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R3N3

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Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    So I have spent a couple of hours trying to work out why the car wouldn’t start when I pressed the keypad button, even called haltech support (I wasn’t with car but had my tune, for them to see). Anyway, I just realised that my keypad is inverted and I haven’t taken that into account when I programmed the buttons. Real face palm moment. Engine cranks no worries haha.
  2. R3N3
    Yes, I have also heard the gktech fans are not the best. I have just splurged on an FPG unit, so hopefully that works out well.. The only other thing I can think of would be to go to an electric water pump, which would give you full control of flow at any vehicle speed. I see that PRP have a new RB electric pump that has been released. This is the way I would go when my pump needs replacing..
  3. R3N3
    So I got the engine cranked over, got good oil pressure and no more leaks! I need to work out the NSP software a bit more, as the fuel pump isn’t priming nor does the starter motor kick in when I press the programmed button on the keypad. However when I change the active state from high to low then they go (which is how I primed it). It’s not a wiring issue, as I can set the individual keypad state change when pressed, so will be a setting somewhere.. The engine bay is pretty much complete now before the fab work I dusted off the old coil/valley cover and trimmed off the old stand-offs for the igniter. My fabricator will fill the holes and tidy up, including smoothing out the cam covers (there’s a slight indent on the intake side one on the 20det covers). Once that’s done, I’ll get them painted. One thing I have been thinking about is the intake side and whether I source a factory air box and snorkel for that OEM+ look I’m going for... I’m only expecting 300ish KW’s, so don’t think it will be a restriction? Thoughts?
  4. R3N3
    So I thought I was pretty much done with the mechanicals, so decided to add add de-mineralised water to the cooling system. However, It wasn’t long before I heard a steady drip of water on the ground… bugger. A quick investigation showed it was one of the heater hose junctions at the back of the block. I contemplated trying to fix in place but I decided to just bite the bullet and pull the intake manifold off. Sure enough, I hadn’t tightened one of the clamps for the turbo water feed. Tightened that clamp and checked all others and then got the manifold back on. while I had the manifold off, I decided to do a bit better harness routing to tidy it up a bit.. The fuel system has been checked for leaks (there were none) and the car is now sitting with water and fresh Penrith 10tenths 10w40 oil. Once I set my base fuel pressure, it should be ready to crank for oil pressure and possible first start tomorrow.. somewhat terrified.
  5. R3N3
    So no major progress, just sorting minor technical issues.. Haltech Temp Sensor Wiring - it appears that not all AVI’s are created equal… I’m a real beginner at this stuff, but when I mapped out my wiring plan, I used the haltech wiring diagram as a base. Now what wasn’t overly clear (to me anyway) is that temp sensors need an AVI with a pull-up resistor enabled for them to function properly. After several hours of troubleshooting and searching the haltech forum I figured out why my oil temp sensor kept reading 120deg… now I just need to re-pin my AVI’s around for all the sensors to work 100%. IC7 Dash - there is just a couple of minor things that is holding it back from being 100% perfect… one of the main ones is the text boxes extend over the ‘bezel’ areas for some of the display boxes. You can see what I mean for my ODO below: the other is that the dash does not act as an I/O extender, so the dash AVI’s are not available to the ECU. However, talking with Haltech, both of these issues will be resolved in an upcoming update to the dash. So @Dose Pipe Sutututu looks like this might be best for you, as you’ll gain a couple of AVI’s to get your cruise control going…
  6. R3N3
    Haha, mine is nowhere near the calibre of some of the builds on here.. That’s the thing, I’m kinda expecting breakages in the 33 and that doesn’t phase me being that it’s now 27 years old. And when it does break, then I’ll even try fix it myself.. I’m looking at upgrading my ‘work’ car from a kodiaq to an RS4/6 later this year, then I can have the best of both worlds..
  7. R3N3
    They are also releasing their aircon kit for the 33 in the next week or two… I have been looking into a new condenser for mine and can’t get anything under $1k. I’d rather spend more and overhaul the entire system.. haha. honestly, I’ve had an F80 M3 and as fun as they are, they are so intimidating maintenance wise. I was always scared I heard a noise etc. and there was no way I’d try work on that car.. BMW gods are much worse on the wallet..
