The Mafia

just remember - The previous could have went for "one last boost" and cranked the boost up and gave the car a flogging before they gave it to you, blowing the head gasket. There are many factors in this, and I'd just be getting the head off for now and seeing what is wrong.

I'm most likely going to get a manifold done very soon, called a guy and he knows his shit, and knows how to do them properly (One runner at a time)

yeha I doubt its cracked, but you're going to have to pull the head off anyway to see whats going on. A Second hand R33 RB25 head is around the $500 mark, GTRS are about the $900 mark. Why bother spending $4k to fix one??

they are designed to be a DIY fit. Very easy. There is even a guide on the forum here somewhere. But yeah, very very easy, and you don't have to take your old covers off, you can install these over the factory trims.

this is 100% correct. Don't run anymore than 12\13psi

mate, the Head and block in the Series one and two would have no differences. Only the wiring loom \ ecu \ coil packs etc. So you've effectively downgraded the entire ignition system down to a series one, which will be fine. So a Series Two engine and head with a series one ignitor pack, wiring loom, ECU and coil packs would work fine.. Unless the wiring in the rest of the car to the fuel pump or something is different?

lol surely someone wants them?

The engine doesn't mean anything If you have a Series 1 ECU, loom, Ignotor pack, and coil packs, then it will be fine. You might have to think outside the square. Grab a multimeter and go to town! Tried a different ECU?

I'd be snapping this up! I had one of these and they are awesome. Make a wicked sound too.

confirmed. You can't just use any handcontroller with any powerfc. Tried between my later model Powerfc and a older model GTR one and the hand controller won't load. They are serial dependant.

I really like these rims. I have the cash, and need new rubber soon. I have a Silver R33 GTS-T Series 2. Reckon they'd look good on it? I'd need to have them posted though. Willing to sort that out with you. I'm relatively interested and are willing to place a small deposit if that means holding them, if I decide to take them lol, a quick Photochop..

will this link plug directly into a RB25 too? I'm thinking no..

Paul is right, is a waste of time trying to help this guy. Buying an ECU to be "different" is the dumbest thing I have heard since trying to run a RB30 crank in a RB26 block. Let me guess, you painted your car a special colour to be different too? Go on, tune your SAFC to run 260rwkw, I dare you. I bet you spend more money than a powerfc costs trying to get it to run properly. f**k some people on this site make me laugh.

well, think about it.. there is 42psi in the fuel rail to maintian the normal pressure behind the injectors. What about boost pushing back up the injectors? The fuel pump needs to supply 42psi to the fuel rail, and then another 18psi to "counter act" the boost. That means a total of 60psi, to maintain 42psi in the fuel rail. NOw have a look at the 255lph walbro in the chart I have supplied - as soon as the fuell pressure goes above 60psi, the fuel flow drops dramaticly. And yes, any turbo running 18psi, a T88 or a GT2530. Obviously these turbos would need different flow requirments as the engine with the T88 is flowing more air and require more fuel injector duty cycle (injectors are open for long periods) and needs more fuel flow. The Lower Specced walbro runs 255lph at 42psi. I got a Nismo 275lph at 70~psi. BIG difference. Higher flow at Higher pressure means the pump has more "torque" and can handle larger fuel loads.

omfg, you thoguht you were going to "omly" go for 260rwkw with a safc1? Your delusional. You're only option is a powerfc or other standalone ecu. I don't even think you'll be able to get a Re-map to suit that sort of power level.

yeah man, if you can lean the mixtures then you can control this a little better. BUT just remember its a factor of a lot of things. Removing that extra fuel helps though. I'm sure advancing the timing a little will help too, but watch for ping!!

holy shit, I just read this - this is madness. Your engine will die! You need a Wideband o2 sensor and also need to know what you are doing!

The pump shouldn't really be rated on power, but pressure. As you can see in the flow chart, the more boost, the less flow it will be able to push against it. Remember, the skyline rail is 42psi, and if you are running 18psi, then thats 60psi the pump has to push. As you can see, it runs out of flow beyond 60psi. But power wise, I wouldn't go anything over 270rwkw, and 15psi, as anymore will stress the pump causing it to fail early.

I'm glad someone else finally put you in your place and I didn't have to waste my time typing this. Beer Baron is 100% correct. Raff, your attitude stinks and if you were nicer I'm pretty sure people that did it themselves (not mechanics) would have helped. Pull the engine down and have a look - its pretty bloody obvious what will need to be replaced.

Mine didn't do this. I'd be checking Temp sensors etc, because there is no back pressure at idle.. Maybe its a temperature sensor out, and the car still thinks its cold? Clean the AAC valve? Do you run a Aftermarket vent to atmosphere BOV?

I'm pretty sure these units have the ability to change the airflow curve to suit a different MAF. Its worth reading up to find out. Got any links to the documentation on these units?

I'm pretty suer a SAFC accomodates the Z32 afm, and can translate the signal to the Factory ECU correctly. So I doubt you'll need a power fc. But you're going to get a better result with the powerfc anyway. Maybe look into selling your safc and getting a PFC anyway?

correct. I have tuned a SAFC and most of the tuning is done by simply taking out fuel. Most of the fuel takem out was 30% - which was alot. The car still ran richish afr's too. I didn't want to take anymore out just to be safe, as I had the impression that the fuel pump was wearing out.

GT-RS will be a 10x better turbo than the high flow. And with the higher compression (9.3:1) Neo, should spool nice and fast

no offence, but I have been there and done that, and the split design is a load of shit. It will perform the same as a whole pipe. Just looks fancier. The exhaust comes out in pulses, it doesn't "flow". So there is no way you can upset the "flow" of gases, as its already upset when it leaves the engine!