The Mafia

I'd go external, as I went internal on a biger turbo and now I am having boost creep problems. External is a much better way to control boost if you are planning to run more than 15 psi. And if you want over 250rwkw with that turbo, you'll definately nned to run more than 15psi.

factory ECU at 12psi is no good. Rich and retard

this looks good So you pull your factory chip out or something?

care to elaborate?

doesn't sound stock to me at all... Oh yeah, it just decided it was going to make 70kw more and run low 13's. I think there is something done that you don't know about.

In on this. I have one sitting in my garage

sell your old ones to me for $100

lol someone wants to be an attention whore. Just put a Vent to atmosphere BOV in it, some neons, and a big sign on top that flashes and says "cops, PLEASE throw the book at me"

you will get 236.5326rwkw, and 407.321nm of torque.

Because our mechanical expert genius R34NRG said so

They are ok, depending on what application. Wrong application - If you have a stock car, and just want to sound like a dickhead, attract attention, and give Jap imports a bad name, and think you're going to pick up chicks.

my turbo was making a loud screeching noise and this was because the Turbo to manifold bolts came loose and was blowing through the gaskets.

Almost for all claims If they defect my stock BOV - I'll take the ticket to The Department of Transport, along with my Engine manual and show them its from the factory. They can't defect it if its from the factory. Period. Why else would you put an aftermarket one on? 90% of people that put them on have a standard car, and want attention. I have a 300rwkw car.. I don't want attention! Plus I like my car to run correctly. These people have no idea that it f**ks the AFM readings up and richens your mixtures. Did you also know that a BOV sucks air in on idle? Stick your finger in there next time its idling. Also, there is no filter on this air.. So its dirty, and destroying your engine. Oh, and you say "just tighen it up" Whats the point of running one if its too tight to vent, and doesn't vent until 9,000rpm? Ah thats right, the tighter it is, the louder the whoosh when it actually does open eh? Not really. The Copper still heard it and wants to know what it was, and will assume you have one, and defect you. Even if its painted black, and mounted between your balls, and he can't see it, he still heard it. Overall - go for it mate! Fully sick uleh. The chicks will want your cock immediately.

I'm going to keep an eye on this. Is there a chance that this could fry my Splitfires?

Fit a GT3076 like I have done. (make sure its the same spec as mine) You'll get pleasing results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167572

rofl, another BOV thread. Stock one: Car won't stall Car won't backfire Cops won't defect you You'll drive around and sound normal After Market Vent to the atmosphere, whooshspinning twirly hurricane attention attracting one: Cops will defect you Cops will go harder on "jap" cars because you're another person with a big loud whoosh, trying to be a dickhead Car will stall Car will backfire Car will blow flames, cops will defect you Chicks will hear it, get instantly wet, and come running at your car wanting sex Everyone around you will immediately think your cool and want to be your friend You'll foul your spark plugs

how did you get it to power up from a usb port? Please explain this, as I'll be able to sit down and fix mine by simply plugging it into a USB hub or something, without having to get in and out of the car to test it.

hhmmm, interesting. Keeping an eye on this thread.

It could have been: Engine noise Could have hit a really cold patch of air Something might have rattled a backfire Rev Limiter Bad Fuel anything Even if your tune seems "safe" you'll still see a bit of random knock here and there. You can never stop it. There are too many variables. Just make sure that it doesn't happen constantly.

also, lol at anything above 11psi on the stock ECU

mine is doing the same thing. If you flex the hand controller a little (ie bend it either way) does it light up? If you find out who can fix it, let me know asap!

Excellent post - I totally agree. On another note, I drove DaleFZ1's GT2871 powered R33. Went really well off the line, and still had heaps of power to the limiter (6400rpm I think?) Between that and my R33 running 300rwkw, I couldn't notice all that much lag. It was more of a case of having to squeeze the throttle a bit more on mine to get it to spool a bit more. Power hit a fair bit harder, but thats obviously because I'm running 300rwkw, and Dale's is running 225rwkw. I honestly don't think twin scrolls are worth it when you look at the cost of $$$ just to make a bit of power in the mid range. In fourth grear, mine is producing 700nm at 3100rpm or there abouts, and holds that much torque until the limiter. Why would you nee to spend another $2k+ to get a bit more torque, and no more top end? I'd use the money on the 3.0l rebuild. Then you have all the torque in the world, no lag at all on the GT3076 56 trim and 0.82 rear, and yeah, a very nice car to drive. Just ask Cubes - aren't you making over 10psi in 1st gear? lol. Madman. I bet you wish that was a AWD..

Me too. I hope to GOD you aren't running that on a stock turbo. Anything above 13psi will destroy it.

I think you know the answer to this question. Of course its a must with a turbo that big!

I know this is an easier way out, but how about getting a GTR Powerfc and running that? You can get rid of the resistor pack, as the Powerfc will work perfectly. Just need a loom adapter ($130) and switch a few wries around (I've done it and can provide a wiring diagram) Sell all of your other gear, and you should make up half of the costs. I'm looking into getting the D Jetro RB26 powerfc to work with the RB20 and RB25, then you could throw away your AFM too.