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The Mafia

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Everything posted by The Mafia

  1. what tester did you use? I got one from supercheap and it read really low like this one. Then I got another and it read 30psi too high. You need a good quality one.
  2. 1.1mm gap is too much, gap them to 0.8mm
  3. well, sounds like you're lucky if its only the turbo. Time to bolt your kit on.
  4. so what kind of money? $5k? or more?
  5. this took a weird turn. Keep us updated.
  6. I know that this sounds a bit rough, but if the turbo is fine, then there is nothing you can do if the ringlands are gone. Rebuild time, and be prepared to spend over $5k.
  7. can you post up some specs?
  8. at the moment it uses a Map sensor device. Its part of the kit. You plug a boost line into the map sensor and set your start and finish psi. Then it ramps the pump pressure up with the boost, for example, my Start PSI is 4psi, and my finish PSI is 22psi. So at 4psi, the pump is at 1% pressure, and at 22psi the pump is at 100% pressure. It scales up the flow. The problem with on\off switches is the car stutters when the water cuts in, and your putting the same amount of water in at all RPMs and boost levels. This can make the car a bit boggy when it does start spraying. Trust me, buy a decent kit, its well worth the $$. I use a Snow Performance Boost Cooler kit. Worth every cent.
  9. Just thought I would show you guys this. http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45059 It looks a hell of a lot better than the crappy FC-Edit. It even looks better than FC-Tune that doesn't look like it will ever come out. Have a look and tell me what you think. I'm trying to convince the guy to do it for the RB25DET.
  10. yeah I was considering it but at the moment I'm not working full time and need to save my money. I'm happy with this kit anyway, it hasn't failed and seems to do the job fine for me, it manages all that power without stressing the internals too much. The Map sensor one also had a solenoid just behind the water nozzle which pulsed like a fuel injector. Very nice water delivery. I can still remember the day I installed it - gained nothing until I increased the timing advance by 12 degrees. What a kick in the pants.. Massive improvement.
  11. I removed it all together and there is still a gap. And yes, my feelings are hurt
  12. Tings I learnt? A lot These kits are worth their weight in gold when it comes to power. Managed 314rwkw on the stock Exhaust manifold and 0.63 rear housing (GT3037). Couldn't get anymore power, even with bigger water meth jetting due to the absolute extreme limit of the standard exhaust manifold and the little 0.63 rear housing. Interested to see if the 0.82 rear allows me to run much higher figures. I can safely run 12.8:1 AFR's at 20psi of boost too. Standard ENgine so I'm being careful.
  13. awesome. I'd be looking at either the AFM or IAC valve. Easy to do.
  14. do you have an aftermarket Vent to atmosphere BOV?
  15. I shortened it but its still a bit there. I even deleted the entire title and it still leaves a gap
  16. I've tried to get rid of it but its still there. Is this a bug?
  17. looking on my wideband sensor - I think Gas likes to be about 6:1, I'm most likely wrong though. Check it out.
  18. omfg, fully sick uleh?
  19. f**k that was a good answer. Well done mate.
  20. hey mate, nice videos. Interesting intake manifold you have there, can you get some close ups of it? I'm going to try and get that map from my laptop for you today also.
  21. search my name, or cubes, and powerfc and you'll find the thread somewhere on how we did it.
  22. either that, or get a mate with a 4x4 or something decent to tow you there via rope. THat is legal isn't it? How far away is the tuning shop?
  23. sorry mate, but you cant. The car won't start. You need a hand controller to set the 555cc injectors, and the Z32 afm. All other mods are ok and won't have any affect when you limp your car to the shop. Can you borrow a hand controller from somewhere? like a mate? f**k if I knew you I'd send you mine to borrow.
  24. it has something to do with Cams and VCT. Even with VCT off, it can still be there. Strange, but common with RB25's. As above, something to do with cam profiles I think. PowerFC FMIC Full Exhaust 555cc Injectors WM Injection Q45 AFM Datalogit Wideband etc Apexi Powerfc. I've had it smooth before. like this older one: actually, there is a slight dip in torque there?
  25. its been on 18-20psi for over a year now, and AFRs on 12.5:1 and no less. (until I upgraded the fuel pump and they hit 10:1, the car ran like a disaster haha) The timing has been on 22 degrees on the full load row, I've backed it off to 19 degrees which drops the car to about 305rwkw. Just being safe as since there is so much back pressure in the exhaust manifold, I've got a little bit of detonation when things get extreme. Since I've backed it off to 19 degrees its showing no signs of detonation at all. Safer that way. Bare in mind that my base timing I don't think is at 15 degrees so that 19 degrees could mean more or less. What I might do is set my base back to 15 degrees and increase or decrease the entire map accordingly.
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