The Mafia

This one is better: http://users.on.net/sau/pacey.avi Port shrouded is a "windowed" compressor cover Looks like this:

rofl, you obviously haven't heard a GT3037 with a port shrouded compressor cover at 20psi..

not bad, but $750 is a bit high?

its normal, as my note went higher going from a 0.82 down to a 0.63

This reply, simply cracked me up, 110%. Thanks for humoring me today..haha. f**k, we need more fully sic uleh liek this. thanks for the great replies. I've got some thinking to do, and from what disco has said (thanks too) I will see if I can get a bracket made up to support the flange on my next manifold. Its probably going to be an extrusion honed job. And thats even more of a reason to brace it, as if it cracks I'm going to lose an expensive manifold. maybe just a angle bar from the bottom of the head flange, welded to the turbo flange, either one or two. That way it will support the weight of the turbo. As for the nuts commin loose, I've spoken to Dale_FZ1 and he said that the exhaust shops sell these special nuts that are meant for this kind of thing. So I'll grab some of them and whack them on. If they'd have to be the right material to withstand the heat if purpose built for exhausts. Might be time to bolt on a extrusion honed manifold, and some new gaskets. I might even put the 0.82 rear on and aim for more power? Or maybe not, I'm happy with a V8 style 300rwkw.. haha. 700nm of torque at 3,000rpm feels great.

thanks heaps, I didn't realise this. Maybe I need to change the bolts too because I am not sure what we put in, and if they are stretching they might break...

lol come on, that was a nice reply. But the thread starter should also check the IAC valave just in case. I still think the better intake is allow for the BOV to cause bigger fluctuations in the air charge to cause stalling.

Hey everyone, I have a simple question. My Turbo to Manifold bolts keep coming loose. The Tabs that are there have finally broken from me bending them away to tighten the bolts etc. Can anyone suggest something that I can use to keep them tight? Some kind of thread locker, or should I be looking at something else? Lock nuts are useless in this situation because the nylon will melt due to the heat. Surely there is something out there that is heat resistant for this purpose? I've also thought of other reasons: 1. Exhaust it putting too much weight and play on the turbo, working it loose 2. There is 2 x 10mm spacer plates and gaskets, could be causing a problem or helping it work loose? 3. Something wrong with the manifold bolts \ studs? 4. Maybe my atmospheric BOV is causing the turbo to fall off because its too fully sic uleh? Hmmm. Any creative input would be good. Thanks Jono

doesn't matter if the BOV was *apparently* working fine before you changed things. Since you've changed the Intake, its probably changed the characteristics of the air flow to allow the BOV to cause stalling (ie allowing more airflow etc) Block the BOV up and I bet it stops stalling. When are people going to learn - These systems need to be sealed, thats how they are designed. You absolutely can't install a BOV because they are not meant to be there.

The sound gets annoying as hell after a while, but its not because I don't like the sound, I actually like some types of sounds, not these fairy ones people try to make.. Also, I tune cars - I can get a ATMO BOV to work, but whats the point? The system that these people are bolting them to aren't designed to have a massive deliberate air leak added to them. They are designed to be sealed. I've also seen a lot of BOVs sucking at idle... Hmmm, like some unfiltered air do they? Thats exactly right - You don't have to be a mad engineer to understand that if you complain about a ATMO BOV causing stability problems with idle, stalling at lights, etc, you're an idiot. You're also an idiot if you think that it is supposed to work. 95% of the people that do it don't even know how the air measurement system works on these models.. Yeah, but as you probably have no idea, most of these "tough" cars are running a MAP system due to maxing out all available MAF systems.. There is a BIG difference between a MAP and MAF system.. Well, I'm not really worried, I like them, 90% of the people that have seen them like them, and you know what else? My car doesn't stall at lights, idle like a pig, or backfire on gear changes. Oh, and it doesn't sound like a donkey having a pen shoved up its ass when you change gears either. All it does, is fry the tyres, whistle it's ass off when its ramming 20psi of boost into the engine, while delivering 314rwkw and 720nm or torque to the bitumen. I can honestly tell you that 90% of the people that fit them to standard cars are looking for attention. And last time I checked, these people didn't have women getting wet, and trying to dive into the windows going "Fully sic uleh!" asking the guy to make love to them for 16 hours straight. The only attention I saw was cops, pulling some fool over and giving him a nice fine for undue noise, or in cop terms, "sounding like a dickhead"..

so you want you car to make you look like a wanker and stall a lot?

At 15psi this should make at least 300rwkw, a T78 can make 300rwkw at 15psi. Boost is definately not the problem. In saying that, maybe is a high pressure boost leak? Can you check the plumbing? Use a compressor, and pressurise the system. Go right up to 30psi and see if you can hear anything. You'll need to fabricate some sort of inlet that you can hook the compressor up to. rofl, who told you this? A Brand new RB25 makes 172psi and its comp ratio is 9:1. Its definately not accurate. What if the engine is worn? Also, there shouldn't be any more than 5psi variance between the cylinders. 20psi? haha. If my engine had even 15psi variance, I'll pull it down..

This is retarded. Why would you have to change your driving style for a BOV? The car should never stall, period. With it in, it is stuffing up the AFM system, hence just generally being useless. Learn how this shit works people!

actually, its better that the heat stays in until the dump pipe That way the gas is hotter, more expanded, and has higher velocity. This helps the turbo spool much better.

nice reply URAS

add timing in that area. Its easy to do, just make sure it isn't knocking.

Just trying to find some answers. THis torque reading is fairly high, and imo too high for a GTRS so I am wondering why for a number of reasons: 1. Maybe I could replicate it on my setup 2. Maybe My setup is low on torque 3. Is the dyno reading incorrectly Just a note - 118mph is a high trap speed. My mate with an XR6T ran 118mph with 310rwkw and 900nm. Are you sure you're running 260rwkw or could you be higher, but the dyno actually read less?

I have a rule - NEVER use the FPR vaccum line for anything what so ever. Its too mission critical. Use something else, there are plenty of lines unther there.

if those points are your reasoning, please do so, but delete your account and never come back.. I'm not even going to bother

well, this is how i see it - THe rods and pistons would make no difference at all to the figures, yours will just last longer. The cams, well, you have cams, and I have water methanol injection. So that would balance it out a fair bit. Strange one this one.

hand isn't on anything, because how the hell could a smaller turbo make more torque than one significantly bigger? It doesn't make sense at all. Oh, and I compared my dyno to the other one done in second gear, not yours. BUt I still find it hard to believe that you are making 800nm from a GTRS - thats not correct. The turbo is simply too small to make that kind of torque. There is something fishy about your dyno run - * what gear was it in? * I'm no expert at dyno settings, but ours are different, most likely why yours is higher. * Do you have diff gears etc? Something isn't right.

are you sure these will fit a RB30?

Time for a new dyno operator. Doing a dyno run in second is compeltely stupid. Auto's need to be locked into 3rd gear. Your torque figure is all hot air, realistically, it will be a bit above 500nm. I've got 720nm with 314rwkw in 4th gear, so if I did my car in second gear, I'd have about 1000nm... And people wonder why I'm always questioning dyno readouts.. Especially those with a 30degree difference between their ambient and Intake temperatures... oh, and this is a real curve, done in 4th gear..

The nismo 275lph pump comes with its own cradle and touches the very bottom of the tank. It shits all over any bosch. Oh, and its quiet - I can't hear it at all.

The rears are the same, and I reccomend grabing the 0.82 rear because even on your 3.0l a 1.06 housing will be laggy (close to 5,000rpm)