NoFigJamHere

Mate fact is if you say the "surface rust spots" cant be felt with your finger dont worry about it.... The important thing/part to look at is right on the crest (top) of the lobe...U dont want pits there at all.. Ive used 282deg 11.0m lift cams on a few engines and all being done/setup correctly theyre not that bad.

I'd be looking at air intake temperature myself.... The thing i will say regarding your "tuner" is he is obviously new to the tuning world, how on earth can you diagnose/advise/tune without reading lambda?

And NO you wouldn't take engine out.....

Depending on which Head Gasket you end up putting back onto it and whether or not the engine got hot which would cause the head to warp id say best case with cheap metal gasket around 1000-1200, worst case with say HKS Drag metal H/G under 2500, so long as head is re-usable (machinable) Other possible costs maybe s/plugs,oil,oil filter. If its close to cam belt change time its a good time to that aswell.

Hi guys, ive got some parts that ive accumulated over time that i want to part with.. New alloy surge tanks (2 off) all nipples are -6 male, 1 has a few more nipples than the other $100ea New RB25 OEM head gaskets (4pc) New RB25 OEM intake manifold gaskets (2prs of 2) H/G $40ea Intake $20a pair VGC cond Genuine Nismo AFM's with mines filter adapters (no filters)$500 New Tial 38mm Wastgate $150 R32 GTR Veilside rear wing and boot lid assy. Its a big wing!! $250 OEM R32 GTR fuel tank, no pump inside $50 New R32 GTR breather tank, goes between battery and h/light from memory. Has provision on side to fit level tube but not supplied. have 2 red 1 alloy $60ea R33 GTR rear wing centre blade. black $75 R33 GTR OEM mirrors 1pr white,1 pr dark purplish black? almost look black but arnt $100 ea pair Link ECU kit was in an R32 GTR $750 total kit. OEM 32/33 GTR exhaust manifolds $50ea OEM 32/33 GTR cams $50ea Have got loads more stuff to put on here, just gotta get my shit together. best to sms/text me 0488858885 and ill get bak to you asap. located on the Gold Coast, can send anywhere but at buyers expense.

I must admit most of my expeirence is with GTR's and when an owner actually "uses" the brakes correcty to stop/slow down as quickly as possible they should be activating the ABS... This is basically guarenteeing that the car is giving its all. I tell whoever wants to listen that Tyres or make that tyre grip hugely affects how well u scrub speed. Better brakes help you do it faster and repeatedly. Down force on the other hand requires speed to function, but we are trying to slow down... Also under heavy braking the cars nose dives down and the weight transfers to the front tyres. You obviously have know a fair bit and i also am just giving my own veiws be they what other consider right or wrong... Cheers

And BK why does the R33 loose 120KW and the R32 looses 180KW? Shouldn't they loose the same amount of power? Its not a % its actual power loss.... i would think a 60kw (100hp) loss on dyno with 4wd car would be more like it.

when this = this u really need these and Roy just wondering what downforce has to do with braking on saloon (full bodied cars)? And i really cant agree with brake upgrades not being required... Weight and speed will show weaknesses in inferior brakes

This topic really does remind me of just how old i really am... For those interested, when they 1st started racing the GTR here it used to take Fred Gibsons crew 6 hours plus to change an engine! And very soon it was almost every night at a race meeting. The problems many of us see today regarding the RB26 blocks cracking/splitting bores was alive and well back then. When Nismo started supplying the 24U (N1) blocks the mechanics were all of a sudden goin back to their hotels much earlier each night. I still remember the 1st race (i think it was Mallala S.A but dont quote me on that it was over 20 yrs ago!) and everyones worst fears were REALITY!! And as history shows that was only the beginning of total domination... They really did race most of the time with the hand brake on! (ie: not running flat out) and in the rain barring that famous bathurst debacle they were in Race A the rest in the B class. Funnyly enuff ive owned the same 97 R33 Vspec since 1998 and really cant see myself parting with it anytime soon. I have too many stories from that era and if i dont stop now my hands will hate me for ever... The fact was the GTR was light years ahead of anything else and if you ask me pick any HSV or FPV and put it up against a std 32 or 33 GTR and even after 20 years they're STILL way behind!!! 2 finger typing is so emarrassingly slow....

Mate i agree with your comment re:they dont get what your trying to do! And not saying people in here aren't really qualified to answer the questions your asking but i wouldn't take to much of it in. Just by saying its Made in OZ will get you attention due to the majority of Chinese made crap knock off's. I suggest you take a good look at an OEM RB26 intake manifold, there's something inside those a good eye can spot thats really quite trick,and theyre very good. ;-) as for power range/band the engine specs/mods and tuning will control 95% of that. Trumpets for each cylinder (if u can do and keep witin your desired budget) will help off boost response. I like the fact your having a go mate and good luck.

Have actually recieved the block?

Can you supply pic of ic front on please, any damaged to fins or core?

when your turbo's crapped themselves did oil go through ur intercooler? you may have residue oil in there that get pushed up under boost... another thing to check is decel fueling coz if its real rich it takes some time to burn all the excess away. What ECU are you using?