The Mafia

you maybe should change the airflow meter 8 more times, and the cas 6 more times? Obviously you've realised that its not those by now? Your timing belt slipped a tooth?

700382-5012 GT3076R 350-500Hp (2.0L-3.0L) 700177-5007 436157-23 YES 0.60 57.00 56 448420-2 54.98 84 Not Supplied N/A N/A YES N/A Not Supplied YES M14x1.5 Inverted Flare .438in-24UNS 2 Bolt M8x1.25 Purchase Turbine Housing & Actuator Seperately I've emailed you a speadsheet with them all on it

actually. no. HKS make a GT3037 Pro or GT3037 ProS Garrett Make a vanilla GT3037. The difference is the Compressor Trims. Garrett run a 56trim, HKS use a 52 trim

mate, a WMI failure can destroy an engine in seconds, I don't know if I would trust something like this. Is it a sureflow pump? Also, pressure switches aren't that good, because your spraying the same amount of water in at 3,000rpm as you are at 7000rpm, and since there is a lot of water going in at low revs, the car can shudder. I like the idea of variable water, brings it in nice and smooth, you'll use a hell of a lot less water\meth too. Kits are only $600 now, and if you can' afford a kit at $600, why are you chasing the power, or even own a skyline? Sounds harsh, and I apologise, but saving a few hundred on a cheap unknown kit could cost you well into $4,000 on a engine rebuild?

lol queues in discopotato...

I don't think the problem happens in the R33s, I tested mine and found it to have 14.4 volts. The R32s suffer the drop really bad, like down to 11 volts, and it almost halfs the flow from the pump.

I'm not sure if you'll need a surge tank, check with Guilt-Toy, he has the same setup. The Nismo pump is a perfect install, you won't get any better than that.

you've solved your own problem - I bet your plug gaps are not 0.8mm

didn't know it was there, so I have replied.

here are the pics again, for some reason I can edit my original post. oh, and no, it isn't labour intensive, if yopu plan what you are going to do the night before, should only take about 2 hours, and f**k all work.

thats the thread, has heaps of stuff on the setup... Sorry, lost the pics

forget the fake one, as it could destroy your engine if it is a super fake one. Why spend all the money and skimp on the main component? Go and ask for a Garrett GT3037. I had the 7 blade version of the GT3076 and it only made 240rwkw before it ran out of puff

I picked up about 40 - 50rwkw with it

no I don't understand because the nismo comes on a factory pump bracket that puts the pickup exactly where it needs to be, and where the factory pickup is anyway. Look up pictures of it and you will see what i mean. I too had a walboro 255lph, and it would not use it for anything over 270rwkw.

EVeryone that whinges about atmo BOVs stalling their car, or how they made 300rwkw with just a Front mount and exhaust, etc, take note of this 9.5 \ 10 thread. THIS is the shit we need to see in forced induction. Well done mate, very well done. I might have to go and di this for my old coil packs, as I still have them. I have a high respect for you now, and keep up the ideas and good work.

what the? You don't want to take a shit pump out of your tank because its mounted good? Buy a Nismo 275lph and it will sit even better

depends on how happy the dyno is I managed 140rwkw on a real dyno without fudged figures with a full exhaust and front mount at 10psi Then with a Powerfc and 12psi, I managed 209rwkw on the same dyno. I wouldn't waste your time with a SAFC, get a powerfc, much better to tune.

haha, couldn't have put it better myself.. You do 10 or so cars and get slack to do your own. And at low boost I still manage to go too fast anyway.. At the moment, it gets me to and from work Thanks Guilt-Toy. hey, there is a later version of co-pilot out too, might want to check it out

hey retard - read my sig again. The 114mph was done ON A MILD TUNE. AFR's were at 10:1 becauise I Was running a brand new bigger fuel pump. I haven't run since then, the f**ken track was destroyed in a flood. Are you a retard, or just want to talk shit because you can't accept the fact that you got jipped with your dyno?

