The Mafia

lol at the problem. Time for a tune.

yeha you're pretty stuffed if you can't get a powerfc or Tunable ECU unless you want to get a remap. BUt they aren't exactly as easily tunable as a powerfc. www.justcars.com.au www.shannonsinsurance.com.au lol I don't know if they are the right links but you get the idea.

bump

ouch, my eyes

I installed a Nismo in mine, took about 30 seconds. Comes on a Nissan Factory OEM rail and plugs hoses etc.

dude, regardless of what anyone says, its the BOV. Either take it off or get used to it. Was there any reason to change the stock one in the first place?

this has to be incorrect... They blueprint V8 supercar engines..

amen, back pressure is the devil. Could be your Ventmo BOV, or it could simply be the tune. are you able to list your mods?

No, I'm 26. I learnt how to type, punctuate, spell, and speak in proper sentences. I also learnt how to use a dictionary and spell checker when in doubt.

I'm starting to agree with you. Its not much more to go forged and piece of mind. Agree; Will do. I'm not looking to spend a massive amount of dollars, so I am planning on doing the engine swap myself. I have access to lots of equipment that will make things easier. (Truck pits, crane, top of the rage tools etc) So I guess I'm lucky. Got some long weekends ahead of me though, lol. Hey, thanks for this little bit of valuable advice. I forgot to ask this question. So I definately need one? I'm pretty sure this pump is a N1 oil pump. Maybe its just a standard GTR one? Either way, its better than the RB25 pump. There are plently of people here (including family) that I can get to help me set everything up properly. I know what you mean by finding people that you trust - they are hard to find these days. We have a engine builder in mackay here that is known for building some of the best engines in the district, and he's family so thats going to make things so much easier.

I never thought I was any better than anyone else just because I had 300rwkw. I never mentioned it in this thread so why bring it up? I was only expressing my concern on someone installing something that makes the cops hate us more. I also don't care if you don't give a shit about my car. P.S - Learn how to spell, and add a few more of those animations to your sig - as there isn't enough there already.

bump

whoa man, you need to settle down a bit. I was only commenting in jest, its not like I was accusing you of stealing my idea or anything. Dale_FZ1 helped me select this turbo and we went through a hell of a lot of compressor maps and calculations to see how it would go. He's also contributed a hell of a lot of information to a lot of threads like these. I never realised that you had purchased this turbo before me, I simply thought that since you have posted this thread so long after I went this turbo route that you were new to this very decent turbo. No need to start throwing shit, we're all here for the same thing, and that is decent power and to help each other out. As for the spacre plate, I put mine there because I had a GT3076 with a 0.7 compressor cover before this current 3037 variant, and to keep all of my plumbing all in the same spot, it was easiest to simply mount the 3037 on the same spacer. The Custom 4inch intake and the pressure side of the turbo lined up perfectly. Saving a lot of time and money I guess. Robo - Keen to see your Dyno sheet.

yeah its still slow as hell on both ends. I'll contact Internode one day about it.

I have a few questions everyone. I have 2 x 3.0l 250,000km blocks (Both NA) (with cranks, rods, pistons sump etc) I'm confused. I want to build one with some nice specs (Forged pistons and spool rods) but I've heard a lot lately about how the Standard RB30 internals can handle quite a bit of power. (350rwkw). I have two options: Option 1: Standard Rebuild Deck Block & acid dip Get Standard pistons cleaned, and new rings Prep the RB30 standard Rods Nissan OEM big end and main bearings clean up the oil feeds and returns Set the compression to 8.5+:1 (I'd like closer to 9:1) Give her a hone if the bore is straight GTR N1 Oil pump RB25 Harmonic Balancer Rotating mass balanced Slap it together properly Option 2: Forged Build (About $1800 more) Deck Block & acid dip Forged Pistons (and whatever rings are needed) Spool rods King Bearings clean up the oil feeds and returns Set the compression to 8.5+:1 (I'd like closer to 9:1) Rebore 20thou more GTR N1 Oil pump RB25 Harmonic Balancer Rotating mass balanced Slap it together properly Then drop on my prepped RB25 head on: Ported intake and Exhaust (Exhaust will be polished) VCT welded and external feed Cube's mates cams Greddy Copy Intake Decked Extrusion Honed Exhaust Manifold GT3076 + 0.82IW rear at about 20psi - 22psi. Here are the main questions: 1. Forged Internals are lighter. I've read that 6 spool rods weigh the same as 5 x standard rods. Same with the forged pistons. How much of a benifit is this? Does this mainly allow quicker revs? 2. Standard Pistons. How much boost would I be able to run safely? Is this a limit? Are they as weak as the RB25 detonation wise? 3. Power Wise I won't need anymore than 320rwkw in the long run. Will the standard engine hold this ok without being on the limit like the RB25? The RB25 is a tough little engine. I compression tested mine a few weeks ago - copression still in the mid 160s all within 2psi - 3psi of each other. I want to take this engine out and sell it though to cover some of the cost of the build so no point it wringing its neck when its still in mint condition. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.

