R3N3
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Everything posted by R3N3
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yup. I actually think that removing the starter control from the key barrel is likely to be more secure than most alarms. I think if you knew what you were doing, you could quite quickly bypass the alarm and hot wire the car. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
When I wired in the ECU I had a glimpse of a pretty bad car alarm install. The giveaway was the central locking solenoid wire was just passed through the door jam and fed through the door card… So today I set about tidying the alarm up and while I was at it, run some new speaker cable through the door loom (and plugs) for future audio upgrades. The state of the alarm: Im surprised my car never caught fire, there was exposed dodgy solder joints and just wires twisted together.. I contemplated removing it altogether, as the starter is now controlled via the PD16, so there is no starter wire at the key barrel. The new speaker cabling is a real pain in the ass to do! I will use the old speaker cable in the door and loom for the central locking actuator. photo of finished speaker cable install (just need to feed through grommet to inside the door). -
I’m also looking at installing audio in the 33, so keen to see what you come up with (as I seem to copy your stuff)… I was looking at one of those kicker 8” tube subs and mounting it above the fuel hat or maybe an under seat sub?
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100%.. it only accepts a composite plug, so I’m not expecting wonders. I’m also thinking a reasonable cable (that is shielded) will help.
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I got a freebie with my head unit but it’s pretty crappy. There is an alpine one I have my eyes on that has a bigger sensor but it’s quite pricey.. I’ll keep investigating and report back what I go with.
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Hi all, might be a bit lame.. but I’m after a recommendation for a nice hi-res reverse camera for the R33. I already have a capable Sony head unit with reverse camera input. Any recommendations?
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
The RB20 cam covers have been dropped off to get the slight depressions on each side filled in with weld and the valley cover is also getting shaved/welded up to remove the igniter mounts. Id love a set of the r31 finned covers but people want billet cover money for them. I contemplated the PRP ones but none of the aftermarket ones have provisions for a coil cover. Now I’m just tossing up what colour to paint the covers and whether I paint the intercooler piping.. -
Thanks. I did initially look back (I think I went back 10 pages) but I just found it on page 15. cheers
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Nice. Any chance you have some pics? I’m keen to try get my stock one in for some more OEM looks..
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I recommend the @hypergear . I run the hypergear ATR43ss2 ball bearing) and I’m at 320kw with full boost at 4000rpm (on pump 98). I also run in low mount configuration with wastegate welded to exhaust housing, so no need for a new exhaust manifold. Check my build thread for details. the noise of the turbo is also real nice. You can definitely hear that spool!
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How have you setup the stock airbox? I’m assuming there’s extra airflow to it?
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Day 2 at the track and the one thing that needs attention is the brakes. Under heavy braking, there was quit a bit of vibration and the steering wheel ‘shuddering’, maybe I warped the discs? I don’t necessarily want to do a full brake replacement (ie big brake kits) but was thinking of upgrading the discs and pads. Maybe DBA 4000 all round and some decent pads? -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Took the car today to its first track outing.. drove to and from the track (about 45mins each way) and gave it a good thrash on the track. The event was a powercruise type event, so got to race against a variety of cars and the 33 held it’s ground well. no issues whatsoever for the day and cruise control there and back was awesome.. Pretty stoked that Haltech invited me into their garage. -
We have pretty loose emission laws here in NZ and I did not need a cat to keep my car legal…. However I may look to install one in the future as I’m hoping it will also remove a db or two from the volume of the exhaust.
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Have you set up throttle blip? -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yes, I have my fan set against coolant temp, but I should also play around with a speed axis too.. I finally got the cruise control going today, it’s about 90% there. For some reason I had to have separate buttons for enable and disable. The speed also seems to drop straight after I hit the set button. I posted on the Haltech FB page (so dumb they got rid of the forums), apparently a PID issue?? Either way, it was very cool using cruise control in the skyline! -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yes, next on the modernisation list is the A/C.. FPG have released their R33 kits, so will acquire soon. also, FPG fan shroud and electric fan work amazing. Rock solid at 78/79 degrees. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Best thing is the wireless CarPlay head unit! I just need to get an amp and speakers. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Really good! The turbo whistle is much louder than I thought it would be. It’s so much rougher than I remember lol. Spending too much time driving the smooth Skoda with heated steering wheel and seats, 360deg camera etc.. I just need to do a road tune to get it 100% perfect -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
R3N3 replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
As of today, the car is legally back on the road! I really need to get my fuel level calibrated.. -
In case anyone wants to do this in the future, the wiring diagram is a little misleading. do not install the jumper cable between pin 3 and pin 22 shown in above posts. That just bypasses the light completely. Here is what i did: The resistor was a 470ohm 1W resistor.
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@joshuaho96 I think there’s something funky going on with the forums.. thanks for your help. I got the old dash out and measured the resistance at 500ohms at the resistor. I’ll try put something together to simulate the dash.
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not sure why the image wasn’t showing up in the post above.. Edit - i have reinserted in this post, however the preview isnt working, click on it and it works
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Hi All, I have replaced the factory dash with an IC7, however, for it to be road legal i still need to retain the airbag light. I have purchased a standalone airbag light (as the Haltech doesn't have this capability..), which will be placed on the steering column (in a 3d printed housing). the question i have is in relation to the wiring.. i need to now emulate what the factory dash was doing. The factory wiring diagram is: So, do i wire the positive side of the LED to pin 9 (+12v) and the negative side to both pin 22 (earth) and 3 (SRS ECU)? Am i right in thinking i also need to connect pins 9&3 with some form of resistor? I did electronics in school, but that was over 18yrs ago now.. so apologies if this is dead simple.