NoFigJamHere

I'd also be worried were the debris ended up that caused the damage.. If you can get hold of a bore scope it may be embedded into the piston or cylinder head. Hopefully it just kept going on it merry way out the exhaust pipe. Its definately dirt,debris..Does the AFM still have the mesh in it?

You must be selling EARL's.......... As for Earl's in F1? I may be wrong as im not 100% certain that Mclaren or Ferrari dont use Earl's on their lawn mowers or scooters... As for used in airplanes etc i think you'll find that they use a similar type of system on pre 1980's planes... This technology went from planes to cars not the other way around. Earl's also sell predomenantly forged fittings which do not flow aswell as a tube/speedflow style fitting. Back on topic the OP should use a Mocal,Setrab or PWR IMO....

Mate how much oil pressure do you have when its cold? Also what pressure does the pump relief spring open? Ive had issues with coolers leaking/spitting above 100psi (7bar +) NEARLY ALL oil coolers/cores come from china now days as do fittings, PWR used to do the same (source from china) but after similar issues they are one of very few who DONT use chinese crap . One particular GTR busted a HKS an EARLS then a PWR (old type) then Paul Weel from PWR gave me one of there new one's and its been good as gold.. No i didnt lower oil pressure. Ive never seen an engine die from too much oil pressure!!! You should also use rubber mounts but im sure that not using any is not your problem. Earls maybe the oldest Co. But they also sell the worst designed fittings.. There's not a professional motorsport team on the planet that would use EARLS fittings even if they got them for free!!! BMRS,Goodridge,I-Core,Wiggans but theyre dear as F*&%!!!!

In most all professional motorsports ie: F1,NASCAR,Moto GP etc its a case of "If its doesnt say you CANT do it then you can!" IMO what will happen in this WTA event is some rich guy will build a correctly, turn up to an event do 3-4 laps, set a time 3 seconds faster than anyone and watch from his air conditioned transporter. Chris Eaton has/had this opportunity but again it looks like too much cash can never make up for bad advice.... I mean 500+K and he eats engines faster than Megatron!!! Oh and i wonder how much faster he would actually go if he took the entire body kit off!!!! Downforce is good, extra DRAG is really bad for a full bodied car.... The Lotus team/car is the smartest operator! He puts in W.Luff to drive.... Cheapest 2+ seconds per lap money can buy...

Wouldn't that mean that the tune needs to be a long way off to get any sort of real gain? What your refering to is closed loop lambda control and even STD GTR ecu's do this but only to a certain extent. Can i ask what your consumption was before and what it is now? If your getting about 13lts per 100kms its about right for your mods and power, if its 15+ its not good not only for your pocket but also your engine. Cheers

Just curious as to how the Haltech wideband dual controller kit will improve your fuel economy, surely it was tuned using a lambda sensor of some sort... and how much improvement/saving in fuel consumption you will/should get? Say it again.... nice car ;-)

Your crank wont be worn down dude, steel in much stronger than bearing materials. You really need to acurately measure the parts with the best equipment available to you. Plasti-gauge isn't my recommendation.. If your doing this type of job for the first time i'd suggest a machine shop does all the technical things so all you have to do is bolt the ancilleries back on.

Firstly very nice car dude. But after reading everything i hope GT auto refunded your outlay on the D-Jetro, shouldn't they have gone to the Haltech straight away? All too often you hear these upgade of all ready upgraded parts before a car even leaves a shop stories. Its great that it puts a smile on your face coz many times no matter what some people spend they end up bitter with results. Again car looks the goods ;-)

If we take the Nissan advertised 357KW at the flywheel and your "claimed" base line run of 262AWKW thats a 36% power train loss. So your 380AWKW on the same dyno would equate to 516KW at the flywheel!!! I suggest you race another car with similar power to weight figures and see how you go.... All to often the dyno results seem to differ to the bitumen results.. Hope yours isnt the case but it seems exaggerated IMHO.