I will get to the track, when its fixed, it was destroyed in the flood we had here 3 months ago. And keeping on top of a setup that shouldn't be making this kind of power needs constant attention, seeing 314rwkw is nearly unheard of with a 0.63 rear housing on a GT3037 at 18psi of boost. Plus I've made changes that require new tunes. Latest change is seeing an extra 40kms out of a tank at the same power and drivability. Averaging 12l per 100kms around town which is great, better than most cars. Also, I don't need to believe anything by the way, I've seen plenty of numbers to know what are bogus and what are believeable, and your numbers are crap, full stop. The stock turbo is not capable of flowing enough air to make that sort of torque, and to make the torque at such a low power you'd need to be either dynoing a tractor, or a diesel ute with massive stroke. As I said before, you're only going to sound like a tool telling someone experienced that you made 670nm and only 213rwkw.. I don't think I need to say anything more on this. I absolutely hate usless dyno operators that don't know how to create decent readouts. I've been to a dyno before, and told them to shove their figures up their ass because they tried to tell me all of these fake and bullshit readings. Then I attended a mainline dyno, had a mate that had the mainline training run it and put REAL correction factors in and everything was perfect. Just like another guy on my home forum - Had a nice big dyno readout, even posted the dyno sheet. Had a look at the correction factors. Ambient air temp was 22 degrees (in summer which is really about 33 degrees) and the IAT was 65 degrees......... Nice big fudge there.. tried to tell me his starion with a 300hp turbo could make 500hp at the engine.. Anyway, enjoy your dodgey readings.

Well that means my car would dyno at 1000nm+ on your special mode then? Actually, the 114mph was run at about 270rwkw on a mild tune, lower boost. The 314rwkw was done well after that 114mph run. Its doing a lot more than that now...Smartass... Might want to do a real dyno run one day, anyone that knows what they are talking about are going to think you're any idiot claiming 213rwkw and 670nm or torque.... An Edited BA XR8 with 240rwkw only makes 550 - 600nm or torque. And you saying that yours is higher? Why? Is it special? As I said before, I made: 209rwkw @ 420nm - Standard Turbo (done on 3 different dynos) 240rwkw @ 520nm - GT3076 - Cropped Turbine 300rwkw @ 695nm - GT3037 314rwkw @ 720nm - GT3037 Bit of a pattern there eh? Ahh, but I don't know what I'm talking about, even though I've tuned about 30 cars, and tuned mine about 30 times..

you have more choices what ever happened to the original BOV line? did it magically disappear? There is one for the factory boost guage THere is another back there just sitting around doing nothing there are more free if you choose to remove your carbon canister. Map sensor, and FPR pressure, are definately mission critical lines, so stay away from them. You do realise a f**kup on that line and a sudden drop of fuel pressure could blow your engine? Also, the BOV could cause fluctuations on the FPR pressure, making it go all over the place? I can't confirm that, but its definately a possibility..

what special dynos are you guys going to? Anything above 450nm on a factory setup is a load of shit I've been to 3 different dynos, all come out the same. 240rwkw and 480nm torque, and this was with a GT3076 7 blade compressor and cropped turbine. Two of these dynos now say 314rwkw and 720nm. Might want to tell the operator to run his dyno properly. Thats simply a crap reading. You need to be pushing more than 260rwkw to manage that much torque. f**k I love it how people have no idea

biggest mistake i see a lot of people do because they are too lazy to find a real vacuum line. Do people know that this is dangerous, and since your adding crap to this mission critical line, it might leak \ come apart and lean the engine, and possibly kill it at high revs? I've even seen someone dumb enough to run a line from the front of the engine off the FPR line, over the top of the engine down onto the turbo boost controller... Hot engine, rubber hose.. attached to a FPR line. If I were you, I'd plump that line to a better spot to start with anyway.

considered buying one from a real shop?