savant

From what I've read you'll be lucky to fit them with the standard front suspension (specifically the goosenecks). We run a 240/625/17 no problems, and I believe a 650 diameter fits. We run similar horsepower and the grip is great around the corners but a little bit tail happy on throttle. Cheers

Might help a little, on our R32 GTR with standard GTR brakes (so slightly larger pistons) we run a 5/8" front and 3/4" rear. This is with a Wilwood 6.25:1 pedal box. The car is a bit heavier than yours. We guessed to start and used 3/4" front and 7/8" rear which was too hard, but the smaller ones work really well. Have saved the bigger size for when we upgrade the brakes. Cheers

We went non adjustable after reading how rubbish most of the adjustable arms are for serious track use. The lower arms are adjustable at one end so we can fine tune camber with the lower arms and get a little bit more track at the same time. These arms being 15mm shorter run about 3 degrees static camber anyway, with the lower arms adjusted we are aiming for 3.5-4. We are waiting for Cusco to get the rear bar in stock (in NZ), should be available in about a week.

Hi Risking, Can you please PM how much your chromolly subframes are? We were discussing while putting it back together how it is probably easier to buy something from someone who knows what they are doing such as yourself, rather than us trying to figure out adjustable mounting points etc etc. We will probably pull the subframe out again in the next few months as we will be pulling the hub carriers off to finish rebushing them. Cheers

Even after all that i'm not sure what we're supposed to be doing! Is it fair to say we should be doing a 4mm spacer at the rear, nothing at the front? Given the 9mm lip on the solid bushes, this will mean the subframe is raised around 17.5mm at the back and around 19.5mm at the front? We can make up any spacers to suit so just trying to do "whats best" I guess.

$30k NZ is about $22k Aussie at the moment, so not far off the mark.

Hey Mate, do the Alcon's fit behind the RPF1's ok? I'm looking at a set of the Alcon's myself but was told TE37's are the go - I would rather run RPF1's as they are a bit cheaper!

Hi Guys, Ollie and I ended up buying some Ikeya gear to start with - Front Upper and Lower arms, Rear Upper arm and Traction Rod. We figured this was a reasonable start and will figure out what we need to add in the not so distant future (Probably the Ikeya rear lower arms, a Cusco HICAS delete [currently just running a bar] and then figure out sway bars/bushes etc). While we are installing the front upper arms, is it worth modifying the upper mounting brackets to "Nismo Spec" as mentioned by Risking? What are the adjustments that need to be made to do this? Cheers

Sorry, should have put in the important information - The car is an R32 GTR.

Good point, it was suggested we don't run the fronts (the 24/65-18's) as this is the light end on the Porsches.

Hi Guys, We are looking at running Michelin 27/68-18 (682mm high) slicks on all four corners. We can get these cheap second hand ex-Porsche cup (about $250/set). Will these be too tall? I gather the V-Spec's ran 225/50-17's which are about a 657mm rolling diameter, so we would only be about 25mm oversize. I assume the width is not such an issue, we are looking at getting a set of Enkei RPF1's in 18x10.5 ET18. We are currently running 24/625-17's which are obviously not a problem. We could also get 24/65-18's (also ex Porsche cup) and get some 9.5" wheels but would rather run the wider setup. Cheers for your help!

The good news is that we sorted the problem - Was some dodgy wiring in the steering column, new wires have been run to the fuel pump at some stage and had been pulled out of the loom. Unfortunately we started bleeding the brakes and wondered what the hissing sound was - Traced it to the handy hole in the rear brake line where a drill scraped the pipe... It never stops!

Hi guys, Just got the car back from being away a few weeks getting the rollcage finished off and painted. When we dropped it off it was fine, now won't start. Car is a 1994 R32 GTR, runs a Power FC, has a dodgy "Super Barricado" immobiliser with everything unplugged (this wasn't a problem before). It cranks fine and there is spark. The fuel pump primes but there is no fuel in the return line at the pump. Do we need to check this at the engine or does this tell us enough? Where do we start? We think everything is plugged back in and have spent hours double checking with no result. Is there anything obvious that would cause these symptoms? Could it be a dodgy immobiliser? Also, what is the computer that sits on the drivers side in the rear seat "door panel"? Thanks in advance for any help, trying to make it to an open day on Monday! Cheers

We thought it would be a good idea to do the sump with the engine in - It is possible, but probably harder than pulling the whole engine to be honest! Support the engine from above, take off sub-frame, pull gearbox apart from engine, take sump off and add baffle/extend, reverse. Not really as easy as it sounds

Roy is quite right, in the last photo you can see where our harnesses meet the harness bar (the eye bolts on the floor are for the "submarine" belts).

Tektrader - What size MC's did you end up with? No doubt we will be getting some new ones when we get the AP's but hopefully this will be OK for a few months. Cheers

Fair enough, I think the Pro ADV's must have a bit more cushion in the bottom than some seats. We were nearly touching the roof when we blocked them up to sit where the stock mounts would place them. The passenger side mounts (Targa one day!) are going to take a fair bit of work with the floor pan the way it is, but I'm sure we'll get there. Cheers

And height - with the Sparco's there was no way we were going to fit with the standard mounts. Had to chop down the Sparco brackets too.

Hi Guys, I'm co-owner of this car - to answer a few questions: Wilwood pretty much jumped straight to the 3/4" clutch, 7/8" front and 1" rear. We asked a few local guys and there was mixed messages, but a few confirmed this should be OK. We were a little dubious so are happy to buy another couple of cylinders to make it work, it's no big deal. The pedal box is 6.25:1. Cage is 4130, we thought we'd pay the little extra to save some weight - figuring most of the expense is in the time to build anyway. The cage builder is pretty experienced and came well recommended. We're going to have another chat about roof bars on monday, possibly a \/ kind of configuration could work. Thanks for the feedback - this is our first proper track/race car build so need a little help! Cheers

Hi Duncan, Thanks for the info there. Next time it will definitely be engine out but we are well down this road now so might as well finish! The car is a 94 and the rod on the clutch slave cylinder faces forward. From your description this means the pull type clutch. Any guidelines on removing (and reinstalling) the fork from the thrust bearing? Thanks for your help. Cheers