The Mafia

I can confirm all of this - I went through the same process with the turbo in my avatar. 10mm spacer, and longer studs \ bolts Either that or get the smaller 0.6 compressor cover. Putting a big 0.7 cover on a 3071 probably isn't worth it anyway. Will just make it lagier, and won't make naymore more power unless you are planning on pushing more that say 18psi of boost. I'm running a 0.6 comp cover on my 3076 (or GT3037) at 20psi and it works almost perfectly.

OP - Can you please be a little bit more clear on your original question? I will do my best to answer it. Your original post is very hard to understand I apologise for the other posts, just explaining the way the fuel systems works for the people that don't know, but just preach hearsay.

oh my god. You must not have a clue if you are still advising someone to use a FPR if they have a factory turbo. The standard injectors and FPR ARE FINE TO 230RWKW, the factory turbo will RUN OUT OF FLOW WELL BEFORE THIS... Why in the absolute hell would you waste money on a aftermarket potentially waste of time FPR? Tell me? Why do you need the extra fuel when the standard equipment will deliver it NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER? Do you even understand how this system works? Judging by your advice, you do not have a clue. People PLEASE don't listen to this persons extremely bad advice. You do NOT need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator for any power under 230rwkw on the factory injectors and turbo

actually smartass, I do know. The factory injectors and FPR are good all the way up to 230rwkw. Throw in 555cc injectors, a Nismo 275lph pump, with the factory FPR, and you are good for 330rwkw (as my setup is) The factory turbo runs out of flow at about 210rwkw. So you're running out of airflow BEFORE your running out of fuel, so why the hell do you need add MORE fuel, with a dodgey aftermarket FPR? I haven't seen an aftermarket FPR do it job properly yet, and I have seen 4 so far. All had inconsistant fuel delivery which made it impossible to tune. One run the AFR's are mid 11's, the next run without any changes they are in the high 13's... Swap back to factory, and everything is perfect. The factory regulator apparently doesn't need to be changed until beyond 350rwkw. Now for the rest of the mods - they are not a good idea to run with a FPR anyway............. Seriously dude, throw away the FPR and put the factory one back on, bend some signals, get about 190rwkw, and be happy with that. Anything more, you'll need a powerfc or other complete replacement and and a new turbo. The FPR absolutely does not need to be changed.

I'll answer your question with a question - why do you need to increase the fuel pressure in the first place?

to be honest, when you have the death rattle there really isn't any time left. I'd be turning the car off and calling a tow truck before you destroy your crank etc and it costs more for the rebuild.

do you have an aftermarket vent to atmosphere BOV?

What he said ^^ yeap, emanage is good too.

factory compression in a RB25 is 172psi. So if you have more you have a shaved head or decked block. Either that or they put different pistons in when it was built. But I have seen compression testers vary up to 30psi. My last one said I had 200psi in each cylinder. But they were all within 3 psi of each other so I didn't care.

ok first of all, learn how to type in paragraphs and point format to make it easier to read. I could barely understand what you were asking? Second, you're stuffing around with a fuel pressure regulator, which is the most stupid way of trying to get power out of a stock config. Sell the Neo, sell the FPR, and sell anything else that is completely wasting your time and buy a powerfc. This is a really crap way of trying to make power... Why do people persist in getting FPR's in stock setups??

lol I read the email and then the thread title had changed.. I'm like "wtf, oil will go all over the engine and start a fire?"

and why would you risk it by putting a crappy $18 oil in there?

not true 30 seconds is probably the most you'd need to drive steady for before turning the car off.

without being a troll - You don't really need a turbo timer. They are a waste of money, fuel and oxygen. Turbo's only take about 10 seconds to spin down to idle, so just take your time and don't up your car about 10 - 20 seconds before you get to your destination.

do you have a powerfc?

I'm not too worried, the most it gets to is 19psi before I hit 7,000rpm so I've just set my boost at that 314rwkw as a result.. With the 3.0l I'll definately be putting on the 0.82 housing though.

my 0.63 overboosts on the RB25 but I'm pushing 19psi and 300rwkw

hhmm... maybe thats why they stopped making these...

what a dodgey tune. Not sure how hard the SAFC's are to do though. I've done one and they are pretty basic.. Powerfc all the way!

lol, stock turbo flutter. Should hear it on a 3076 or 3540..Thats real flutter. When chicks hear the flutter or ATMO BOV on a GT3076 or GT3540, they get so wet they slip over..

rofl

ahh I see nah, 2 seconds won't worry it at all. I wouldn't let it go for any longer though

lol I love half english speaking people. The words they use crack me up. Won't be a turbo problem dude - sounds like a sensor issue. Will be easily sorted.

do the chicks come running?