  8. R3N3
    They have 3x rubber tabs on each one that are pulled through pre-drilled holes. They are nice and tight. Quality is A+.
  9. R3N3
    Problem all sorted. Thanks for your help @Dose Pipe Sutututu. I had the “disable injector power when engine stopped” option on, which was stopping a +12v supply to pin A26. Turned the option off and all calibrates fine! also, the FPG shroud came: just waiting on some new Deutsch connectors to connect it up.
  10. R3N3
    Also, I’m wondering if this may be a source of my problem: https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35278&p=74212&hilit=350z+pedal#p74212 apparently the injector return current powers the dbw circuit. Now, as I have removed the fusebox and gone PDM (the injectors and injector return are now fed from an 8A HCO output), which I don’t think I have set this output up.. Their problem also seems Identical to mine. I will have a play in the morning and report back.
  11. R3N3
    What pedal do you use? From what I have read is different pedals can do things slightly differently… https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/ this site is saying the 350z pedal APP outputs should be different, which aligns with what I’m seeing…
  12. R3N3
    We’ll see about the anti-lag… it’s a stock motor (for now).. yeah, it’s so easy to chew up all the AVI’s and SPI’s! I needed the PDM for the additional inputs.
  13. R3N3
    Interesting! Thanks for posting this. makes me wonder how the pedal was able to calibrate.. maybe i need to try a different pedal? in other news I have decided on my buttons for the keypad:
  14. R3N3
    Yes, my TPS’ are indeed showing inverted voltages.
  15. R3N3
    I have just unplugged the pedal connector and checked the voltages supplied to both APP circuits with a multimeter. Both are getting 5v, so that rules out any of my dodgy wiring (to those pins anyway).
  16. R3N3
    Ok, I was just reading some googles that said they are offset.. I’m definitely no expert! I’m running a 370z pedal if that makes any difference.. thanks for your help!
  17. R3N3
    I thought they are supposed to be offset by approx 50% for fail safe? Would the pedal cause the throttle calibration issues?
  18. R3N3
    Also for shits and giggles I switched the pins for the motor + and - at the ecu connector to see if it made a difference. No bueno.
  19. R3N3
    Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though? below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running: its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position). to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results: It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration). thoughts?
  20. R3N3
    So, been playing around setting all the I/O’s and the only one issue I have is the throttle body will not calibrate.. it’s throwing a ‘P2109’ fault code.. will touch base with haltech to try sort. other than that, everything is good! All that’s needed now is to re-make the turbo oil and water lines (not happy with first attempt). Then I will double check all bolts/fittings before putting fluids in. a couple of pics of the finished interior:
  21. R3N3
    Wiring loom is now complete, with ECU turning on and no fires or fried electronics to be seen… The IC-7 is also working nicely with the indicators, screen dimming with lights on, park brake etc. all working nicely. All the factory vehicle functions that were patched in work nicely too! I have upgraded the ECU to the latest NSP software, started with a haltech R33 base map and am in the process of allocating all I/O’s and checking sensor tables etc. on its way from Brisbane is the FPG fan shroud and fitting kit, where I will run the 3000cfm SPAL fan via the PDM, which will replace the factory clutch fan. now just counting down for all the fab work then the tune..
  22. R3N3
    Maybe you should “invest” in the new PRP RB electric water pump… might also help the belt spitting issue..
  23. R3N3
    I have ordered the FPG fan shroud, so can provide a direct comparison against stock. I will be using it with the 3000cfm fan. I was originally running a thermo (with a proper shroud) using a hks fan controller, with relatively good luck. Only went back to stock as fan controller shat itself. Keep in mind I’m the kinda guy that cruises round the Bunnings car park, not the track haha.
  24. R3N3
    Bugger, I’m hoping I don’t get this issue..
  25. R3N3
    I have wired mine to pins B1 (sensor black wire) and B5 on the elite 2500 (sensor white wire), which is how haltech told me to wire it. Worth a try?
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