OLLIE_NZ

Hi Jimmy, Trademe is the best place to find race cars for sale in New Zealand. http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/categorylistings.aspx?sort_order=price_desc&mcatpath=%2Ftrade-me-motors%2Fspecialist-cars%2Fcompetition-cars http://www.nzv8s.co.nz/pages/12/bnt-v8s.htm http://www.psracing.co.nz/ have built 14 of the NZV8 cars And http://www.internationalmotorsport.co.nz/_Information/For-Sale.asp have also built a number of cars.

Let me know if you decide to sell the R33 Brembo calipers

Small update, Made some headway into the 'missing' coming out of certain corners at Hampton Downs. It's pretty basic but should be good for another year or two. Single Bosch 044 external pump, spare outlet on the surge tank for another external fuel pump in the future. Apologies for the cellphone pics, will post some higher res images soon. Surge tank Tow Hook, looks wonky but it's just the camera angle.

Ended up getting an email back from the coilover spring manufacturer Merwede This is what's written on our springs Rear 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98' Front '25 250 59 118' This is his email (I've added the conversions in red) Based on those figures fellas, as this is a circuit car we don't want progressive rate springs do we? What do you guys reckon would be ideal front and rear spring rates for the car, the two circuits the car sees are pretty smooth.

Hey mate, I'm dead keen on the Front Calipers by themselves if you end up splitting the gear up.

Looking good Coop, have you had the Alcons out for a race meeting yet? What size brake master cylinders did you end up with?

Hi Roy, our car has no ABS also, the rear pads are Endless N35s which seem to have far less initial bite than the PFC01s but might be able to run at higher temperatures for longer? The Endless pads seem to be quite aggressive on the rotors too so we're hoping that the Performance Frictions will be slightly less aggressive in that respect. Have you tried any Pagid compounds?, we were going to buy some Yellow RS-29s I think which are an endurance pad but the PFC01s were free so we though we'd save ourselves $450NZD

Did a bit of messing around with a set of Performance Friction Pads that I was given (01 compound) they we're off an NZV8 car so were very close width wise to fitting in the factory calipers. The chap literally has shelves full of them! They needed ~1.2mm machined off width wise, some slotted holes for the retainer pins and I had to take a few mm off the pad thickness as even second hand they are thicker than the new factory pads (15mm) Best thing about them is that they were free ~$450 NZD for a set of fronts new Machined the front discs down as they we're, and still are pretty shabby, plus we're changing from an Endless N35s pad to the PFC01s Messy job, the vacuum helped my lungs Took around .6mm off each end of the backing plate Slotting the retainer pin holes (~8x6.5mm) Done Bought some slicks too! Also bought a set of 4.3 GTS-4 diffs front and rear. Cut the front brake backing plates off too (figure they'll be going anyhow when we upgrade to a bigger setup)

Took the car out to an open day at our local track Hampton Downs on Saturday http://www.hamptondowns.com/ Here's four laps of me driving poorly (constructive criticism welcome ) Managed a 1:15.1 lap on the RaceChrono

Hey guys, Thought the Motorsport section would be the best place to ask about how to read the numbers on our coilover springs. As some of you know our car is a Circuit car and we are wondering if from the rough deciphering of the numbers printed on our springs if they are too stiff for the circuit? Are we correct with what the numbers mean below (we've emailed Merwede in Holland but have had no reply yet) Merwede front Springs read - (25 250 59 118) = 250mm length, 59mm ID, 11.8kg/mm (dunno what the first 25 is) Merwede rear Springs read - (250 49 98) = 250mm length, 49mm ID, 9.8kg/mm If we're correct with the fronts being 11.8kg/mm and the rears being 9.8kg/mm are these far too stiff? Who would you guys recommend as a good softer spring to buy and what rates would be ideal for the circuit? Currently we run HKS Hipermax III coilovers, Dunlop 240/625R17 slicks and Ikeya adjustable arms... Front springs they read '25 250 59 118' and are Merwede Rear springs , read 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98'

sven, the pic on the right is from my car. My fabricator to make one for you for $500NZD (a lot less in AUD) Probably less as you've moved the battery to the boot..........

Hi guys, As per the title I'm after a set of Brembo Front Calipers from an R33 GTR or R32 GTR V-Spec. They will be going on my R32 GTR I'll take the rears if I have too, but they're not really much of upgrade from my current R32 GTR rears. Front calipers would need to be complete with pad retainers and clips etc Not too fussed on paint condition as they're going on a track car Please PM me if you have something that might suit. Cheers, Ollie.

