The Mafia

well, I've seen RB20's handle 18psi ok (after market turbo of course) I'm running 18psi - 20psi with water methanol injection. RB25 should take 18psi easy as long as its not pinging. There are people here that have them turned up to 21psi, but I don't know how they went.

I'm thinking of changing them actually. But at least they don't go "WWWOWOOOOOOSSHHHH, HEY COPS, COME AND BOOK ME AND HASSLE ALL SKYLINE DRIVERS"

standard injectors and higher fuel pressure is a recipe for disaster.

here is what you are after:

hey dude The GT3037 is a garrett turbo. Mine has it stamped on the side. The model is 700177-5007 and ask for either the 0.82 or 0.63 XR6T style rear. My standard manifold seems fine at 300rwkw too. BUt aftermarket always have their advantages and disadvantages. Weigh them up. If you can make your own, then make a good one And yeah, sorry to say about the fuel pump, but sadly anything over 55psi from them and they run out of flow big time. (42psi rail pressure and I had 18psi boost. Didn't like trying to push 60psi.) Nismoid, I worked out that 300rwkw is 402rwhp. Is BHP at the engine or something? If thats the case, then the 3071 or 2835 should be fine?

Nope, they just don't have enough features or ability to do the job. Here is what I would do. 1. Two ECU options: a. GTR Powerfc, and Harness. Probably about $1400, and fully tunable by you or lots of tuners. b. Remapped RB20 ECU - not many options in regards to tuners, but they apparently do quite a good job. 2. Forget about the Fuel pressure regulator. Standard GTR injectors at standard rail pressure will scratch 400rwhp. (75% sure on that one, if not 400rwhp, then pretty damn close) 3. I think the Standard Plenum should do the trick, I know the RB25's support heaps of power (500hp) not sure on the RB20 4. The RB20 will laugh at 18psi. (AS long as its not f**ked already). Put 20psi into her 5. Go and find yourself a 3.0l bottom end, and hopefully one day you'll trip over a RB25DE head..

NEVER EVER skimp or guess when setting clearances, torque etc..

I'm sure a lesson was learnt I would never risk my internals with crap turbos like these

I'm using a standard one with the GT3037 and 18psi. Doesn't leak, works 100%

still using the standard return hose. We just modified the end that hooks up to the intake pipe, and welded a small pipe into the 4 inch intake pipe to suit. So the stock return pipe is exactly the same. Works 100%. I don't get any flutter or fully sic dose. The Pipe is more than enough to drop the pressure so the turbo doesn't surge. You can still hear a little bit of blow off through the pod, but barely at all. I will one day make a decent airbox so its completely silent.

rofl I'd go crazy if my car did that stupid shit all the time. I had a atmo once, tried it to see if the standard one was leaking, and my car stalled and ran like a piece of shit when off the throttle. Couldn't get it off the car quick enough.

Steel internaled probably means a high flow. As for the upgrade, first thing you'll need is a new fuel pump. My walboro 255lph (at 42psi) maxed at 280rwkw. I go the Nismo 275lph (at 70psi) I used a Garrett GT3076 (GT3037) and a 0.63 rear and made 300rwkw with water methanol injection. Extremely nice power curve. Here is my 300rwkw Thread

if you have good compression on all cylinders sounds like you have a blown turbo then. Time to have a look.

How about you just use the stock one? Mine is still there; and I have a GT3076 pushing 18psi - 20psi and 300rwkw. Doesn't bat an eyelid, and the cops don't care because they can't hear the engine wanking itself under the bonnet.

bump

ok easy one. Go to your turbo shop and tell them you want the 700177-5007 turbo, with the 0.63IW XR6T style rear. Exactly what mine has. (I'm running 300rwkw on a RB25DET - *My 300rwkw adventures Thread*

you'll be able to syphon more power out of a After market ECU and stock Turbo than a bigger turbo and stock ECU.

well, its hard to make the decision based on a few variables, but I will do my best to explain. The 0.63 rear felt about 200rpm - 400rpm less laggier than the 0.82. I will refer to them as "bigger" and "smaller". The BIgger housing felt more lazy coming onto boost, requiring more throttle to get going. And the powercurve was more flat. The smaller housing comes on relatively hard at 3200rpm in second, and hold that hard feeling all the way to the limiter. Its unreal, as you can see on my dyno. The torque curve is stays at its peak from 3200rpm onwards. Now thats what I like - a car that hold full torque (give or take 20nm) from early RPM all the way to the limiter. It makes the car feel like a large capacity V8 if the revs are higher than 3,000rpm. The larger housing I was more progressive, and the pull or kick in the pants wasn't as hard, and ddin't feel "full" until about 3800rpm, due to it coming on a bit, but taking longer to full get to its peak. Personally, I think you're mad if you don't go the 0.63, its not hard to work out how to drive it with that nice big mofo kick in the pants that KEEPS kicking you in the pants all the way to 7,000rpm. Hope that didn't look like too much of a ramble. Dale_FZ1, hurry up and get your ass up here so you can take her for a drive.

sorry, I came here via the link in his sig, not by browsing thread titles. Apologies.

hey mate, what CC are these?

actually, thats a really poorly thought out statement. The limiter isn't there to be smashed, its there to semi protect the engine from over rev. A lot of people don't realise that hitting the rev limiter is quite dangerous (if its a hard limiter which the stock ECU and powerfc is) - It spreads uneven power over the crank, forcing it all over the place. And in some cases, crank walk. This is very bad, I have pulled down an engine and seen what happens when you bounce it off constantly. Its not pretty. I've been down the drag strip 20+ times and out of 20 runs x 4 gear changes each (Total of 80 high rpm gear changes), I've probably hit the limiter less times that I can count on one hand. Its not hard. Just use your common sense. And no, its not an indication on when to shift. If you need a rev limiter to know when to change gears, then you should sell your car and by a push bike. You'll be right, just don't rev it past 7,000rpm anymore. lol or buy my Gizzmo interface (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t189545.html) it will plug straight in without ANY soldering. Can be used as launch control or rev limiter. Has a shift light too

I have 550cc Nismo injectors in my car. They are direct fit, have a 4 hole nozzle, and apparently have the best spray pattern out of all injectors your can buy for the RB engines. They should be pretty cheap now with the aussie dollar doing well against other countries. I'd look into Greenline, I've had crap experiences with nengun (orders taking over 2 months to complete) and greenline has always been very fast, cheap, and they quote their prices in yen so the good exchange rates are had. Some companies quote $AU and when the $AU gets stronger, they keep their prices the same and make more profit. Pretty shitty I say.

and here is the screen they will see

well, if you have a RB20 then your options are limited unless you get a RB26 Powerfc, and adapter loom and tune with that. Its very possible, and there are plenty of people that can do it (including me) Either that or get a RB20 re-map. Personally, I'd go the Powerfc and loom, and you have much more tuning flexibility (not many people can do RB20 remaps, and its a pain in the ass). There is a thread where Myself, Cubes, and Paulr33 got the RB26 GTR ECU working 150% with the RB20 and RB25.

Hey, you don't need codes at all. They are just check boxes that the tuner has to untick. Either that, or leave them ticked because the lock out options don't apply when you have a datalogit attached. You can't change them with the hand controller though, you absolutely need someone with a datalogit to make any further adjustments. Thanks for the good reference