when just crusing around, go atmo, and pick up the chicks! lolololol.

look, I don't want to start a war, but could you post your mods? 270rwkw out of a GT3071 at 14psi sounds very far fetched. If I take my WMI kit away, I can only make 270rwkw on the GT3076 at 18psi. Do you run it down the quarter? Do you have a Terminal speed I can see? Its probably a good idea that we don't compare dyno figures due to this problem I see every day of dyno's being way to happy. It sounds like your dyno is happy by about +20rwkw. What is your torque? ahaha, in comes the twin scroll idea again. Disco, have you tested and proven this system yet? I'm still not convinced all the expense is really going to give you that much more power on the RB25\30 due to it already having a much larger engine capacity to get the turbine moving. I understand there have been average results on the smaller 2.0l engines, but I'm not convinced that it will be something that will work as well on a much larger engine like the RB30. We probably shouldn't start this into a Twin scroll thread though either. Cubes: Well, I just thought it might be a good idea to have that extra room in the wastegate if I am going to run 20psi? I'd like to push about 320rwkw in the long run (with WMI of course) but I am sure that the turbo doesn't really have much legs left in it. I'll have cams for sure though. What do you think the limits will be with a setup like yours? Probably with the boost up in its most efficient area (about 22psi) Lithium, well done though, Its good to see people making the same results as I have. All you need now is a set of cams an a water meth injection kit.

good luck...

lol at all you dudes that copied off my turbo setup - haha lithium you even went the spacer like I did. I don't care, I'm just saying. Its funny how I have set a trend Thank dale_fz1 for the extensive research on the turbo to. I just bit the bullet and tried it. AS for the boost creep - I have a 0.63 rear housing with the smaller wastegate flapper and I can run 18psi and hold it to 7,000rpm. I think I am doing pretty bloody well. I have a 0.82 garrett rear that I might have to send off to ATP and have it modified and I'll use it for my 3.0l block. Nice work none the less. These 56trim GT3076's seem to be the tits. Here is my 300rwkw thread for reference: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3100546

Item: Gizzmo Launch Interface (IGN Cut), Gizzmo Dual stage Shift Light, Adapter Loom for RB25 (will most likely fit a RB20 and RB26 too) Age: 3 months old Condition: Like Brand new Price: $420 To Fit: (What car) This will fit a RB25, but I am 90% sure it will also fit a RB26 and RB20, will check and get back to you. Location: Mackay, North QLD Contact: Via PM or email. PM for email address, or post in this thread. Comments: This works 100%. Used it in my RB25 GTS-T and worked a treat. I could make 10psi of boost with my GT3076 at 3500rpm in neutral. Shift Light setup is so damn easy, as is the launch control RPM setting. I have made a couple of modifications: 1. I have added the option of a clutch switch (this requires 12v power). There is even a plug that will plug into your existing clutch switch under your dash. 2. Adapter loom - This is worth $180 (part of the package). Its soldered all ready to go. Just plug it into your factory harness and set it up, and off you go. Also, this shoots some good flames when RPM cutting Please feel free to ask any more questions. Here are the pics: New, I paid $440 for the Launch interface, and Dual stage Shift light, and an extra $180 for the adapter loom. Then I spent about 2 hours making the loom up and creating the clutch switch circut. Thats a total of $620 plus labour to install this (could be nearly $800 after installation). I'm selling for $420. I'll shout postage. thanks.

there's my main point, and if you don't like it then I hope they find your noisy attention seeking BOV, and defect you for it.

ok no worries. So you're running an ecu with a map sensor that pushing over 350rwkw and more than 20psi of boost and has a massive turbo that requires such a blowoff valve? Refer to my point above. Either that, or you have needs to be a dickhead, and attract unwanted attention of the cops, and have them hate us skyline owners more? Its just pure f**king wank, no more. As I have said in many other ATMO BOV thread trolling, if you have a MAF and put a ATMO BOV on then you obviously want your car to run like shit, and think that girls get wet as soon as they hear it and will try and get into your car and get your fly down. I think its just as bad as all of these people deliberately trying to make their car "dose" The only thing that I will approve, is a nice big whistle if a turbo drawing in some air through a windowed compressor cover, ready to lay some rubber. All the rest is just un-needed wank shit, unless you are pushing big power and the stock parts can't handle it anymore. I'm running 300rwkw, with a stock plumbed back BOV, and it doesn't leak. Works perfectly.

hey mate Talk to Cubes, he knows someone that can get low mounts for the $450 mark. Proper stainless (3mm) I think. Check with him if he doesn't see this thread.

mine is the same, I'm currently looking for ways to quieten it right down.

uummm, put a nipple about 20mm away from the turbo output? Why would you need to plumb it in all the way over there?