To check pins you need to remove the piston and conrod assembly from the block. Unless the engine has over heated at some stage from what you've mentioned i'd be surprised if it was pins.. If your going to replace the bearings get ones that give a little bit more clearance, if using OEM Nissan get Bearing grade no. STD 0 (black marking) for mains and Bearing grade No. STD 0 (no color) for big ends (con rods). Thats the thinnest shells Nissan makes for RB26 ;-)

Also excessive piston to bore clearance (which u are aware is a possibility) can have those symptoms. How many km's/miles have you personally done on the engine? And how do you drive it? Like you stole it? Are pistons STD or Forged?

Mate i'd bet you've actually already found it!!! Your first paragraph says it all..... Noise is near cylinder 6? Spark plug cross threaded and more than likely not wound down to the seat on cylinder...... 6!!!!! You would have metal filings all through the engine if it spun a bearing. And if have actually looked at the bearings and they look fine they obviously are ok, when an RB knocks because of bearing trouble u would already have metal bits in ur oil....A gudgeon pin is another possibility, is there excessive or unusual wear on the cylinder bores on exhaust and or intake sides?

If your ECU has the ability to set/tune Engine Temp compensation and/or Air temp comp id say they havnt been set/adjusted and because you've not run the car in such low ambient temps the issue hasnt surfaced till now. Should be a relatively easy fix.

So does that mean every dry sump system is wrong?

Just had a similar issue with my 33 GTR, Shouldn't really sound like a belt thou. More like a whine than a squeel. Mine was the starter not dis-engagaing after starting for a second or 2!! Very embarrassing in public places.. All i did was removed starter bolts and pushed starter back enough to get access to the gear and put quite a bit of graphite powder on and behind the gear. After about 5-10 start ups all gone ;-) Dont know what caused it to be honest.

I think you'll find the base circle is smaller on the JUN cams which will make it look pointier (more triangular).

How on earth can you blame a customer if the engine is damaged by detonation? This is 100% ENTIRELY the tuners fault!!! Because the customer has paid the "tuner" so it doesn't detonate... Your saying that the customers expectations is the "Absolute biggest cause of detonation" is ludicrous!! Surely a tuner would just explain to a customer that what ever power it makes is the best he can get out of it!! The issue your refering to is when a workshop/tuner makes claims that once he modify's/tunes/builds the car it WILL make xxx power and then to try and back up the "promises" only to kill the engine!! And who takes 5 hours to re-tune a new turbo/injectors??? Oh n BTW if i had the OPs car on a dyno and couldn't figure out why its detonating i would b looking for another career the next day..... And i dont beleive the explaination the shop gave him is a truthful one...The car never had this issue before he dropped it into the shop..

You need to get your car outta that shop ASAP before they knock the bearings out of it (if it hasnt already) or worse... detonating in the top end = big trouble!! Its also the hardest to hear/detect so if they're certain thats whats happening i would be really concerned if i was you... To say they dont know why its detonating is reason enough for any person to question there ability. You need to ask questions like How timing have they put in at the point of det? What are the lambda readings at that point? If those questions arnt answered quickly and confidently then its obvious they dont know what they're doing.

+1 for sure... 1 bar at idle with a mechanical gauge = there is an issue. The oil your using will have an effect on oil pressure both hot and cold. And remember guys he's just had the engine rebuilt! That and the fact he has gone to the trouble to put in a mechanical gauge says to me that he's getting a very different oil pressure reading from before and after rebuild...

Sorry i see you've already done cams

Mate change the valve springs!!! Running the boost that your running is showing deficiences in std parts. You will thank me later... Amount of Kms on the engine and whether its been rebuilt would be interesting to know aswell. And anyone in here who thinks otherwise has never built a decent RB engine... The exhaust was the coorect move but i'd have gone 4" with 2.75-3" dump pipes. There no such thing as TOO big an exhaust on a turbo engine chasing power. Also IMO change the cams, if there dialed in correctly and the engine tuned correctly you'll love it.

R34's come std with N1 block...

Mate you really do need to get a timing light onto it ASAP or you'll end up doing some serious damage. My guess is that the exhaust cam is out if you need to have the cas wound around that far.

also i replaced my idle control valve completely so i wouldn't think its going to be your issue. Take DVS up n his offer ASAP