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R3N3

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Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    As of today, the car is legally back on the road! I really need to get my fuel level calibrated..
  2. R3N3
    In case anyone wants to do this in the future, the wiring diagram is a little misleading. do not install the jumper cable between pin 3 and pin 22 shown in above posts. That just bypasses the light completely. Here is what i did: The resistor was a 470ohm 1W resistor.
  3. R3N3
    @joshuaho96 I think there’s something funky going on with the forums.. thanks for your help. I got the old dash out and measured the resistance at 500ohms at the resistor. I’ll try put something together to simulate the dash.
  4. R3N3
    not sure why the image wasn’t showing up in the post above.. Edit - i have reinserted in this post, however the preview isnt working, click on it and it works
  5. R3N3
    Hi All, I have replaced the factory dash with an IC7, however, for it to be road legal i still need to retain the airbag light. I have purchased a standalone airbag light (as the Haltech doesn't have this capability..), which will be placed on the steering column (in a 3d printed housing). the question i have is in relation to the wiring.. i need to now emulate what the factory dash was doing. The factory wiring diagram is: So, do i wire the positive side of the LED to pin 9 (+12v) and the negative side to both pin 22 (earth) and 3 (SRS ECU)? Am i right in thinking i also need to connect pins 9&3 with some form of resistor? I did electronics in school, but that was over 18yrs ago now.. so apologies if this is dead simple.
  6. R3N3
    So the car failed the cert, however on really minor stuff: Exhaust is 1.9 decibels too loud (was 91.9db at 3200rpm and needs to be 90)- im just going to put a restriction in the exhaust to get a pass. i may quit down the exhaust long term, just want to get a good feel for it first.. I need to put a cover over the fuel top hat (factory one doesn't fit because of FPG top hat). ill just have to modify the factory one to suit. no airbag diagnostic light on the dash (as i now have the IC-7). i wish the IC-7 had more customisation here with different logos etc. but nope. I have ordered a little airbag logo light that i will install on the dash. I should have this remedied next week and finally be legally back on the road.
  7. R3N3
    Yeah, I will investigate this. also, I will be getting a flex fuel sensor, so I will be getting me some of that ethanol you linked! Cheers!
  8. R3N3
    As part of my cert tomorrow, I had to update the HICAS lock bar, as there is some picky rules re. bars with welds. This is why I bought the PRP bar, it’s billet with no welds.. The bar itself is great but I feel there has been little thought on the actual application. I had to cut 10mm off the thread on the arms to get the toe adjustment anywhere near right. They say they are bringing out new arms for it but who knows Wel hen that’s happening.. I should have gone with a gktech full delete kit.
  9. R3N3
    I think I have that but it only covers the engine. Unless there’s another?
  10. R3N3
    Fixed the speedo issue. Funnily enough, my settings were around 5221 pulses/km and I think that was calibrated at 30km/hr. Verified the speed with a shitty app that lagged heaps, so probably wrong still haha but at least I’m not doing Mach 2 anymore. played with the idle a bit, as the tuner had it set at 900. The DBW makes this super easy and super stable! I backed it down to about 750/800rpm and it’s rock solid! just need to figure out the fuel gauge next!
  11. R3N3
    Hi There, Can anyone provide a formal factory Nissan wheel alignment spec sheet for the R33? I have the engine workshop manual, which is obviously not in there, so i was wondering if someone here has the more comprehensive service manuals and would like to share that specific page? To get my car road legal in NZ, i must be within a certain tolerance of the factory spec. I just want to confirm what this is. Cheers
  12. R3N3
    It appears so!! I solved a lot of problems just searching on there..
  13. R3N3
    Yes, I did have the latest firmware, so I think that’s the issue! Also, no more haltech forum?? I joined that FB page too.. the fuel sensor issue on the IC7 also seems to be firmware related. For some reason the software isn’t updating it with the latest firmware…
  14. R3N3
    Thanks! Funny that. My cert guy was the one who said I needed 1… let’s see what happens.
  15. R3N3
    So I got the head unit all installed this weekend: Wireless CarPlay is the goods! I just need to wire up the reversing camera and the reverse input. I tidied All weekend I have tried calibrating both the fuel level sender (in the IC7) and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck. The vehicle speed issue means I can’t test out the cruise control…
  16. R3N3
    Haha got to have a contingency plan right??
  17. R3N3
    Haha. E85 is not easily accessible here in NZ, as it’s no longer sold at fuel stations (I think nation wide now). However… I have found a supplier who can ship large drums of the BP racing corn juice. I even wired in a connector for a flex sensor in the engine bay. I am just working through the legalities around the storage of the fuel etc. My limiting factor at the moment for more power will be my clutch. It’s a HD full face organic clutch, which is rated to around 300ish kw and 450Nm torque, which is where I am. I will start to assemble parts for my stage 2 build, which will likely be a RB30, so when it does go bang I have something ready to drop in..
  18. R3N3
    Here are the final dyno reports for each boost setting: wastegate spring (7psi): note that gate pressure sees the boost creep up to 12psi. 12 psi: 15psi: 20psi: Went for a quick drive up and down the street after the tow truck dropped the car off and man it is nice. The sound of the turbo, exhaust, intake and BOV is just so nice! The power feels so linear in how its delivered.
  19. R3N3
    R33 Rb25det unopened engine Greddy intake manifold 82mm Bosch DBW @hypergear ATR43SS-2 ball Bering turbo Factory exhaust manifold 45mm external gate welded to turbo housing 3 inches intake pipe Greddy front mount intercooler with 3” piping 3.5” exhaust (3” from turbo, stepped up to 3.5” at wastegate merge) 1000cc Xspurt injectors Haltech Elite 2500 ECU Tuned by Revolution Engine Services (NZ) Final result of 314kw (at the hubs) on pump 98 fuel at 19psi, hitting full boost by 4000RPM. IMG_1001.mov
  20. R3N3
    @Duncan @Dose Pipe Sutututu here is what the rules ask for. pretty overkill..
  21. R3N3
    Nope, needs to be a hoop. Minimum 5mm steel. I’ll take a pic later. But yes, it is odd
  22. R3N3
    That used to be true. As long as it vented to atmosphere behind the cabin of the vehicle. I think now that all exhaust gas has to go through a muffler also.
  23. R3N3
    Yes, any cert because of a power increase triggers it (a manual swap doesn’t).the driveshaft hoop is for each section of driveshaft, as the R33 has 2 pieces it requires 2. However, as @Duncan pointed out, the rear section (if I remember right) already has one with the hanger bearing, so i only need one for the front section.
  24. R3N3
    No, no emissions test and you only trigger the need for a cat converter if you do an engine swap (hence i dont have one). A catch can is a bit of a grey area at the moment, how i read the legislation i have to, but the cert guy says no, so who am i to argue... I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on.
  25. R3N3
    Plan now is to get it 100% road legal. In NZ we have to get the car certified for the mods. This basically involves a thorough inspection, road drive etc. Technically my car was already certified but it was not done with engine mods (just suspension), so things like the dash, keypad and wastegate will be a dead giveaway… we also have to cert the wheel sizes, so by me just going from 17s to 18s would also trigger a re-cert.
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