R3N3

^^^ they were 18s i was looking at also

you might want to go 9" all round or 9"s and 10"s as they have the better offsets. if you gonna spend a bit of coin, make sure you get the fitment right.

lol if you wanna learn, read through threads like the hypergear hi-flow thread here. getting the right size turbo, you have to take many things into account: engine size target power how the car is being used. ie. drift, street, drag etc and many more use the search function, as no doubt its been covered before

How long is a piece of string? it all depends on the condition of the turbo, and no car is the same. some people probably run 14psi+ everyday without dramas (yet) and yours could last a day. 14 psi is probably the limit of the turbo if you want to flow more, get it high flowed. then you wont be warrying everytime you hit boost. ^^^^haha krzsiu, you must have post as i was writing mine.

dont really wanna be getting coil-overs just for the sake of it. im 6 foot 4 and its bad enough to get in and out of at the moment lol. it is lowered with low king springs and GAB shocks, handles much better now. where i took that photo,it makes it look like its riding high.

what about these

yep i agree, chances are the stockie has been in your car for years. just replace it now.

mate for the mods you have listed, i would probably go down the nistune road because its cheaper and easier. if your planning on building a 700hp weapon in the future, then a full aftermarket ecu would be the way to go. see what good tuners are in your area, and see what products they use/tune.

those are some pretty streched tyres lol, im running 235s on a 10 inch rim and running about 38.

what do you mean resorvoir cover?? got a pic?

mate if your playing round with the boost, make sure you have an aftermarket gauge. and dont forget some manual boost controllers are prone to spiking. its not worth the risk

Also if your running a full atmo venting BOV, try put the stock one back on and see if its doing the same thing. alot of people have come accross similar issues when running aftermarket BOV's

^^ you can use both, however the 20det ecu needs an external vct switch i believe, where z32 ecu alredy has vvt

have a read through here, it shows you how to rewire your pump to get the right voltage.

i remember seeing seeing a thread about how to retrofit your r33 headlights to projectors. i think the guy used e34 projectors, as he said they bolt in fairly easily. i know u can get angel eyes for the beamers fairly easily, so you could just put those units in have a search, heres one of the links i found check here

righto, i found the auction click here hes a member of our skylinesdownunder club, dont know if hes a member on here though.

theres a guy over here in nz making them front and rear, they look good and are waaaay cheaper than those other ones above (they do look awesome though). ill post up a link to them soon

yep, you seem to be getting it . the reason for upgraded ecus, is that theres only so much the stock ecu can do, it doesnt really have any capability for tuning. and it will hit R&R on quite minimal mods (intercooler exhaust etc). also one of the major factors is that it dost support uprated injectos (therefor not much fuel = not good lol), E85 tuning and better fuel economy even. the list could go on forever. have a search on ecus ie nistune link etc. you will see the capabilities these things have. just keep reading

i think it also depends on you BOV. some blow off valves come with different springs, which i think its so you can "tune" the BOV to your car, i could imagine that if you were running a bov with a 15psi spring in it on a stock engine will give you flutter, as the bov will only open slightly if at all. dunno if im right or wrong, just how i thaught it works

the actuator is the small can lookin item that sits next to the turbo (only on internal waste-gate turbos). the actuator is connected to the wastegate flap. if you discoonect the solenoid on your car and run it to the line directly to the waste gate (dont do this, just an eg.), your wastegate will open at 5psi. this is because your wastegate is only rated to 5psi, thus opening when there is 5psi boost. some cars running aftermarket internal wastegate turbos might have say a 18psi wastegate, which will open the wastegate at 18psi. a boost controller bleeds off pressure to the wastegate, effectively tricking the wastegate. this is why when you have a boost controller you can increase you boost pressure above the rating of the wastegate but you cant go below the rating of the actuator. hope i didnt confuse you

its located behind the seat, under the parcel tray just above the suspension, on the drivers side

yeah thats correct. also once you start doing mods ie. intercooler and exhaust, youll find the boost will increase by itself, because the turbo can flow more freely. while your running your car in stock form you may aswell do the high-boost mod, i did that to mine when i first got it, theres quite a difference that 2 psi makes! and if you get an electronic boost controller do not go above 12psi as your turbo will commit suicide (thats only the stock turbo). also keep reading on here if you want to learn, its a very good resource

i take it you own a r33?? your car has 2 boost settings, when your under 3000rpm (i cant remember the exact point) it runs at 5psi, when your past 3000rpm it then runs at 7 psi. there is a common and easy mod to earth your boost solenoid so you run high boost all the time.

check out this. i know its not local but its cheap

R33 from Hamilton