo speed up, this is now 10ms updates and will output the highest knock reading seen by the kmon in the preceding 10ms. 3. Again turning the trimpot slowly clockwise, you will see the LED’s tempo speed up a lot, this is now 1ms updates and will output the highest knock reading seen by the kmon in the preceding 1ms. 4. Upon turning the trimpot further clockwise the LED’s tempo will slow down significantly. This will now be approx 40ms and is lineally adjustable all the way to fully clockwise which will be approx 3ms, the LED’s tempo will alter inline with the adjustment.

This looks really cool

It's a series 2 by the way. Not sure if they are different to series 1.

Nope. Tight and worked perfectly

R33 GTS-T Drivers window switch and arm rest cover. Excellent condition https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153699520892249 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153699521022249 $100, plus postage ($10-$20, will check)

Depends on the ECU. Factory / Powerfc - Unplug the TPS and it will lock at 15degrees in the ECU, then you can adjust the CAS to get it right. Link / Others - They have adjusters in the software to lock and adjust it so that you don't have to adjust the CAS.

I haven't even moved with this yet. Funds and time is the issue. Still tuning my -5s anyway. Managed to get them to come on pretty early, next step is closing up the LSA to see if it is any better.

I just got my oil test back after running about 300L of E85 through my RB26 with 400awkw. (Stock motor with 50,000kms on it). Tests had less water in the oil than when I was just running 98.

the solenoid actually stops the oil AFTER the gear. What this does is pressurises it and pushes it / makes it rotate inside. Thanks my understanding anyway. When the solenoid opens, it releases the pressure and a spring returns the cam to the normal position. Please correct me if I am wrong. It indeed does need pressure.

I recently tested a 10 year old RB30 Single cam with 40,000kms on it. Had 0% - 1% leak down. Just about ripped the guys arms off when he was holding onto the bar holding the crank still. (I put 150psi into the cylinder). They are impressive. I think when building an engine these should be considered

How many of you are run in gapless rings? I only seem to hear good things about them and I've even heard that they pressurise the sump a lot less. I'm not an expert but if someone wants to add their expertise to this I would appreciate it.

The delay would be very small, I wouldn't worry about that. The only time where would be a noticeable delay is if you ran a huge hose. Normal tiny vac hose will be fine.

I've tried to find this info but it was impossible. I ran out of puff on E85 with mine at 6500rpm @ 380awkw. I would say that is about 300LPH at 65psi. One of the main issues with the bosch pumps making noise is their feed. When they are noisy it means they are starving and not sucking in fuel as fast as they would like to. They have a huge suction fitting for a good reason. Have a look, if you improve the feed of the pump (Larger hoses) you'll find that the noise will be significantly less. Also, for you of you fellow propellor heads. I was reading this thread. It has almost EVERYTHING you need to know about fueling. Here is something that I will be trying to do in the coming weeks: at 12 V the 044 makes 12.9 liters per hour per amp at 12 V the 040 makes 9.27 liters per hour per amp note according to Bosch's own data (chart in post one) the 044 makes 240 L/hour at 13 V! 8.3% increase in volts produces 20% more flow! i spoke w the Jim at Kenne Bell friday.... according to their very well executed flow bench the Walbro E85 460LPH makes: 389 Liters per hour at 60 psi on 13.5 volts and............... 568 Liters per hour at 60psi on 16 volts. http://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/fuel-pumps-2014-a-1062109/ Yep.... I will be using some step up transformers, or increasing my alternator voltage (Probably won't be able to do that though). even at 15 volts that pump would be more than enough for me on it's own. (450awkw @ 25psi)

I have fully ported exhaust manifolds, rear housings, and wastegate ports. The wastegate ports were cleaned up as much as possible without taking too much out. Everything was port matched so I am hoping that is helping. Manifolds, rear housings and dumps all Cerakote coated too (1200 degrees). Just need 2 x GTX2860 cores and my factory front covers bored to match.

Would the smaller stock compressor cover have any issues / restrictions at all if fitted and ground out correctly?

We really need to get this back on track. THis is NOT a single vs twin discussion. Technology is getting better in both areas. If I had the money I would be using one of those electric assisted turbos that the F1 cars use. (and just to piss old mate "single is better" off, I would run twin electric assisted lol)

I'm shit at the track. But looking at that - it goes from nothing to 700nm within 1000rpm, and then it falls away 2,500rpm later. It has a 2,500rpm usable powerband? How is that useful? And having power go from nothing to everything within 1000rpm is definitely useless. How about a powerband that is 4,000rpm to 5,000rpm wide? More logical one would think.... You also seem like one of those people that thinks that if you have a high power number, you're an awesome driver? Nope. That dyno is the shittest I have ever seen for track use. Single vs twin... who gives a f**k, as long as there is a usable powerband.

FFS this is a thread about GTX twins. Not some dinosaur T04Z. Wow, steep curve. Not a single f**king torque curve to be seen. Probably don't even know what "area under the curve" means. It means a usable powerband. Not some dyno queen looking graph. GTFO, I'm sick of reading this shit. I want to know about GTX twins. I like my engine bay to look stock. And it still does. To the others - When $$$ permits, I'm considering GTX2860s in stock compressor covers and 0.63 rears. I want something more responsive than my -5s. I'm getting 23psi at 4800rpm in 3rd and I want it to be at least 600rpm earlier. I would prefer 20psi by 4,000rpm. Would bring the torque up earlier and hold it with the GTX compressors better efficiency at higher boost levels. (I use the car for the type of track that has corners..)

I'm trying to help someone with one of these. There is bugger all in the manual, and from what I can see there is no gain control?

haha yeah sorry about that. So if I do the coke bottle trick I won't need to worry about the bleed screw?