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R3N3

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Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    Haha, mine is nowhere near the calibre of some of the builds on here.. That’s the thing, I’m kinda expecting breakages in the 33 and that doesn’t phase me being that it’s now 27 years old. And when it does break, then I’ll even try fix it myself.. I’m looking at upgrading my ‘work’ car from a kodiaq to an RS4/6 later this year, then I can have the best of both worlds..
  2. R3N3
    They are also releasing their aircon kit for the 33 in the next week or two… I have been looking into a new condenser for mine and can’t get anything under $1k. I’d rather spend more and overhaul the entire system.. haha. honestly, I’ve had an F80 M3 and as fun as they are, they are so intimidating maintenance wise. I was always scared I heard a noise etc. and there was no way I’d try work on that car.. BMW gods are much worse on the wallet..
  3. R3N3
    They have 3x rubber tabs on each one that are pulled through pre-drilled holes. They are nice and tight. Quality is A+.
  4. R3N3
    Problem all sorted. Thanks for your help @Dose Pipe Sutututu. I had the “disable injector power when engine stopped” option on, which was stopping a +12v supply to pin A26. Turned the option off and all calibrates fine! also, the FPG shroud came: just waiting on some new Deutsch connectors to connect it up.
  5. R3N3
    Also, I’m wondering if this may be a source of my problem: https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35278&p=74212&hilit=350z+pedal#p74212 apparently the injector return current powers the dbw circuit. Now, as I have removed the fusebox and gone PDM (the injectors and injector return are now fed from an 8A HCO output), which I don’t think I have set this output up.. Their problem also seems Identical to mine. I will have a play in the morning and report back.
  6. R3N3
    What pedal do you use? From what I have read is different pedals can do things slightly differently… https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/ this site is saying the 350z pedal APP outputs should be different, which aligns with what I’m seeing…
  7. R3N3
    We’ll see about the anti-lag… it’s a stock motor (for now).. yeah, it’s so easy to chew up all the AVI’s and SPI’s! I needed the PDM for the additional inputs.
  8. R3N3
    Interesting! Thanks for posting this. makes me wonder how the pedal was able to calibrate.. maybe i need to try a different pedal? in other news I have decided on my buttons for the keypad:
  9. R3N3
    Yes, my TPS’ are indeed showing inverted voltages.
  10. R3N3
    I have just unplugged the pedal connector and checked the voltages supplied to both APP circuits with a multimeter. Both are getting 5v, so that rules out any of my dodgy wiring (to those pins anyway).
  11. R3N3
    Ok, I was just reading some googles that said they are offset.. I’m definitely no expert! I’m running a 370z pedal if that makes any difference.. thanks for your help!
  12. R3N3
    I thought they are supposed to be offset by approx 50% for fail safe? Would the pedal cause the throttle calibration issues?
  13. R3N3
    Also for shits and giggles I switched the pins for the motor + and - at the ecu connector to see if it made a difference. No bueno.
  14. R3N3
    Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though? below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running: its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position). to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results: It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration). thoughts?
  15. R3N3
    So, been playing around setting all the I/O’s and the only one issue I have is the throttle body will not calibrate.. it’s throwing a ‘P2109’ fault code.. will touch base with haltech to try sort. other than that, everything is good! All that’s needed now is to re-make the turbo oil and water lines (not happy with first attempt). Then I will double check all bolts/fittings before putting fluids in. a couple of pics of the finished interior:
  16. R3N3
    Wiring loom is now complete, with ECU turning on and no fires or fried electronics to be seen… The IC-7 is also working nicely with the indicators, screen dimming with lights on, park brake etc. all working nicely. All the factory vehicle functions that were patched in work nicely too! I have upgraded the ECU to the latest NSP software, started with a haltech R33 base map and am in the process of allocating all I/O’s and checking sensor tables etc. on its way from Brisbane is the FPG fan shroud and fitting kit, where I will run the 3000cfm SPAL fan via the PDM, which will replace the factory clutch fan. now just counting down for all the fab work then the tune..
  17. R3N3
    Maybe you should “invest” in the new PRP RB electric water pump… might also help the belt spitting issue..
  18. R3N3
    I have ordered the FPG fan shroud, so can provide a direct comparison against stock. I will be using it with the 3000cfm fan. I was originally running a thermo (with a proper shroud) using a hks fan controller, with relatively good luck. Only went back to stock as fan controller shat itself. Keep in mind I’m the kinda guy that cruises round the Bunnings car park, not the track haha.
  19. R3N3
    Bugger, I’m hoping I don’t get this issue..
  20. R3N3
    I have wired mine to pins B1 (sensor black wire) and B5 on the elite 2500 (sensor white wire), which is how haltech told me to wire it. Worth a try?
  21. R3N3
    This is what I was thinking, although may be out of my depth wiring/programming wise… I will add the necessary wires into my loom (and not bin the relays just yet) and then give it a go. At least it’s pretty simple to go back to the factory method. here is a snip from the R33 wiring diagram: this was a screenshot from the iPhone, so quality may not be the best..
  22. R3N3
    So while planning the loom fix for the A/C relay, I thought why not just ditch the relay and power from PDM? It will definitely simplify things and free up an output on the haltech. my basic understanding of the A/C system (based on vehicle wiring diagrams): - A/C controller sends signal to ecu (pin 46) - ecu provides 12v out to engine bay (pin 9) - 12v from ecu goes via the pressure switch (canister near radiator)? - pressure switch then enables A/C and auxiliary fan relays, turning on compressor and fan when water temp gets hot? Based on this, just simply running an 8A output to compressor would seem to bypass pressure switch, witch doesn’t seem like a good idea? I’d need to wire the pressure switch with 12v and an AVI to create a rule to then switch compressor on?
  23. R3N3
    Yeah, to be fair I stole the idea from @Dose Pipe Sutututu . The mount is great, it even uses the ashtray spring clips to hold it in place. I’ll get him to update his website to include it (if he hasn’t already).
  24. R3N3
    I didn’t see that. I found a crowd in aus called RB factory that make R33 specific ones:
  25. R3N3
    So I thought I had the loom 100%, then I went to hook up the AC relay and can’t find the wire in the cabin side of the loom (it’s in the bay side). So I’ll have to pull the loom out and find the cable.. otherwise I’m pretty stoked with the wiring effort (first time I have ever done any proper electrical work) . All tested up ok with a multimeter. Rather than buying a CAN hub through Haltech, I just chopped up all the CAN cables, crimped and heat-shrunk them to daisy chain all the add-ons together, here’s hoping it works… I bought a new turbosmart race port BOV to be installed, which is required for the hypergear warranty.. The most important mod this week will be passenger and driver side fire extinguishers. These will be mounted under the seat, on the rails. I’m also still unhappy with the turbo water lines, so bought some more AN fittings (I’d hate to add up the costs of AN fittings). car should be going to the fabricator in the next week for the folllowing: - full exhaust - I will be going for a twin tip exhaust rather than a big cannon, as i like the more stock(ish) look - all new 2.5” SS (I heard SS is better for heat soak?) intercooler piping, unsure if I will go silicon clamps or the plazmaman style clamps. If I go plazmaman I may have a delay as I’ll need to get the right TB adapter. I think the greddy intercooler will be fine for what I need - new 3” SS turbo intake. - a couple of minor cosmetic tweaks to the cam covers and coil cover (I run 20det covers, so want to remove the slight dip under where the TB used to sit and remove all mounts for the igniter etc on the coil cover). Should make it look nice and clean
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