^^ Thanks Ben, not running the rear demister so all that rubbish can go

Did a bit of fiddling today with the ride height and made some adjustments to the hicas eliminator bar. How the car sits (from centre of wheel to top of wheel arch, 340mm front and 330mm rear) Should we jack the height up a bit more? It's easy enough to do as it's back up on axle stands Front: is just a touch over 4 degrees (still needs the wheel alignment, only half done) Rear Can anyone help me with the front springs they read '25 250 59 118' and are Merwede (basically unsure what most of the numbers mean) Rear springs , read 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98' (again unsure what most of these mean) Another question in the pursuit of weight saving, do we need the hi-cas computer? Does it have any effect on the Attessa system or any other functions at all? (obviously our entire hi-cas system has been removed) Lastly, this little box that mounts behind the red arrow, what is this and do we need it

^ Thanks for the help Beer Baron Willie (savant) did some rough height measuring tonight and the ride height of the car is 330mm all round from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch, we're wondering if that is a good ride height or not? Fitted all the new Ikeya gear Taking it for a wheel alignment tomorrow to get the camber, caster and toe sorted. Going to test it at an open day at Hampton Downs next Saturday (July 2nd) http://www.hamptondo...ircuit.htm#here Stock Nissan arms vs new Ikeya stuff Front upper arms are 15mm shorter than the stock ones Got the cut off wheel busy and cut off the rear brake backing plates Rear Front

Hey fellas, I'm hoping you guys might be able to help with some ideal starting figures for camber, caster and toe-in? The car is getting a wheel alignment on Friday and we're not really sure on a good base set-up for our car (circuit only) Currently it has a Cusco sway bar in the front, stock sway bar in the rear. HKS hipermax III coilovers Running 17x9" rims with Dunlop 240/625R17 slicks Ikeya stuff we've just fitted is: Front upper links Front lower arms (haven't fitted the roll centre adjusters yet) - adjustable Rear upper arms - adjustable Rear traction rod adjusters - adjustable It also has the Driftworks total hicas eliminator kit Solid subframe bushes with a 4mm spacer at the rear. Cheers.

This box arrived a few hours ago from Japan!

Thanks for your advice Brad, much appreciated Ended up spending a couple of hours on the lathe on Saturday making some aluminium spacers and bushes for the rear We machined up two 4mm aluminium spacers to put in the rear of the subframe. We're going to take your advice and make up a few 'C' shaped spacers for the rear of varying thickness's.

Ended up spending a couple of hours on the lathe on Saturday making some aluminium spacers and bushes for the rear subframe. Our factory Nissan bushes from the top of the subframe to the chassis measured 30.5mm at the rear and 28.5mm at the front with the subframe out of the car. The subframe bush kit we bought reduced that down to only 9mm both front and rear of the subframe We machined up two 4mm aluminium spacers to put in the rear of the subframe. We're going to take Riskings advice (thanks mate) and make up a few 'C' shaped spacers for the rear of varying thickness's that we would be able to slip into the subframe without having to unbolt the whole lot. 4mm aluminium washer for the back of the subframe Washers and spacers done Rear about to be tightened up (showing how the spacer slots inside the subframe bush) Rear Front Diff bolted back up with new Powerflex bushes

So fellas, currently in the workshop on the lathe machining 2 x 4mm aluminium spacers for the rear of the subframe. From our readings we've concluded that we want the rear of the subframe to sit 2mm lower than the front (which is what the spacers should provide. Any thoughts on this Brad? Cheers, Ollie.

Willie (savant) and I are hoping to put the subframe back in today but have read so many conflicting threads about it we still don't feel confident about how to space the subframe/ lower or higher at the front etc.

Hi fellas, Bear with me as I'm not sure how much sense my post will make. (I've done a fair bit of searching and not found any solid answers) I'm just in the process of fitting a set of Driftworks solid subframe bushes to my '94 R32 GTR. The subframe came out last night with little hassle and I spent the morning chopping out the old bushes so I could fit the new aluminium ones. Now I'm noticing a problem, with the new aluminium bushes installed the subframe is going to sit too high. The studs that hold the subframe run out of threads before the nut can support the subframe. Now my question is do I need to re-use the metal collars that came off the old bushes. not the ones that are pressed into the subframe but the ones that go over the stud on either side of the subframe. I have heard of people having to use a spacer, as even with the metal collars that came off the car it still sits 6-7mm too high (see pics attached). Quick drawing of the subframe showing the heights of the old factory bushes To get the car to sit at the same height I'd need to machine up some spacers that are ~15mm thick, making some spacers up is no problem as I have access to Cnc lathes etc. My question to you guys is, do I try and match the exact height that the subframe used to sit at or will it be of advantage somehow to have it sit a bit higher? Next question is to do with the diff, as we are replacing the factory diff bushes with Powerflex ones we wondered whilst the diff was out if there was anything we could do to it to help us on the circuit. I've heard about swapping some of the plates around (see below quote) and also read about shimming it to tighten things up (which I've read both good and bad things) Has anyone got any pro tips? Cheers guys

Looking really good mate, love the Alcons and handy to know they work with the RPF1s.

Selling price of ours is irrelevant to the topic anyhow...

Cheers for the replies so far fellas. I think the V8 Supercars used to do sonewhere between 55 and 57 seconds per lap around Pukekohe. I think the last time they raced here was in 2007 though. We're obviously trying to get what we can for the GTR as any seller would . Don't forget my prices I've listed are in NZD $$$