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R3N3

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Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    Video of the 19psi power run: IMG_1001.mov
  2. R3N3
    Tuning went well! Car made 420hp at 19psi at the hubs. Full boost by around 4000rpm. Base boost pressure is a nice streetable 10psi with 3 different settings up to 20 (via keypad). @Dose Pipe Sutututu, the tuner said he barely needed his big fan with the FPG kit, as it could hold it solid at 82deg through the power runs.
  3. R3N3
    Awesome, thanks! unfortunately I have misplaced the shims between the workshop and home, so I’ll have to just go with as it is for now for the tune tomorrow. I’ll order more shims and adjust the voltages myself. I did a final once over tonight. I pulled the injectors for an inspection, as I remember one didn’t go in so smoothly (my error). Turns out I bent the tip slightly. I’m not sure this is a major? no biggie, as I ordered 2 spares when I purchased (I like to have a spare of most things). Other than that, car is 100% good to go for tomorrow. I also purchased and installed the gktech bash plate, as I’ve always hated that the underside of the engine was exposed.
  4. R3N3
    Haha, I have taken the shim out just so I can move the car round…
  5. R3N3
    I have noticed today that the trigger wheel is just touching the sensor, causing a not so nice noise (which made me panic). Anyway, the kit comes with shims, chucked one in and it won’t start… obviously the sensor is now spaced too far from the teeth and can’t pick up a signal for the haltech. @Dose Pipe Sutututu and/or others with the same trigger kit, is there a setting in the haltech software to adjust the sensitivity, so I can space the sensor out?
  6. R3N3
    Thanks, though I did steel the design from you. I literally gave one of your pics from here to the fabricator…
  7. R3N3
    Very cool. I personally would go the 8HP over a sequential for a street car. Maybe one day???
  8. R3N3
    She’s back home now! a couple of pics of the final product: I think I’m going to go black for the airbox and scuff up the intercooler pipes and leave them raw. Tune all go for Wednesday.
  9. R3N3
    But with your scope of obvious performance parts (especially with a screamer pipe, they’ll hear you from a mile away), all they have to do is lift the bonnet.. another good reason to try use as many stock parts.. Skylines/stageas will always attract an extra look from the police..
  10. R3N3
    FYI it’s a 1981 Toyota starlet.
  11. R3N3
    I don’t think so, but I could be very wrong! the body lines don’t look the same to me..
  12. R3N3
    The car is nearly there, still on track to pick up tomorrow. Super happy with how tucked the exhaust is: It all is higher than the rails. intercooler piping will be completed today: Don’t worry, I will have an airbox. This will be another item that I have taken inspo from @Dose Pipe Sutututu, so will look very similar to his..
  13. R3N3
    it is a boost controller, however its controlled by the ecu. much better than a standalone unit
  14. R3N3
    yeah, i mean detailed everything adds up! injectors fuel rail fittings fuel pressure regulator fuel lines gaskets bolts/nuts oil and water lines new exhaust gasket turbo gasket v-band clamps sensors for the ecu (oil pressure, map, fuel pressure etc.) boost solenoid wiring, wiring tools and connectors oil coolant and many many more things...
  15. R3N3
    Only you can answer if its worth the expense.. Again, if you want to do it for looks and have the cash to splash, then go for it. I personally didn't like the look of the stock intake, which was my main reason to go front facing plenum (have a look at my build thread) ditching the top mount will definitely save you $$.. which will be better spent on a good ecu and tune. my advice.. plan the build and think of every part you will need.. i underestimated costs on a lot of things haha. i have easily spent over $20k and that's without a top mount..
  16. R3N3
    Obviously it’s all your choice, so if you want to be able to lift the bonnet and see obvious performance parts, then go for it and spend the many moneys to look the part. Otherwise, there’s some real good advice here to do things properly utilising as many stock parts as possible (note the stock manifolds will always be better than cheap Chinese knock off ones). I personally went a hypergear turbo in the stock turbo location and a Greddy front facing plenum for 300ish kw. I’m still spending thousands on fab work, so nothing is really cheap haha. Note than when using stock location items, you can generally get quality off the shelf kits for exhaust, intake and cooler piping, so minimal fab work will be required..
  17. R3N3
    DOUBLE POST
  18. R3N3
    Likely…
  19. R3N3
    Exhaust done: rest of the fab work will be done next week. Tune booked for the 17th
  20. R3N3
    Thanks, based on that flow graph, I’m assuming that’s what you have @Murray_Calavera?
  21. R3N3
    What filter sizes do you run in your 2 filters?
  22. R3N3
    Ok, out of curiosity what sort of micron filter is the stock-type one?
  23. R3N3
    ok, thanks team. its clear what i need to do! @Duncan so are you saying to have 2 fuel filters?
  24. R3N3
    Sorry, hopefully this makes it more clear:
  25. R3N3
    Is there any disadvantages to running a semi-returnless fuel setup (fuel return from fpr and only 1 line to rail)? It would really let me simplify the fittings to the rail (I would just run a centre feed). I’m only going to be pushing 300ish kW so I’m assuming it will be ok? For context, I’m running the following - stock hardlines with AN adaptors - GFB FX-R regulator (6AN one) - 30 or 40 micron (can’t remember) cartridge filter - EFI hardware fuel rail (8AN ports at ends of rail and a single 6AN port in centre) Cheers
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