The Mafia

I'd say a lowish 11 But once again, depends on tune and driver. there are a lot more variables to "300rwkw". Torque spread etc.

THis question gets asked about 100 times a month. Depends on these variables: 1. Your foot 2. Oil Changes 3. Oil Type 4. Tuners ability 5. Your ability to watch for knock 6. Quality of fuel 7. Temperature you foot gets heavy in 8. What kind of condition your engine is already in 9. The type of "fun" you plan to have with it

hi mine is better (lol) http://users.on.net/pacey/mapcalc3.xls The amount hit map is needed badly in these situations, what it does, is if a particular cell hasn't been hit or "averaged" more than 5 times, it will ignore the value. I had a lot of problems with this, certian cells would hit once or twice with a bogus figure and then the map calculation would remove or add HEAPS of fuel making some spots badly out of tune. This way you can't go wrong. I love these maps, they are awesome. Its kind of like a self tune.

they are crap plugs. Anyone that buys these plugs get suck in sooo bad. They probably cost about $0.50 to make. Get some BKR7E copper NGK plugs. I run them, and I run 300rwkw. They NEVER miss a beat. Cost you less than $20.

hey guys sorry I haven't posted yet. Its a Stainles 3inch+1.5inchWG system to the cat, then from there 3.5inch mild steel to a 4inch cannon and a 5inch tip..haha. Its very big. I was talking to cubes and he said the cat will need a pipe put through it, as this one is just "super high flowed" lol.

Hi Guys At the moment I'm looking at upgrading my cat because the car is a bit loud. Drones like a bitch between 80kmph and 100kmph. Currently Producing 300rwkw and looking at the 3.0l bottom end in the near future. Anyway, the current exhaust is 3inch off the Turbine, and another 1.5 - 2inch from the waste gate plumbing back in just before the lower bend in the front pipe. The Cat that is there has 3 inch flanges and is one of those "extreme flow through non restrictive" ones. Anyway, I've searched and seen a few threads about a few Different cats: Catco Metalcat SMB Xforce Does anyone have any recomendations for me? I want to retain power and get rid of this drone, and quiet the exhaust a little. Thanks guys

mine did this too with a powerfc and standard BOV. I cleaned the AAC valve and one day it just stopped. Its a weird one. I wouldn't be suprised if a lot more cars do it than people realise.

How does this work? Does it make the Turbo's laggier so that the compressors aren't pushing too much air before the engine is spinning fast enough to swallow it? Who ever did this is not proffessional at all. Maybe he could try this:

make sure you do the usual - Check oil Check Fuel (might be stale) Maybe let it crank 10 or so times before starting to get the oil pressure up? You'll need to disconnect your injectors. (one single plug)

if you have an aftermarket BOV, its that. If you have a Factory ECU, its that. If you have both, then its both.

you'll be looking for this one

cropping a turbine even smaller is a stupid way of allowing more flow

that blew me away. Very nice mate, hope it goes really well.

either that or get some stock rear housings and bore them to fit the wheels better.

that turbo has the wrong size rear housing on it. Thats what my GT3076 looked like when I bolted a GT3540 rear housing onto it (for fitting purposes)

sounds like ring lands to me. Might have been pinging a bit.

dude, I'd bleed your coolant system, or even flush it. Its a nice and easy job, will take less than 30 mins. Either that or maybe a blown head gasket?

yeap - they are big, laggy, and a waste of time putting one on a Standard engine running 10-15psi. 15psi out of one of these things is enough to push a standard engine to blow actually. Proceed with caution. What brand is it? Garrett?

not really, I don't care less You'll find there are so many stupid threads going up these days its getting harder and harder to filter through the shit. Several others hey? So your keeping tabs on my now? I find your comment on that hard to believe dangerman4. I'm over it anyway, waste of my time

Actually, you can all jam it, the thread starter especially. If you didn't know, there was a thread started by someone about 3 weeks ago, freaking out because "the lump of metal in the hole wasn't there anymore" The lobe of his cam shaft had moved and he though it had broken off, and I assumed this was another thread like this. Look at the pictures, the lobe has moved and looks like its gone.. Looked like the same thread to me. And Just for the record, I'm probably one of the more knowledgable people here. Just search my name and browse my threads.. Speaks for itself. But thanks for your dumb ass commet RPR33. THanks for the waste of a thread anyway, it was still an extremely stupid question. Thanks, and I was skim reading. I skim read more and more these days with the amount of really stupid threads going up.

omfg... are peope that stupid, and don't know what a camshaft is \ does? People that own skylines are getting stupider by the thread

This thread never got updated - I completed it (with help from cubes) and got the RB26 Powerfc working for both the RB25 and RB20. I even have a video of me driving around with the RB26 one in.

well, of course your going to run that kind of richness at that power and boost, but that kind of boost is probably too high? Have you considered looking at a turbo that provided more flow? Or maybe some cams? Remember, boost is bad, its a measure on how much the engine is resisting the air your trying to push into it. But if your talking 11.2:1 afrs, I still thats simply too low for even your setup. I'd look at 11.5 - 11.8. All you need to do is watch the knock, and I bet if tuned properly, there wouldn't be any at all any way. Its not the fuel (to an extent) you should be focussing on when you want the engine to last, its timing. Pull the timing out if you think its going to ping \ blow up \ be running on edge.

I know, but I just listen for knock in the higer loads. The Knock sensors on the RB25 are pretty bloddy good though. But also, a lot of people can't afford those $1k+ gadgets you use for listening to knock, and plus a lot require you to be in the dyno.. I just go by - Full load - around 20, give or take 5 Low load, 5 or below Remember, those figures aren't "knock" they are just a threshold. I've noticed anything over 40\50 is audible knock.

I disagree with that statement. I'd still run a flat 12:1, as any lower starts to rob you of power an is just rumming the engine too rich. If the car is overheating, then there is something wrong with the Coolant system. I'm running 13:1 afrs with water methanol injection. Engine sits at about 79 degrees after a few hard runs. I'd only go richer if its pinging and taking timing out doesn't stop it in that area, but I have never come across this so I don't you should either. this is what I run without WMI as promised: